Recently switched engines and kept the same starter. It would just click, checked the battery and had a low charge. Switched to a fully charged battery and same click.

I had an extra new starter, installed and larger click with throw out of rod as expected but won't spin. What am I missing?

Dave

Click to view attachment

old

Click to view attachment

new

Can you show a pic of all the connections from before(old) and after(new)?

I am just finished putting motor back in today and tightening everything up and cant get my starter to fire either. I am thinking I dont have all the correct connections to mine.

I am also having a hard time getting fuel pump back on. Someone had two wires coming out of the harness that look from wiring diagram to be correct for fuel pump. I ran some test wires from battery and sure enough the fuel pump comes right on. However, the way it is wired now it doesnt come on with key in 'on' position anymore.

I did have some issues with the plug for that harness. The slip connectors all came out of their housing but I think I was able to get that all back together. The only one missing is the #6 yellow (ignition coil) wire appears to be cut but there is a lot of BS wiring in this thing from a PO and a lot of stuff apparently removed when switched to carbs. There is a wire going to the hot side of the coil from the branch of the harness (that also goes to starter) that is hot on key and that seems to be what was going to coil before.

Check your grounds. Remove the ground cables, clean the terminals and reinstall.

Also, how old are your cables? Battery cables do go bad over time.

Check the gound cable from the trans to body.

I didn't reconnect that. Is that it? I feel like I'm missing a wire on starter too. Does anyone know what goes there?

Is your "new" starter a 914 starter? Can't help but notice it looks quite different. The old starter is a self supporting starter and the "new" starter utilizes a support bushing.

That is it, make sure it's really clean.

Rich

That's what I was thinking, a bad ground. Double checked that I have the cable from trans to body, it's there. Then thought maybe the negative cable from battery to the body. Took off and cleaned there. Same result.

The starter I got is from Autozone, maybe wrong type?

Dave

sounds like a ground problem...

I should keep my mouth shut, but yes, the starter is wrong. I think it's a Type 1 starter.

If all you get is a click from the old starter, check to make sure that when you turn the key to the start position you are getting 12vdc to the small yellow wire that is plugged into the starter solenoid.

If you are indeed getting that voltage, it's a bad starter.

I may have to agree that the starter you posted from autozone is wrong, but I understand that is typical and listed wrong in some books they use.
Bring it back, and bring your old one with you to compare the shape of the nose....

The starter you got from the FLAPS is the wrong starter. You have an SR15X which is a type 1 starter. It shouldn't fit at all. The bushing on the end of the Bendix is meant to be in a hole in the bell housing to support the Bendix drive.

You need an SR17X ... "VW Automatic Starter" as it is called. The one in your first pic is correct.

If you are getting a "click" and nothing else, your solenoid is bad or not receiving sufficient voltage to engage the Bendix drive and turn the motor.

The electrical catalogs have been wrong for 20 years that I know of and have never been corrected.

Judging from the photo, you don't have much if any ground path for that starter. It grounds through the body of the starter, through the trans, then the trans ground strap, then the chassis, the battery ground strap, and to the battery (-) terminal.

In the photo, the starter isn't even connected to the transmission, which means no ground path.

--DD

Thanks for everyones input. Dave, I did figure that out and hooked a set of jumper cables to the starter then to the trany strap and it would kick out but wouldn't turn.

But I did finally figure out the problem. What I didn't show was a cut off switch I installed that broke the connection of the positive cable to the starter. The switch must be not 100% effective because it would allow some of the current thru, enough to get a click. Dummy me forgot to switch it to full flow, now it works. I put the old starter back on.

On a side note I did find by Slits comment that the starter is the wrong one. Anyone have the right part number for the correct starter at Autozone? ....of course I've long lost the receipt but would be good for future reference.

Dave

I know Mike, tell me about it. I never claimed to be capable at electrical work....but I can't con anyone else into helping.

I'm slowly getting it, but progress could definitely be at a faster pace.

Dave

The ones used in the industry are:

Lester - 16300
Bosch - SR17X

This is the 0.8 HP unit

You can also use the bigger 911 starter:

Lester - 16426
Bosch - SR68X

This one is 1.5 HP

The computers the FLAPS use should be able to cross either number, Lester or Bosch.

In looking at the AutoZone website, they list the correct starter as a 16300.

Ron,
Thanks for the reply. My response is late, still messing with this if you can believe it. The teener gods are not happy with me.

Is the substitute 911 starters, being 1.5 hp considered the 'high torq' type?

It seems to take quite a bit of torque to turn the engine over, but if I turn the distrib clockwise a little it will start with some effort, then I need to turn counter clockwise to run better.

If I had a high torque starter maybe it would turn the engine over faster to start easier.

Dave

The "high torque" starters are modern starters with gear-reduction mechanisms. The 911 starter is simply a 911 starter.

--DD

Dave,
Thanks for the reply. What's the part number for a gear reduced high torque starter and where can I get one?

Dave

Pelican lists part number PEL-GE-STHT . Obviously a Pelican-specific part number.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperC...H_pg1.htm#item0

Other 914-friendly vendors will have them as well. (Cough, cough, GPR.) You can find them on evil-bay as well, but some of those have significant quality issues.

--DD

Replace both all the cables. Trust me. I chased this for a couple months. Same issues.

It's aliveeeeeeeeee........................

Dave

Inquiring minds want to know. what fixed it?

I kept on thinking it was a starter problem. I took a meter reading of the voltage at the battery and my lack luster positive cut off switch (both sides) and then a reading at the starter. Which all read the same voltage. So I knew I didn't have a loss of power to the starter.

I then backed off the timing on the distrib which allowed it to turn over easier. Then it was a matter of adjusting the idle mixture at the carbs. Which I probably need to get one of those air flow meters to make sure all four barrels of both carbs are the same.

A combination of a few things. Now it will start up. Time to finally get this teener back on the road.

Dave

Glad you found it! A word of caution like you don't know or something... Double check the timing and yes get a sync meter. You really don't want to burn a valve or drop a seat by over heating the cylinders (spark knock) or running one cylinder lean.

Every once in awhile the theory doesn't hold true. (90% of starting issues are electrical)