To pull the rear hubs I take off the brake disc and all I should have to do is remove the nut and pull it off. Am i correct or did I forget something? There is nothing to do on the backside is there?

Is that a 914 4 bolt hub that has been redrilled, or is that on the 928? If its the 914, there are 2 slotted screws.

QUOTE (vsg914 @ Feb 27 2005, 10:04 AM)

Is that a 914 4 bolt hub that has been redrilled, or is that on the 928? If its the 914, there are 2 slotted screws.

Its on the 914. I am not sure if it is a redrill or not I didnt get that far yet. It started raining and this car is on the parking pad next to the shop. I know about the screws in the disc but am going to swap the hubs for car to car so isnt it just the nut at the end of the stub axle that holds the hub on?

Sorry Larry, i misread your post. Yep, remove the axle nut and it *should* drive out.

Removing the hub isn't that easy..(don't you wish). If I remember right this is what I did:

1. remove caliper
2. remove two screws and pull off brake disc
3. remove big castle nut...it's torqued down at like 230 ft/lbs
4. remove axle from tranny side (if you have one in) and pull out stub axle/axle combo. If axles are already off...just pull out the stub axle (might take some slight force (keep axle nut on and pound alittle). This should come out pretty easy
5. now the hard part, the hub won't be so easy. What I did is get a socket about the diameter of the shaft...reverse it....put in an extension...and from the rear with a big ole hammer pound that sucker out. note: the bearing may come out with it.


That get's the hub out. If you also want to take the bearing out, then I used a similiar process with just a bigger socket.

Good luck!

Jim

Yea and do not forget about 1/2 of the inner bearing shell coming out with the hub, which necessitates a special bearing puller fixture to get that damned thing off--or dremel cutoff-disc it off very carefully---if you have access to a large axle slide hammer use it---also try very hard to remove the four bolts that hold the outer bearing retaining plate on before you go banging away at the hub--it is possible to damage or elongate that plate when everything explodes apart and that inner bearing half shell is still rust welded to the hub----

seems to me, i had to remove the bearing retaining plate (four screws on a square plate, right under the rotor)... all i remember is that once i remember that bearing retaining plate, everything was pretty much smooth sailing. bearing pounded right out with a BmofoH

Would I be better off just to swap out swing arm assemblies out car to car?

QUOTE

Would I be better off just to swap out swing arm assemblies out car to car?

Well... yes.

Seriously, it would be much easier and you'll save money, around $140 bucks if my math is correct (4 new bearings at $35 each). You'll probably need an alignment afterward but I'd bet your still money ahead.

The worst thing about a trailing arm swap will probably be the shock bolts (22 or 24mm if I recall).

For the arms you'll need a 17mm (impact is best) and a 22mm. For the 17mm bolts, go out now and remove the plastic caps on the top of the control arm mounts and spray some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil down there. Let it sit over night and "then" wrench on the bolts. Too many people can chime in here about breaking off the bolts on the suspension consoule.

Bottom line... if the bearings are good on both cars, swap the control arms. (but I really think you need a 5-lug system on both cars... but that's just me)