So I am stumped. When I took delivery of my newly acquired 74 914 the car would start up just fine with a jump box.

I went out and bought a new battery and now I have no spark... at lest from I can tell doing the simple spark tests I have done.

I just did an Ohms test on my Ignition coil and here is what I got

Primary: 1.4
Secondary: 10.41

Per the Pelican Technical Article I should see readings like this:

primary coil winding's should give a reading of 0.3-0.6 ohms. Secondary coils should be near 600 ohms.

If I understand my results I am significantly higher than where I should be? But does that mean my coil is is the cause of no spark.

The only thing I changed was a busted fuel line and put in a new battery... Now the car will not start.

Any ideas on where else to look?

Thanks in advance

Cheers

Nem

Look for anything you might have bumped when changing the battery. Look for blown fuses at the relay board or in the fuse box under the dash. Look for bad connections at the battery (+) and (-) terminals.

--DD

Dave,

Thanks for chiming in! One thing I forgot to mention was the battery has been relocated to the rear trunk. I thought that maybe I disturbed the positive connections just enough to cause a short or dead spot.

For good measure I must redid the positive side connections in hopes that would do the trick.

Still nothing.

I just checked all the fuses under the dash and found two in a box on the drivers side just left of the engine by the firewall. Any other locations I should check?

Its odd as I've got power to the Ignition Coil, I just don't have anything coming out of it to generate spark to the plugs.

I read somewhere I should here a high pitch whine or squeal when I turn the key on... this lets me know that high power ignition is working. I can say for certain that I do not here such squeal. But then can't say that I have and had it running before the new battery.

I am really scratching my head on this one

So I decided to eliminate the possibility that the coil was the culprit... for 19$ it couldn't hurt in the process of elimination.

Not luck on getting it started though.

One very odd thing I did notice is that during a test I had the key in the on position. Was poking around for shorts and hope to here the something click on... I managed to rub my arm across the new coil and was HOT.. hot enough to burn my skin.

I can't imagine this is normal...

should my coil be burning hot to the touch with just the key on?

Could this be related to why I'm not starting?

Starting to really scratch my head at this issue!

Coil wire Check the resistance.

Which wire flash? The black wire providing power? What should I be looking for?

Also, is your response to why I have no spark or why the coil heated up?

Thanks in advance!

The 914 does not have a CD ignition which would whine when the power was on. Most 911s do, and the 914-6, but not the four-cylinder cars.

The hot coil is likely because your points were closed, running current through the coil while the key was on.

Here's a test: Unplug the (-) wires from the coil. Hook a spark plug wire with a plug attached to the coil center terminal. Tape the plug so the outer electrodes or the threaded part is grounded. Now hook a wire to ground, touch the wire to the coil (-) terminal, then pull it away. You should get a spark from the plug. If you do, the coil is working the way it should.

--DD

Thanks Dave,

I have been reading so much Porsche literature in the past few days it is possible I was reading about the 914-6.

I am betting my coil is working fine... it would be too coincidental for 2 coils to be non functional.

I will try the test tomorrow if I have daylight enough. I may not have time to even look at the 914 until next weekend due to full time work and school.

One test I have done is pull a plug, attach it to its plug wire and have my wife turn over the key while I ground the plug... NO spark that way.

Only thing left to go through is the cap, rotor and wires and possibly the distributor.

I'll be ordering a tune up kit tonight... it wont hurt at this point.

Any suggestions on where to buy? Would like to stay Bosch.

Found a complete Bosch Tune up package for a decent price. The only thing I noticed about it is that it does not come with the rotor with built in rev limiter.

Here to waiting in anticipation that a fresh tune up makes her run again.

After changing the cap, rotor, wires, points, condenser, and plugs as well as fresh filters and oil she finally runs again. Not the greatest, but I was able to drive it. Seem to be switching back and forth between the original coil and new as it would heat up and not start.

The drive was okay... needs suspension work and possible a transmission rebuild!

NO 1st gear at all. Goes into 1st well enough, but as soon as the clutch is released it grinds its self out of hear.... any ideas on that one? Is 1st gone?

The best part about today is getting it started. May not be able to drive it for some time.. but its a start.

Are you anywhere near Sonoma? If so, maybe take the car over to Mark at Original Customs and have him give the car the once over.

