Some of you may have read my earlier thread where I described the engine would not restart..
Well I checked out the wiring harnesses at the brain end and everything checked out.
I have ordered a new CHT and have replaced the rotor and cap this is just to see if it gets it going as I have not found the problem
Anyway I decided to check the valve clearance after reading the appropriate literature I hoisted the car only to be once again totally pissed by the design of this car.
Question
Is it possible to remove the valve covers and adjust the valves with the heat exchangers in place?

I am starting to regret that I bought this car moral support and possibly some therapy will be require

Haven't done it on my car but I do remember reading that it makes sense to remove them for a valve adjustment because it only adds replacing a couple gaskets. I'm sure more knowledgable folks will chime in

With the car on a lift it's pretty easy if you are laying on gravel it's real pain.
Use a big flat screwdriver and pop the wire retaining bales up or down and take em out of the hole in the head.
Remove valve covers noting the VW logo should be upside down.
Adjust valves
Install new valve cover gaskets with a gasket sealant not RTV

Yes. Is it a pain to do? Yes. Follow the advice as stated above, you'll need a stubby or even right angle screwdriver and stubby (helps if stubby, not necessarily required) 14mm box end wrench. Oh, and Neosporin for the scratches and cuts from wedging your hands in the tight places and cutting them on the body metal... I'm not sure I'd remove the HE's as that reinstall might introduce exhaust leaks. Put the car on jack stands and remove the wheels.

And make sure innocent ears are within hearing distance...

For the most part I find working on a 914 easy. However, valve adjustments with heat exchangers on and with the car on stands is an absolute PITA. Sometimes I think it would be easier, or at least less frustrating, to drop the engine.

Also, I have found it easier to pop the bails upward for removal, and have found it easier to reinstall the covers with the bails downward. Removing or at least loosening the heat plumbing on the passenger side in front of the exchanger has also gained me some much needed working room for #4.

To pop the valve covers off, I thread a shop rag thru the bail and jerk downward on the rag. The bail will pop off the cover and the cover can be removed.

For adjusting the valves that are close to the suspension ear, I use a dime to turn the adjuster.

Once you have done the valves, tack the valve cover gasket to the valve cover, put it in place (remember the VW logo goes upside down) and then use a screwdriver or wrench to pry the bail back up.

It isn't the easiest thing to do, but it is not that hard. Two more joints in my arm would be helpful though.

Hi
I did mine with the late exhaust, now that is a pain in the arse but back to your issue. I don't think it is anything to do with your valves if the car was running before. Don't put yourself through the pain.

My car did exactly the same thing as yours I put some new plugs in got a jump so I had plenty of cranking power, checked the fuel pressure and cranked the shit out of it and it eventually started. May have been flooded due to the many times of trying with the injectors priming. Don't pump the gas just foot flat to the boards.

Good luck

Two more joints?

It's really not that bad.

Things could be worse. The more you do it the easier it becomes. Try replacing heater hoses on a 2006 Nissan Altima or a 1998 Olds Cutlass. Talk about a PIA and a knuckle buster!!!

On 914s with the 70-74 style exhausts, access is a bit limited but it is there. I generally reach in from the front and back side of the head--in the back, my arm rests on top of the heat exchanger so I can get my hands into the rocker box area.

I remove the rear wheel on the side I am working under. That provides more access, and is certainly easier than removing the exhaust.

--DD

Yep .... makes it go easier

I use the capt'n's method, on jackstands, both tires on, block one tire and rotate the motor using my foot...

I'll have to try pulling the bail with a shop rag, that is usually what busts my balls, but even then I just pry the bail off from the side - no big deal....

Wonderbar flat bar from the rear, flip the bail out of the hole....off you go.

in my driveway, which is slightly slanted, nose ASS toward street, 2nd gear REVERSE, emergency
brake off, I shoulder the car to get an indicated TDC in slot. To ensure that someone
hasn't modified the distributor, check position of rotor, should be pointed to #1,
if it is, it's good, then fall on the stack of cardboard beside the car and ensure both
intake and exhaust are fully closed. Grab the rocker at the nut with your fingers,
then attempt to move the rocker. You should feel and Just hear the Ickity Ack.
These are aluminum cases, aluminum heads with solid lifters.
~
Clickity Clack is BAD.
Tickity Tack is ok, but adjust them soon.
Ickity Ack is right on the money.
No Ickity Ack is BAD ! TOO TIGHT !
~
Also, check the other side where both valves are closed and check gap again.
If you find one loses its' settings and always seems to be the loudest.
Replace the pushrod, and readjust.
Hope this helps.
Hang in there, it gets better.

Ron's way with the cloth on the bale. It doesn't scratch the cover and you're less apt to ouch a hand. Laying on any surface to do the valves is a major hassle. MAJOR hassle.

I'd rather de with the exchangers being in the way than risking pulling an exhaust stud. It's really not difficult to adjust the valves with them in place.

Don't let your car get you down. These are 40+ year old cars and can be a real pain at times but a blast to drive. Try to get the main things fixed (like starting) and worry about the little things later.

About the valve adjustment, I found I need to remove the heat flappers to get access to the valve cover and valves.

The bent Tommy bar in the stock toolkit (for use with lug nut socket) works really well to manage the bale, without scratching the valve cover. (You'd almost think it's made for this.) Slide it in at an angle from the rear.

The first time I tried valve adjustment, it was frustrating and awful. But it seems like the more you do it and get acquainted with the process, it becomes much easier. I could also say that about removing my fuel tank.....1st time sucked, 2nd was easy.
Just take your time and find ways to make it easier. I've found that having a header makes my life easier when it comes to valves....but when I did have HE, taking out the heater pipes, etc. did make it more manageable. And yes....you will end up swearing a lot!! The Cap't method does make it easier but the first few times I did it by the book just to learn how the valves worked and so on....
Don't get discouraged and if you are anything like I am, if I get too out of my head with frustration, I leave it for the next day and I feel better about it.