My car came with three fixed seat belts. But I don't trust 42 y/old seat belts with unknown history. So I want to change over to retractable seat belts. My MY 73 model already has the bolt holes behind the rear padding where the reel should be placed.

I think it's not wise searching for NOS & period correct seat belts. More modern aftermarkets items are my first port of call. But before I hand over the cash, what are the do's and don'ts.

As said: please educate me!

Menno

The later year shoulder reels incorporate little pendulums that lock the shoulder belt with sudden stops, so any non-OEM replacement should be so configured.

I got some retractable seat belts for my 914-6 and they seem to work well. I found them at Auto Atlanta (it seems others don't carry these). The retractors attach to the upper mount as is seen in the photo attached.Click to view attachment

If you can find NOS or good used, the period Repa retracting belts are fine. There is a company that makes modern replacements for our cars too. The next step past that is racing harnesses.

Here is the one most folks have been going with.

https://www.seatbeltplanet.com/seatbelts-an...ts/232/view/125

I think I'm going to spring for a set here shortly. My only hang up is that there isn't a cover on the reel. But we've bee using 4pt harnesses for about 10 years. They're a PIA.

If you install an aftermarket seatbelt keep in mind that the mounting bolts may differ in length from stock (even if the belt is marketed as a 914 seat belt). Specifically, when mounting at the tunnel on driver's side it's common that the longer bolt will interfere with movement of the shift rod in the tunnel and you'll wonder why you can't find 1st, reverse, or another gear. It is easily fixed, but it can frustrate you if you're not smart enough to immediately realize what caused the shifting issue.

And yes, ask me how I know.

That's all I got.

Oh that's a good one!

@GeorgeRud: that was the way I had in mind as well.

Then I looked and found that the padding behind the seat is 'stepped' and offers space for a reel to be mounted on the rear bulkhead. In fact, the holes are already there. So from there, it goes up to the spot where you've mounted the reel and then downwards, towards the side of the seat.

@cary. Thanks! I am searching for the European equivalent of Seatbeltplanet.com. You've pointed me to a nice way of comparing the ones they have on offer.

Menno

944 front seat belts install really easily, and Boxster seat belts will work with a little tweaking.

Will they fit an early 1970, 1971 without metal work?

Nope. The firewall has to be massaged to make room for the retractors, plus the back pad needs to be changed. That's why some have been using the belts that GeorgeRud posted--they fit an early chassis.

--DD

I called and asked about the difference between their 914-specific and their generic 3pt harnesses. They told me their 914 belt has approx. 90" of webbing. Their generic retractor contains 110", so I don't see much difference there. Then they say the retractor assembly is of higher quality. The difference is about +$30 per harness.

Next, their 911-specific harness sets are $40 more than for the 914. From all info I've read, 911, 924 and 944 harnesses will work on a 914. The only difference might be the length and format of the receiver (cable, flat metal, buckle, end release, sleeved or not).

There's a case to be made between OEM Porsche harnesses that appear in good condition, but are possibly 10-30 years old with unknown history and new harnesses. There's also a case to be made between vehicle-specific and generic harnesses. Save for the receiver type (buckle, end release), do 911s, 912s and 914s require special belts? Vehcle-specific is a nod toward OEM authenticity, and/or it could be simply another example of the Porsche tax. Many seat belt sources claim their generic harnesses meet US safety specs (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards 209 and 302). Some also cite SAE J386 specs. BTW, J386 - paragraph 5.4 states, "The color black is preferred since it is least affected by exposure to ultraviolet light."

There are generic harness sets available on the internet for $20/seat. At some price point, there could be some compromises in design, materials, manufacture and whose safety specs. There's also something to be said for US-made/assembled products.

This website seems to have a lot of b.g. information on terminology and installation tips (no affiliation)
http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/seatbelts.html

Sherwood

The newer 914's with the retractable seatbelts have a recession in the firewall for the retractable mechanism. If you don't have that newer firewall, than you have to opt for the ones with the mechanism holding off the top bolt like GeorgeRud mentioned.

Mine has the recession.

Menno

I'm probably in the minority here but i much prefer the early style non retractable belts.
You set them once for your gut size and that's it.
They hold you in nice and tight, especially if you like to do some "spirited" driving every once in a while.

I'm part of the minority.

I had early belts in my '72 and there is that advantage of set it and forget it. I spend 15 seconds or more pulling/loosening the slack in my newer retractable belts to get them right. Granted they should work better than they do but that is another maintenance story.

I don't think you can find the 944 belts new anymore. Best I could come up with was a NOS passenger side when I was looking several years ago.

Seatbelt planet is a good option. Do a search for threads containing the words seatbelt planet as their options have been covered pretty extensively here.

Seatbelt planet is where I got mine

I took my retractables apart, cleaned and lubed, and put them back together with new belts. Now they color match my interior

So I take it NOS early belts are not available?

The 944 belts do look cool and fit well. I may be able to source some. I have an NOS belt driver's side, and a '73 911 belt in perfect condition passenger side.

My firewall is Perlon, so they are out there for the world to see. I like them, they work and retract perfectly.

Another vote for seatbeltplanet here. They rebuilt the retractable ones for my '73 and I added red belts to match the car.
Have the B pillar mounted mechanism on my '71 like shown above. Not very "pretty" but they work, and aren't 45 years old!!

What did you use for replacement belts? I was going to clean and lube my "former" retractables and hadn't thought about replacing the belts and re-use the retractor. Clever idea

In my estimation, there are two major reasons the belts stop retracting correctly.

1. Frayed webbing material.
2. Chipping and flaking chrome on the guide rail.

I'm sure the spring looses a bit of force by now, but I think those other two aspects are MUCH more important. So getting the webbing redone and rechroming the rail should make most old belts work fine.

Chipping and flaking? You mean those things that are brown with rust are supposed to be chrome?

Yup!

You forgot what is likely the #1 reason:

Dirt.

Clean the webbing with something gentle like Woolite--you'd be amazed how much dirt comes out of them. They tend to retract better when they're not full of dirt.

--DD

Looks like I have a project for tomorrow!

Solved. I found a neat set of belts on the shelf of a local motorfactors. It's originally an aftermarket set for the rear seats of a family saloon. They were on the shelf for ages (really been gathering dust - it felt like the History Channel's American Pickers!).

The guy behind the counter handed me the pair and told me to give it a try. And come back to pay them only after I'd tested them on the car.

Sets me back 90 euros.

Menno

Two pics:

The local auto upholstery supplier sells webbing in various colors, but has to be sewn with a commercial strength machine.

I took the rear belts and front buckles with hardware from a parted Infiniti J30. The dark brown bolt covers came off a Pathfinder/Hardbody. All the bolt sizes matched so it was easy.

Looks very nice! Is there a Nissan salvage yard near you?

Bolt sizes are standardized--they're not even metric, in fact.

--DD

The two pic-a-part locations average around 60 Nissans at any time.
Mainly, I've owned a few Nissans and have worked on many more. I find the engineering is pretty good and straight forward, plus all the vehicles in a given decade share part design.
I bought the J30 wrecked for the drivetrain and put the rest of the good stuff in boxes until I found a use or sold them. The gauge cluster fits better than the 300zx I originally installed so I swapped it. Their bolts are really nice too.


7/16-20 by suprise. I discovered that cleaning out a double threaded nut. The shoulder was a different diameter so I had to use the J30 hardware.