It's gone. Likely due to years of chronic mis-adjusted clutch cables. It can be fixed without removing the transmission from the engine.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...anny_repair.htm

--DD

Actually I am not far from Sonoma at all. 30 mins maybe? I'm just off Calistoga Rd in Rincon Valley. I may have to look Mark up and get some insight.





I have still not tried manually placing the car in first.... But I have messed around with the adjustment to where I had R, 1, 2 and 3... no 4th and 5th. I might be in luck.. but I feel that this car is going to see a lot of restoration and it wouldn't hurt to have a fresh 1st gear.

another quick question I have...

I put a brand new set of Bosch Super Plats, properly gaped of course and I could not get it to run... Put the old NGK plugs back in it.. which are gaped at .31 and it runs pretty good.

any ideas on that?

Appreciate the feedback!

QC on the Bosch Platinum plugs is... not great. I have had very similar problems with them. Back to Bosch Copper plugs, and all was well.

--DD

Dave,

That is disappointing news as these plugs came in a kit. I suppose this just happens.

Any suggestions on a good plug? The NGK's are working, but certainly could stand to be replaced.

Now that I know the 2.0 runs... and fairly well give the time it sat. I want to refresh the ignition system and fuel system.

Are there any places that offer upgrades?

appreciate the feedback.

Cheers

Nemi

Notes from my plugs research:

NGK BP6ES voted best plug for 914 (per Cap'n Krusty):
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=217463

BOSCH W7CC for carbs (then adjust heat range based on particular engine).

Reputable local 914 racer says you can use the Bosch 4 prong plugs #4417 but I havent tried them yet.

Replace the points/condenser with solid state ignition. Points/condenser are 1940's technology. Several options available; I've used Pertronix in several engines. Set
'em and forget 'em.

I am betting the NGK's I have now are what is voted best. Things runs pretty good with them for the shape the are in. Think I'll just get another set and move on from there. Thanks for the info!



I will have to look into this! Is this a simple bolt on type upgrade?

Any reputable places to buy?

Thanks a million

Cheers

Nemi

The cap'n will also tell you (and I agree), if you go to pertronics carry a set of old technology points and condenser and the tools to change them with on the side of the road. I changed to a pertronics way back when they were new technology. They left me stranded on the side of the road. I can install 10 sets of points for the price of the pertronics. I'm not saying that one is better than the other, just arming you with all the facts so you can make an informed decision.

I SECOND the above. I have had a couple of Pertronics units fail on me. Sometimes they fail slowly and sometimes suddenly. Be prepared to walk home.

Ive been reading a bit about this.

Seems some have had failures and others have not. I'd say that is possible with anything.

I just learned that I was only running on 3 cylinders. I discovered I had a clogged injector from the line side. Replaced the short lines and cleaned up what I could and now the 2.0 is running pretty well.

All that aside this car will not be seeing the road anytime soon. I'm learning the entire floor board will need to be changed...

If I'm going to get this restoration going I might as well get it ready for the hard stuff. Not that I imagine there is any other way... I was just hoping for something I could drive and fix as I went!

I am a bit discouraged as I do not have the resources to get started. I can weld and am pretty mechanically inclined so I have full confidence I can do this. Just need some specialty tools to get it going. The biggest challenge is a finding a Rotisserie.

I'm thrilled to death that I have a team of knowledgeable 914 enthusiasts to lead my way right here at 914world.

I am only 34 so I have plenty of youth to get this car new again. I look forward to the challenges as well as the rewards when I am finished.

Sorry this was winded... but I had to start somewhere.

Thanks for all your info as recommendations.

Cheers and stay tuned for some rusty pictures.

Nemi

Also for D-jet.




As far as I can tell, those are the same crappy platinum plugs with three extra electrodes welded on. Still crap IMHO.

The cheap Bosch Platinum plugs that you can get everywhere are pretty lousy. There are some very expensive ones that are hard to find that have a solid platinum electrode, as opposed to the little speck the cheapies have.

--DD

FYI,

The plugs that that came with the tune up kit are BOSCH W7CC.

For what its worth

Just wondering as I think I have the same/similar issue (914-1.8): What is an expected ohm reading for the main coil-to-distributor wire? Mine measures 589 ohms which, to me, seems a lot.
Thanks!