Hello,

I am looking for a nice in stock condition, matching number 914/6
Thanks
Chris

Be patient - they do pop up occasionally. The key is to know exactly what you are looking at and be able to move quickly when the time comes. Personally, when you are talking this kind of money, I would not buy one w/o going to see it personally. I would make sure the seller has the ability to put it up in the air and allow a complete inside/outside inspection.

If they do not have a Certificate of Authenticity, you should get the engine, transaxle and VIN numbers and call PCNA and see if they can verify it over the phone. You need to know if it is numbers matching or not. Even if you don't plan to keep the stock 2.0 engine in the car (store it) you need to know that you have it or not.

Also, lots of these cars advertise low mileage since the speedo rolls over at 100K. If they are making that claim, and they do not have supporting documents to show it never rolled over, don't be sucker-punched by the low mileage claim as it may not be true. My car had 89K on the speedo and the owner claimed that to be the true mileage. Fortunately, the speedo and odometer both worked when I drove the car and he had a log book going back to when he bought the car in 1973 from the original owner and tons of receipts which supported his mileage claim.

My car appeared to be in decent shape when bought - heck I drove it and everything worked except the defroster blower motor. I could see it had minor rust issues present on the paint and a bit on the belly pan. I always knew it would come completely apart and be restored so I was not really worried about body work issues. My main concern was it was a real '71 914-6 and not some VIN switch car from the 80's. Also, make sure all of the unique Six parts are still with the car.

There are a lot of very sharp people on this site who know these cars inside and out. Please avail yourself of their expertise to avoid a potentially huge mistake. Most of all, enjoy the journey; I have.

Wouldn't it be interesting to know just how many unmolested, numbers matching original 914-6s are left.

For '71 I would guess fewer than 150 since so few were made that year.

Many thanks Folks, I keep an open eye, if I don't find any I might be interested in a very nice 2L instead, no rush as I am looking for a very nice matching car.

I will ask you first thing to check and confirm if it's the real thing instead of getting fooled.

Quite a difference between a 6 and a 2L 4......

Don't you already have a 2L?

I use to have one very nice 2L
Spotted a nice 6 on the Pelican it's a 6 in process of restoration, I asked for the asking price, should get more infos soon.

There are three 914-6s on eBay now. One very nice, expensive one. One that appears complete but looks like it needs restoration, and a 3rd that looks like an original driver in Alabama (green).

Better find one now. I bought mine last month and thought I had already missed the boat.

Dee

There's only about 10+ bhp difference between a 2.0 /4 and a 2.0 /6. The /4 has more low end torque and the /6 also weighs more than the /4. So there is a difference, but not much and it pretty much compensates and evens out.

The OG /6s are too overpriced now in most cases. If you're looking for a car to drive and enjoy, I don't think the cost difference for such little difference between the 2.0 /4 and 2.0 /6 is justifiable. It's more of a collector's car now. For a fraction of the price, you can get a nice 2.0 /4. You can also easily get get more power out of the /4 also. The simplest way is to do 96 mm bore and pistons (stock is 94 mm) and larger jugs. That will bring it up about 66 cc. There's all kinds of way to get lots more power out of it.

Also, ditto on the advice on the odometer. There's no way to know the actual miles of a car. The odometer can be turned back (mine was when I had my gauges restored). My previous gauges were not period correct anyway which is another thing. The gauges can be easily swapped out. So there's no way to tell.

Find the nicest example you can. Matching #s is really only for the uber collector who isn't going to drive the car but just sell it anyway to another collector. It's just a number stamped on the case. Hell you can change the case, change the insides, once you rebuild it and replace everything inside it's no longer "original" anyway. If you want original, just make sure it's a good, working, year and size correct unmodified engine. Have it run the way it did when it came out of the dealer. If you're a stickler for a number stamped on the engine tin, then go for it. There's always that appeal of being as original as it can possibly be. Once a car's been restored, it's no longer original. But you can keep all the parts original and have it to original spec. If you change out a gear for the same gear, it's not the original one but it is the same one and drives the same way.

Anyway, best of luck on your search! I hope you find exactly what you're looking for! Happy motoring!

I recently posted this one I found on the bird. It's a 1970 /6. The ad doesn't state if it's matching numbers or not. A COA and pictures of the chassis, engine and tranny stamps to verify would be needed. I wouldn't call it original because it's been restored (again, if they're original OE parts, then it is as it was when it left the factory, so in most cases restored is better for condition.). May be worth a look. Good luck!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-car...tml#post8597401

To properly restore one isn't cheap, especially if you do a ground up and.
And while certain 2.0 fours were built in fewer numbers, they still aren't "Sixes", those are the Porsches that won races, and have been winning races since the "Six" was introduced.
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Like the 356 Speedsters, the 914-6 prices are going to do nothing but continue to climb with matching numbered ones selling for big $$$. Course, at the concours level that mine is being done to, there is no way that I (as a driver) will ever really enjoy it, and with the price I'm willing to let her go for, when finished, she will most likely end up back in Germany(learned when I sold the really rough one, people over here do nothing but whine about the prices, while the Europeans actually buy them), but my 914-6GT clone, is the car that I'm keeping forever and will be able to actually enjoy driving, and driving hard. This is what mine will look like when she is finished.
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Yeah, B, but that's a /6 GT. Those are 2.5x the power of a regular /6. 250 bhp I think?

BTW if you want a PRIMO /6, BVD has a fantastic matching numbers restoration being done at Series9. No exoense spared. It's a beaut.

This one is about as good as it gets: http://www.europeancollectables.com/invent...e_inv_id=Po3207

I knew this car when it was here in Durango (until last month) and it is beautiful.

Is that the repainted and restored one that keeps getting flipped and going up for sale at a higher price each time?

Restored, yes, and won the restoration class at the San Diego Parade. You would be hard pressed to find a better six in today's market.

It has not been "flipped" previously. Has been with the previous two owners for about 10 years. It was in my care for a while before that. It originally belonged to a friend who passed. I had the car for a bit while I sold it for the widow.

It is this one here, we had discussed some weeks ago:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=252423

That is indeed a beautiful Six. It is a late '71, 0441, and as such, my understanding was, it would have the late bumper in the rear and not the squared off edge one that is likely a more widely recognized bumper on a Six. So, what is the deal? I was told by "experts in the field" that from mid-'71 production models on, the rear bumper was the later one. That, BTW is the bumper on my Six, not the the early one.

I would also like a definitive answer re the serial number located in the rear trunk. What was the correct location for a '71? People in the know, please chime in.

Damn, that is a beautiful Six. I wish the for sale add had more pictures.