I found these on Ebay for $49.99. Thinking of going this way and not having to mess with the shift coupler again. Has anybody tried these yet?

What's the advantage over Delrin?

I had similar custom made about 20 yrs ago

- they'll never wear out (so long as your shift rod does not have any side load on it)

? i don't see how this eliminates coupler issues ??

The fact that yours have lasted 20 years is what I was trying to say. You did the job once and you were through.

Yes and No,

Yes, they are great and will likely never wear out.

No, because they should be made undersize then reamed to fit, the stock shaft tolerances are all over the place the bronze bushing should have a tight tolerance to make this a worth while endeavour.

BTW just looking at it I'm pretty sure that is not bronze, it's brass.

Corrected title. Manufacturer claims tight tolerances.

I installed these a month ago or so, and I can say that getting that pin out of the shift coupler housing was one of the more challenging things I've had to do. It had to be done, though, as the previous bushing had disintegrated completely. Getting that pin out required a lot of PB blaster, a lot of heat, and a big ol' cheater bar.

The tolerances are tight. One side went it relatively easily after putting it in the freezer for a few hours. The other required repeated light sanding of the coupler housing to get the bushing in (as per mfr's instructions). I believe it's in there pretty firmly and I hope I never have to do it again

Click to view attachment

you know what makes that whole job easier? A shop press.

Just consider this.
How long did the original bushings last? 40 years?

Those are not the bushings I would worry about, I thought you meant the firewall or console bushings.

I had a customer call in to Pelican who cracked two couplers after installing the brass bushings. Seemed to know what he was doing. They cracked afyer they were installed but before he coyld get them in the car. Checked ID of the coupler and OD of the bushings and they had enought difference that it should have worked. He is reworking the bushings to mske them a slip fit. A vise, a bolt and a socket are all that is needed to remove and install the pin.

I agree with bdstone, a shop vise, socket, and bolt are sufficient and easy to use to do this job.
Brass bushing in this position needs to be snug in the coupler while the pin needs to be snug in the coupler and have a slight clearance in the brass bushing. There does need to be slight movement of the coupler pin in the bushing.
I chose Delrin when I replaced mine years ago. Main reason was I could not get any oillight material. Oillight looks like brass with a dull finish, but is impregnated with a lubricant. Many years ago many manufacturers used oillight as bushings but changed to Delrin about 20 years ago. Hardly ever see any oillight bushings anymore. I probably spelled oillight incorrectly.
Tom

THOMAS made a set for me as well as for the rear console. Only have about 4k miles on them now, but they'll probably last my lifetime

That's how I did it, but I can say for me, at least, it was a biatch. Mine was pretty well rusted together and didn't want to budge even after soaking the entire assembly in PB Blaster for several days and using a cheater bar on the vice. Maybe I'm the only one that's found that difficult Maybe I should have tried a little tenderness...