While preparing for a motor swap I discover a little hell hole starting its way into my 75/ 914 this week end. I knew the battery tray was getting thin and a few small holes starting. I may as well address this while I have the engine out...

2.0l with weber 44, cam, Kerry hunter 4 to 1, Malory, HI fire...Just a little set back

Not too bad. Take a look at the suspension ear for degradation. If it looks Ok, I'd use one of Mad Dogs patch panels.

Engine look great .................

Probe that hell hole with a screwdriver and dont be too gentle.

Engine looks clean! However not 2.0L heads so to make sure you are aware.
And I would put a mech oil pressure gauge on that port where you have the VDO sender when you first fire it up to verify that you have pressure.

People always find stuff in pictures, aren't they great?
2nd note on the OP sender.

It needs to be grounded, not isolated like you have it with the rubber or vinyl strap. I used an "L" shaped bracket bolted to the fan housing and a decent hose clamp wrapped around the body of the sender.

Might need a longer braided hose and mount it just to the drivers side of the timing hole.... see the fan housing bolt right there?

Great tips, Thank you. I do have a set of Mad Dog HellHole kit and a set of heater block offs on the way...

The tip on the grounded dual sender, I tested the ground trough the braided line and I do not have an issues, seems to be Good.

Dropped the engine tonight and got a closer inspection of the Little Hell hole, It is not to bad but will need the channel that holds the engines seal. Anyone have a good source for that? Its useable but rusted away in a few places.

I will blast the area a post a few pics before I start cutting

-Robert

Restoration Design sells just the channel in a 3ft section.

today removed the battery tray and saved the support. Bad news the sound pad rusted a hole in the Fire wall so i have to pull the back pad from the interior

Here is the battery tray removed

maybe you could just patch the hole in "the channel that holds the engines seal"

of course, new is best....


I used a wire wheel type attachment on a grinder and a shop vac to remove the

material on the back of the sound pad. didn't want to throw it away, just

remove the material that holds the water.

randal

My thinking too Jackson, I have my blaster set up and will start the clean up and rust removal next. The back side of the engine tray has rust and is thin where the fuel pump plug passes through ( if I had a pump there mine is a 75) So i may patch there too. But it looks like removing the tray( or part of the tray) will make the other jobs easier to get too

Nice engine! Good luck with the rust repair! Once I began grinding and cutting I found more rust........

Here is a good pic of the inside fender well and how it fits with the frame once the old rusted parts have been peeled back. One more blast of the inner farm and I will cut the inner panel and start replacing. This will be the trickiest of all the parts panels to replace.


-Robert

OH, this latest one cost me 4 stitches and a tetanus shoot and a short tip to the ER. Lot of sharp edges to hurt you if you are not very careful

-Robert

Here is a pic of the rust under the fire wall sound pad it was a little worst then first expected. I had to remove the interior to get to this one correctly but after the seam sealer and the patch it will last another 40 years

-Robert

other side

patch

Here is the latest fabricated 16g piece almost ready for installation Click to view attachment

How did you spot that it didn't have 2.0 heads?

Jeff B

2.0l heads only have 3 bolts to hold the intakes on and other have 4 bolts...Mine have 4 bolts but bigger valves ;-) Also the plug locations are different on the tins and heads for the 2.0l heads

-Robert

100+ degrees and still was able to get another hole fixed

100+ degrees and still was able to get another hole fixed

here the patch from the inside

Here is the Flux wire welds ,a little dirty but I am sure this is stronger then new not that it is tied to the long stiffeners installer earlier .

A little grinding, primer and seam sealer I think she will be ready for the engine tray, battery tray and the Jwest trunk hinge

Then Paint!

Here is a pic of the engine shelf replacement panel or 1/2 panel, ready for installation. The other part was solid and only the u channel for the seal needs to be replaced

test/trial fit

nice fit

another

next will be a jest hinge mount, the U channel for the seal and battery tray and LOTS of seam sealer

seam sealer and primer added to the U channel

Nice work!

Looks Great .................

Thanks for the encouragement and feedback. Been a great DIY project. I got a second coat of primer sealer on last night and will paint under the battery tray next. Then weld in the tray and seam seal and paint the right side of the engine tray and compartment. With a little luck and encouragement, I think I can get the engine installed over the holiday weekend. This little hell hole set back was a little over 30 days to fix. But glad its almost done and I did not wait...
+ =

...paint is dry and rubber seals are in place and fuel lines

Woot! just need to hook things up and get her running...

Nicely done!

I'm so jealous

I am going to call this part of the repair done!

Here is a .mov of the first drive in 2 months with the new engine installed mov

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nd6jgowlz6ko4cu/IMG_2218.MOV?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/eslws7ka70lsgcy/IMG_2219.MOV?dl=0