I am replacing my front rotors so I decided to replace the original bearings while I am at since they have a funny ting to them.

My question is what else do I need????.
I keep hearing about a seal that needs replacing????.

Appreciate any input as I dont want to be tearing this all apart again anytime soon.
Should I do SS lines???.

Thanks for any advice.

You need to replace the bearing seal on the back side of the rotor as you will destroy the old one in order to remove the bearing. I would pick up a shop manual so you know the correct way to install the rotors and how to tighten the bearing nut. You don't want to screw up installing brakes and rotors, it could be hazardous to your health.

PM your address and I'll send you a CD ... no charge

Cut & Paste from me previous post on the subject:

A complete bearing race tool set was just $29 at Harbor Freight just a few weeks ago

Here's the quick list (just did this two weeks ago).
1 - break lugs loose
2 - jack car up, jackstands, remove wheels
3 - remove rigid brake lines at calipers, cap lines (I used the bleeder caps)
4 - Bend tabs back on caliper bolt retention plates (use a cold chisel and hammer), but go easy, they are reuseable if you dot get all gorilla on them
5 - Remove caliper bolts and remove calipers
6 - using claw hammer, remove bearing caps
7 - loosen allen locking bolt on wheel nut
8 - remove wheel nut ( driver's side is LH thread)
9 - Rotors will almost fall off at this point
10 - remove wheel bearings
11 - with a drift pin (or pencil sized steel shaft) drive out the inner bearing races. There are slots in the rotor that let you knock out the races without damaging them. Alternate sides to keep it moving out straight.
12 - clean up all old grease on rotors so you can inspect the bearing race seating area.
13 - lightly grease new bearing race and set in place on rotor
14 - using bearing tool (50mm inner & 39.5mm outer) pound in the bearing races with a hammer. I have seen where people suggest freezing the bearing first, but I noticed very little difference doing it cold vs warm. Just pound it in until the sound changes.
15 - Check to make sure the race is seated all the way. You should not even be able to get a .001 feeler gauge in between the race & the rotor.
16 - grease inner bearing and install in rotor
17 - install new bearing seal on inside of rotor
18 - slide the rotor over the spindle being very careful to not drag the new seal over the threads or letting the rotor twist as the bearing race slides into place
19 - grease & install the outer bearing and the washer
20 - install the wheel nut and torque down very tight while rotating wheel to seat the bearings
21 - loosen the wheel nut until you can just barely move the washer with the tip of a screwdriver. You should not be able (or barely able) to wiggle the rotor at all when torquing the rotor top & bottom.
Leave the bearing cap off a this point.
22- clean the rotors thoroughly with brake cleaner
23 - reinstall the caliper, retention plate (bending the tabs back in place on the bolt heads) brake lines, and then bleed the brakes (do the fronts first, then be sure to do all four in the proper order.)
24 - reinstall the wheel
25 - drive around the block, then jack the car back up and recheck the tightness of the wheel nut with the washer wiggle test, retighten (will probably be necessary)
26 - set car down and THEN reinstall the bearing caps

And you can have Early or Late front calipers on the car.
Regardless which ones you have, you need to buy rotors that match, the offset is different.
If the bolts that hold the calipers together have nuts on them you have Early calipers.
If the bolts thread into the outer caliper half (no nut), they are Late calipers.

I always keep one set of old races....take a grinder/sander to the OD so they are no longer a press fit and you can use those to help drive in the new races.

I believe that the point of using aluminum "bearing race driver tools" is that you cannot damage the hardened steel race surface.

And of course if you have a press it is a lot easier on the race than actually pounding on it.
But your idea is a good one as the old race will only press against the top non-bearing surface.

You are NOT driving around the block without the bearing caps installed???? So now you are getting dust and grit into the new bearings and fresh grease. Why bother to clean and replace the bearings in the first place.

And I have been known to run with scissors.
The environment where I do ALL of my car wrenching is also my weld & grind shop.
So the "around the block" is probably more benign to the bearings from the perspective of contamination than "sitting in my garage".

But sure...

"25 - drive around the block,"
should be changed to:
"25 - drive around the block (DISCLAIMER - NOT in a sandstorm or any dirt mountain passes)"

My drivers front wheel does not have a bearing cap since I bought the car.Its in my picture of the car i think.

When removed the outer wheel bearing and it did not have much bearing grease and the bearings were a redish color,so rather than just changing out the rotor I thought I might as well do the bearings.

So I ordered bearings and noticed you could order seals as well,but I did not know if I needed them.

I am still looking for a bearing cap though????

But thanks to everyone here I now have a plan and some direction as to where to go.
I ordered the seals today along with new SS brake lines.
Ill wait for all the parts to arrive next week and follow the directions you guys posted.

Again thanks to everyone for there help.
Cheers Grant.

Definitely need the bearing cap. Grease and grit are not a good combination.

Another important reason to have bearing caps is that when the wheel gets hot, the grease will try to fly out and when it does it could dribble down the rotor.

Please be careful this is a critical operation, clean and well packed bearings, with over 30 years as a tech I've seen a lot of jacked up wheel bearings by dyiers,