Thanks you for answering my dumb questions in advance. a weeks worth of questions have accumulated.

1: passenger side door will not open from outside, and only opens from the inside using the lock lever?

2: driver side door only closes if gently pushed until it locks, bounces back if pushed from even an inch away.

3: tips for installing the top section of the main targa seal? I have the sides in, but not the top?

4: does anybody know the correct spacing for the Porsche letters on the engine lid?

5: what color wire goes to the defroster button on the center console?

6: I have a different thread for this ( it's about installing late bumpers)

That's all for now...

Thanks,
Finn

I will take #1 as it is the easiest and most common 914 issue. Do this: 1.) Remove door panel, 2.) With an "Allen Head" socket (too hard and not enough room without one mounted in a socket) remove the visible allen bolt from the passenger door latch (look thought the opening in the door with the window up with a flash light and you will see it. 3.) remove the 10mm nut from the door handle on the side of the door, 4.) remove door handle.

You will see a "whitish" or black (sometimes even yellow) plastic part the door flapper moves in when you pull on the flapper to open the door from the outside. You will see that one or both sides of the plastic part are broken.

Order two because the driver's side is going to break too. 914 Rubber has them as does Pelican Parts and AA (Auto Atlanta).

Remove the broken part ("a girl could do it") and replace with new after you clean things up. I spray it all with Silicone Spray after it is all cleaned up. You are fixed !

If you want to make sure it doesn't happen again, remove the three screws, and door rod from the door latch and remove it. Almost always it will be grunged up and stiff to move the lock/unlock slider. Ultrasonic cleaners and Simple Green make them like new without any work. Or, two cans of "Brake Clean" and Q-tips will be needed. Once clean (move the latch, lock slider, hasp to each full position to make sure you get all the gunk out), FLOOD with Tri-Flow spray Lubricant. Move everything back and forth again to work the lube in and the remaining (and there will be some) gunk out and FLOOD again.

Let sit overnight wrapped in a paper towel. Next day, clean off all excess lubricant on non-moving, non-contact parts (a shot of brake clean on a paper towel helps) and re-install.

I silicone spray the inside door handle moving parts and the two little rubber guide blocks as well.

Should work as good or better than new.

NOTE: Using the spray tube on the Tri-Flow to spray in the lock tumbler helps also while you have the door handle out. I push the tip of the key in to open up the tumbler for the spray tube.

In my first paragraph, I should have typed "Door Handle" not "Door Latch" (I was thinking ahead too far) for the Allen Bolt.

No such thing as a dumb question here, I. Just had a similar issue to this myself a week or two ago. We're here to help and keep our beloved cars on the road and safe.

#2 door latch not closing properly

R&R clean and relube

Remove door panel and pockets, make sure door is in unlocked and latched position.

Remove outer door handle. 6mm Allen and 10 mm wrench

Undo lock rod, spring over clip and remove rod.

Then there are 3 larger Phillip head screws, two on the side of the latch and one on the inside of the door.

By twisting and some finagling, you can get the mechanism out.

Clean with preferred degreaser and then carb or brake cleaner.

Now degreased, inspect for severe wear and actuate multiple times.

If all appears well, lubricate. Either a dry slide lubricant or a white lithium/lubriplate in modest amounts in the pivot and spring areas. Repeat actuation, repeatedly till smooth low pressure is required. Make sure you have cleaned and lubed the pivot shaft for the catch arm.

Reassemble in reverse order. If you have intermittent problems upon putting the outer handle back on, it could be the C bracket or the interface spot to the plastic pusher are rubbing. A nudge with a screwdriver handle end can bend it the .050" to get clearance

#3. Top seal

I start with a bucket of really hot tap water and put the seal in the water until water is cooled to warm.

I personally have tried both aerosol spray glass cleaner as a lube and Amzoil MP/WD-40 on the receiving surfaces. Personally I like the glass cleaner, less clean up, but sometimes you need a little more lube....

I start one of the A pillar sides and get it about 90 percent in and start working around the top seal portion till about 3/4 of the way or so.

Then I start on the other A pillar and work it down as far as possible.

Now the fun part, inchworming, now that it is mostly in, work from side to side, pulling/tugging/pushing and you will get there. It gets too tight, add some lube, let it run down the rubber/channel and keep at it.

#4 from here: http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/TechNotebook.htm

Thank you all for your responses so far, keep them coming! Special thanks to porschef for taking the time to precisely measure the lettering for me

Black/Lt Blue stripes mated with the brown ground wire (the longest one) from the central console harness connections.

Bb\lck/light blue stripes mated with the long brown found wire from the center console harness connections.

This is great BTW....