Greetings Friends:

This restoration and V8 conversion is getting interesting every day now that
I have actually started to WORK on the Teener. Cleaned out the Engine bay
and removed the rear control arms in preparation for pending V8 conversion
and working on a 31 year old car thing "Snap" Break or remain seezed. With
a torch nearby and some serious power tools (breaker arm and pipe !) I have
been able to remove most stubborn bolts, fateners, etc.

However today I snapped off and control arm/shim plate bolt "up inside" the
most forward position on the drivers side. This was even after some penatrating
fluid and then a touch to heat everything up only to have it BREAK.
Any thought on removing this one, ie. drill it, easy-out, heat again, etc. etc. I do
have limited access since the fender is there and in great shape. Appreciate
any help again.

Allan

I had the same thing happen on the driver's side with all 3 bolts. I ended up drilling out and replacing with a nut and bolt. Not quite stock but it works well. A friend suggested to use an air gun on hard to remove bolts since the strong arm method with a wrench or socket usually breaks the bolt off instead of breaking the bolt free. All I need is a nice compressor and an air gun.

Spoke

You probably know this already, and if not it's too late anyways.. Buried under gobs of undercoating is a plastic cap on the top side, which you can remove to expose the other side of the threaded portion of the body. This way you can actually fill the threads with penetrating oil and let gravity help it penetrate. If you did that and it still broke, the threads are probably so rusted that you should probably get a longer bolt and a nut anyways.

I had that happen too.
Ended up drilling up through the bolt to put a new nut and bolt in.
Only thing is, the remnants of the bolt up there are high grade steel, so that you will need some good drill bits. Don't quite remember if I ended up using cobalt bits, or if I needed carbide, but I do remember they were expensive and I broke a couple.
I started with a bit about half the size of the bolt and then moved up the actual size.
It was a b..... of a job, but it's doable, and you get to enjoy the car afterwards !

Michel Richard
914/6 2.2E MFI

I used a dremmel and drilled a hole in the broken bolt. After letting it sit with penetrating oil from the top (as discribed above) I used an easy out to back out the bolt.

Good Luck!

Jeff

If you have to resort to drilling out the bolt, try using a left hand drill bit. Many times, the bolt will back out durring the drilling process. If not, you haven't lost any time. McMaster-Carr stocks them. Probably about $3.50 for the appropriate size. Of course you'll need your reversing drill too.

Andy

If you use an easy-out be careful, I broke a spiral one off up there and it was next to impossible to get it out. (spent a week with my dremel and a silicone carbide grinding point).

QUOTE

Buried under gobs of undercoating is a plastic cap on the top side, which you can remove to expose the other side of the threaded portion of the body.

PS: you can work the bolt out through the top also!

Just an FYI

Jeff

Hey Allen, I PM you just a little while ago. I have two sets of extractors that you can borrow. The same thing happened to me on both sides. I used extractors on one side to remove the broken pieces and drilled out the other and re-tapped it just fine. IT did however take a lot of patients and hard work. Let me know if you want me to come over this Saturday, I will bring the tools and we can have a party.

Regards,

Turbo Paul.

UPDATE

Problem Solved, thanks to Turbo Paul's help when he stopped by today and
drilled out my broken bolt and together we drilled it out before using easi-out
and extracted the broken one, also some assist with my tourch !! Got it !

THANKS all for your imput and replies, much appreciated until next time.

Allan

Just a quick pointer to help guide yourself and any others on here--BEFORE trying anything at all when loosening old hardware, if space allows, use a large hammer, I prefer brass 1 lb mallet, and smack the crap out of it SQUARE on the head about three times-when I say smack I do not mean like a girl, and manly thwack is what it needs--the shockwaves this sends thru the fastener will 99% of the time loosen everything up from the inside out---