I'm kind of on my last major overhaul on the car, the suspension. I replaced the KYB's with some used Bilsteins, and while I thought there'd be a big improvement, that wasn't really the case. I especially feel it when driving on some of these fine LI roads, or when going over the RR tracks. Dang car feels like it's gonna rattle apart. I think it's time for new bushings.

So the question is twofold; first, for those who've done this, how dramatic was the improvement?

Is there a kit or complete listing available somewhere?

OK, a third ? Is it a difficult job?

Thanks in advance,

Joe

In the front, turbo tie rods and Elephants bronze bushings made the difference for me.

Are the springs new or old and what # are they? Did you replace Front shocks as well? What about your tires - size, type, age and air pressure? Swaybars- f & r? It's a system and everything is part of the mix.
Replacing the bushing with quality ones is pretty time consuming and pricey. Make sure all the easy stuff is done first.

How stout are your front torsion bars?

Thanks for the replies, Geoff, Mark and Kevin, the suspension is stock, 100lb springs, F&R bars (all w new bushings) the used Bilsteins seem pretty ok (well the fronts anyway, rears may be a bit more used...) Tires are 205/65s. Definitely not low profile.

I've got new tie rod ends that haven't been installed yet. Ball joints seem ok.

What more is there to the front end? How about the rear?

On the bars, f+r, I was referring only to the torsion bars. Not anti sway. Has the front end been dropped? You might be encountering 'bump steer'. I consider used struts and rears just that unless they are known low mileage units. You never know if they might have been hammered for 60k+miles.

In addition to the above comments, I'd add that I noticed a big difference with new Koni shocks & struts (R & F) from my 140k-ish mile OE stock Boges, so you should feel a difference in it being tighter & less bouncy with Bils' too - unless they're old enough to have mile &/or age wear (latter in particular for the rubber parts of the pistons & valving). Also IIRC stock springs were 90# - so 100# will put more force on the older shocks, even if they were okay in the prior car with 90# say.

IMHO with all the work you're doing, I'd go with a new set of Bils or Konis F&R, do the bushings all around (including for the sway bars & drop-links, etc.), new tie-rod ends + balljoints, get them all tweaked, tightened & properly 4-corner aligned, make sure your tires & wheels are all in good shape & dynamically balanced, then give it a run. It all has to work together.

I would suggest the 1/2" to 1" lowering of the front, but try it first without the bump steer kit, cuz I never had any with a 1" F drop with another 30+k miles of DD after my suspension redo (back in 1980-83 stock bushings were still available, so that may make a diff today with poly, bronze, etc. bushings).

Good Luck!
Tom
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It was a job I enjoyed. The suspension drop is fairly easy. Not like my 240Z where the front suspension cradles the engine so you have to pull it as well. I pulled it, pulled it all apart, powdercoated everything in chassis black. Elephant bushings everywhere. I did not change out the front torsion bars because I am a big believer in tuning the front with an adjustable swaybar (Tarret) rather than having a stiff spring which is what the torsion bar is. Beware though, lots of 'while I'm in there' potential...

Just finished (5 min ago) a complete rebuild of my front end suspension. Have not driven it yet as it has to be aligned but it is clear that parts I thought were ok like the ball joints were trash when I took them off. If you are going in on tearing apart the front of a 40 year old car plan on doing everything.

I went with the turbo tie rods. My car had an annoying bit of sloppiness in the front. Not a lot of apparent slop in them on the car, but when I took the. Off they were no better than wet noodles. Same with the ball joints.

I got a new set of control arms and did the bushings and ball joints on tem so I could just do a swap out. Went pretty well.

After seeing how bad so many parts were I know it will be a huge improvement.

I did the Elephant rubber bushings on the front A arms. Highly recommended. Lemforder ball joints, Lemforder turbo tie rods, 20mm aftermarket torsion bars, stock sway bars, Bilsteins. (I did EVERYTHING)

It all works as a system, the more parts you can afford to replace/renew, the better the results.

Explain bump steer.

Cliff's notes version:
When only one of the front wheels goes over a bump, it will change the steering input to that wheel. Depending on weather the steering input is in front or behind the wheel, it will pull/push the front end. It is accentuated when the cars are lowered or raised without correcting the geometry.

Both tie rods should be as close to level as possible.

The result of angled (up or down) tie rods causes bump steer.