Does anyone know which sprayable seam sealer best replicates the factory seam sealer used in both trunks?

Thanks,
rezron

I've never used it but this 3M seam sealer can be sprayed on using a special gun. I've just used the brush on stuff.

I bought that 3M stuff in the calk tube, but both the guy at the auto-parts store, and another 'trusted' source tell me to use the 3M Silicone II calking instead.

Maybe someone here can lend credibility/debunk that.

QUOTE (CptTripps @ Feb 18 2005, 09:42 PM)

I bought that 3M stuff in the calk tube, but both the guy at the auto-parts store, and another 'trusted' source tell me to use the 3M Silicone II calking instead. Maybe someone here can lend credibility/debunk that.

Doug, now that you mention it the seam sealer looked and smelled just like that window caulking, but probably 3 or 4 times more expensive. Is this just another ripoff?

It's all made by 3M, and to be honest, I'll bet they have made an improvement or two in the last 30+ years since our cars were made.

Especially on new metal, I've been using the silicone II. I get 4 tubes for the price of one at Lowes. I'm all for buying the 'right stuff' but when the mechanic at NAPA tells me to save my money...you KNOW something is up.

Like I said...there may be some secret-special ingrediant, but I'm doing my seams this way...

Cold-Galv paint over the fresh welds/metal
Sealer in cracks, crevs, and corners
Etching primer
Auto Primer
Paint.

I just did this last week. I never was able to find a sprayable sealer. I ended up with caulk tub and put it on in globs and never smoothed it out. Believe it or not it looks like the spary stuff. I am going to paint it tomorrow and I'll try and leave a pic once I paint it.

QUOTE (CptTripps @ Feb 18 2005, 08:42 PM)

tell me to use the 3M Silicone II calking instead Cold-Galv paint over the fresh welds/metal

Be careful with silicones, be sure to read before you use as some of them are NOT paintable.

All I use is SEM two part catalyzed seam sealer, but that's not to try and reproduce a factory appearance, it's just the best I've found. You've got to get the special gun to apply it, and it's not cheap at around $24 a tube, but it's the best that I've found.

Also be careful with the cold galvanizing primer. It is a very good thing to paint over welds, but it doesn't have the best hold out for finish coats. If it's on the outside of the body then I'd recommend using a phosphoric acid wash which will leave a phosphate coating on bare metal.

i always use 3m products when possible. The brushable stuff prob most closely replicates the original stuff, but its a mess to work with, get a long brush. I usually use the caulking tube stuff, and smooth it out w/ my finger just like doing a kitchen sink or something. I just did some on mine last nite after sealing up the newly welded door jams w/ POR 15 the other nite.