I have a 72 with a broken clutch tube. It appears to be broke in the front it looks fine at the firewall any help would be mutch appreciated.

Look at the attached picture........determine where you will need to cut an access hole in the tunnel (cut 3 sides of a "square" and fold up and out of the way. reweld the tube in place.......be very careful, there are fuel lines in there close by. After you have reattached the clutch tube bend the flap back over and reweld.......the clutch tube is the large one that goes furthermost toward the front of the tunnel. I have seen this problem repaired using the "no weld" method by using a screw down clamp over the loose tube, but requires a screw thru the floor....just not right IMO.
Click to view attachment

Thanks it looks like mine may have broke on that middle weld, will have to get a light and a mirror to be sure, but that pic really helps thanks.

Sorry I should have proof read that post.

plug welds...

My clutch tube was broken free at the front end.
i used tube clamp bolted thru the side of the tunnel, no welding needed.
A little blacksmithing was needed to get the curvature right, think my 3/8 socket extension had the correct diameter.

Click to view attachment

Thanks I can do that.

Thanks going to show this to the welder down the street.

If the weld penetrates the tube, you could be hating life. Plug welds work, but you have to be careful.

i've done at least 20 that i can remember. just rebuilt my computer so i dont have my data transfered yet but when i do, ill do a write up with photos.

the easy way out is more work and complications later so resist that temptation.

once the firewall rips, all 3 attachment points require correction. the tube has migrated and also needs to be in the right position prior to any welding

i go in thru the belly to fix the center bracket because it hangs from teh roof of the tunnel as seen in pylothyer's photo

the non welded clamp will work fine untill your on the 405 at 5pm on a friday in the #3 lane with a cement trunk behind you.

ps. please dont braze it

But brazing is the correction solution -- if it's done right.

Someone here said they slid an equal sized drill bit into the tube before the weld to prevent this. IDK, but remembered reading this.

Copper won't stick to the weld. So a copper tube or round bar will keep the tube from being plugged.

I'm faced with the same thing, although the firewall has ripped in my case. What are the three attachment points?

When you say you go in thru the belly, does that mean you cut the pan from underneath?

yes. i use a thin cut wheel. i cut along the ribs on 3 sides and lightly score the 4th. open flap. it closes up easy and i grin d teh weld smooth and you cant tell its been done
i am sorry i cant post pics yet. had to swap phones also so no time yet to get to my photos

the cut is made on the rib line. the circle plugs and ribs indicate position to make cuts

there is a short cut for teh front attachment point if originality is not an issue
i place a still "L" in the lower rib indentation. this can be done thru the shifter hole.
not an option if the fire wall is torn
tube position must be addressed if you want the cable to adjust in its proper/original range. the pedal feel is different if the tube is placed elsewhere

found these on an sd stick. done 15 years ago, yikes.

clamps, screws and 1/2 jobs here will fail eventually.

that weld job is rather embarasing but i hope these old pics help. i will have to post newer photos later to redeem myself

...just tighten that cable and stand on it! LOL.

Sean - would you enlarge the access hole if you were fixing the forward attach point or go in through the top?

I've done it with two small holes in the pan and a zip tie once. It actually worked great till I made a hole and welded it back in place a few years later.

The PO of my car used a U-bolt to hold the tube down to the tunnel floor. When I repaired the firewall, I had to include some reinforcement on the tube there. I left the U-bolt. It is holding tight.