On my six , the oil temperature's red line is 150
( see pic) the car runs at 130 or below , I have seen threads where mentioned that 200 is the norm .
Am I running too cold ?
What am I missing ?

Two questions: Have you calibrated the sensor to the gauge ? This is easily done by removing the sensor, put it into boiling water ( a known temperature) and comparing to the gauge reading. Second, is the ambient temperatures in New York so low that the oil doesn't get as hot as in Summer ? I just drove from Huntington Beach to San Simeon for the WCR. My oil temp gauge read 130 the whole drive; it was along the coast and weather was overcast. Though for sure something was wrong. When we did a group drive inland to wine country, my temp jumped up over 180.

A dipstick thermometer can help verify readings too; Mainly by Design used to make a good one.

Those numbers on your gauge are in Celsius, so 130 is 266 degrees or way to hot.

The readings are almost impossible to read , I had to use my camera at an angle to Yale the pic in order to read them. With that, most relies on the drawing for reading , mid = normal , 3/4 =hot - depends on weather , then close to red =concerns , red = pull over
Why would the manufacture put the red line at 300? Can't you loose your engine at 300?

Yes, don't think 300 for very long would be good for any motor.

? How did you recognize it is marked in Celsius ? Curious minds want to know

It is my understanding that they all are? What oil temp gauge is going to have a 150 Fahrenheit red zone, that is to cold.

Yes you can get Fahrenheit ones installed...

They were made in Germany. Plus like the original poster said, 150F as a red line is ridiculous.

The small circle following on the upper right of the last digit indicate it is Celsius.

So now you know your temps, how often is your car at the 120 or above mark. I'd say you are running hot if that 120 dash mark is where your six operates unless on a hot day or traffic, or race track. I'd shoot for midway between the two middle dash's as the happy zone.

If you are typically running at 130C (266 F) that is too hot.
The engines can take that on occasion but the oil cannot for long and you should see huge drops in oil pressure by the time you get that hot.

I noticed it a couples times. As I can recall the weather was above 80 and it was after a few hours of highway driving,
I must say also that since then, I fiscibeted that the output fm that goes to the right side of the heat exchangers was not capped off as Ian not using them. I plugged them and have not driven far since.

Mark,
I thing no matter how you look at it F or C that red mark misleading if you are going by that to estimate your temps . F iir would be too cold, C would be too hot.

For reference. here is the temperature gauge out of the 914/6.

Click to view attachment

Information on the factory temp gauge scales for all 914s can be found here:
P914 Temp & Fuel Gauges

Whether you agree with the factory's determination of optimal operating temperatures for the various 914 engines is (obviously) open for discussion...

The red mark is at 264 degrees F. That makes more sense.

Yeah, I'd be curious what part number is on that temp unit.

914 641 101 10 is on the 914/6 gauge. I don't know what the OP's gauge is from.

My 75 1.8 F.I. Temp reach up to 250F ( dipstick thermo) during the last Route 66 mountain drive on a 90F weather, which the needle is at the Letter P of the gauge.

Click to view attachment

That is a good reference. It is also a hot engine... with low voltage.

IMO the best way to figure out a gauge without numbers is to buy a IR thermometer and use it to correspond gauge indication with actual oil temp from thermometer.

That's valve seat dropping temperatures (ask me how I know... )

I put my dipstick thermometer in boiling water and verified it was working correctly. Then you can read your dipstick after adrive and know what that correlates to on your gauge

I don't see how an IR thermometer can give you oil temperature unless you could shoot the temp of the oil in the case. Taking the temperature of the cylinder head is a good check; but, it's not oil temperature

I would suggest you talk to an oil engineer if you want real oil advice, not believe what people "think" is right. Oil in the bearings and immediately leaving the motor will run 250-295 in a hard driven motor. In a sump (tank or oil pan), the oil can hit around 250. A good synthetic (Amsoil, Motul, etc) can run that without a problem and without breaking down.

Now, what is too hot for your engine is a different story. In a type 4 with a stock sender, I always considered 250 the limit of too hot and like to run south of 225. In a six, taking temps off the motor, you probably want to stay south of about 250.

This is all from my experience and help from oil engineers, oil testing, and $8k worth of data acquisition.

I've used one in correlation with a dipstick thermometer (another good way) and I find that they are about equal plus or minus 5 degrees. Shooting the Oil filter, or on my 911 by the temp sender are good areas.

Truth I would hate to know what my ecoboost Fiesta ST oil temp peaks at, it would likely freak me out.