Wish it were a VW, or at least used a 36mm nut on the rear axle/hub instead of the 30 so I could use my torquemeister. Anybody ever weld a 36mm nut to an old 30mm socket and use their VW torque tool? I know on a bug it's way better than jumping on a breaker bar.

Next question (building it): This weld would need to handle at least 300lbs, maybe more on the really stuck ones, so to ensure strength of welds I'm thinking: grind chrome off of socket, JB Weld inner area, them MIG the outer... or would the JB Weld catch fire?

Any of the business people here want to take this idea and make/manufacture/sell an adapter?

Take a wire wheel and clean top of shaft treads and pull cotter pin. Soak in PB Blaster for a day or so. It will help a whole lot when you get started breaking the axle nut. I have broken 1/2" breaker bars jumping on them. Hard on your ass when you fall.

Can't see much market for it when a 36mm socket and impact wrench works fine. If I don't have an impact I use a chain bolt to one hub hole and either loop it around the trailing arm or bolt the other end to a caliper bolt hole. Holding solid it needed.
I use a Harbor Freight 3/4 breaker bar and a two foot extender. Rare that i cant get them off. Have had some I had to cut with an angle grinder to the stub axle threads and use a BFH and punch to break loose.

I used a large torque wrench to tighten mine,worked well,can't remember the torque however...something like 220ft/lbs from memory.
To assist undoing the nut use wd40 or pb blaster and a heat gun or even better a small propane torch...heat the nut then spray,works every time,good luck.

JB Weld won't take the heat. Clamp it properly for welding. Have a real welder weld it if you're unsure of your own skills. Don't use a chrome socket. Use an impact socket.

BTW, if it does break while using the Torquemeister, I can't see any risk to life and limb compared to jumping on a breaker bar.

IIRC, the torque is 217 to 253 lb-ft. Maybe rent a good torque wrench from your FLAPS.

I used a torque wrench without problem

Air impact wrench from Home Depot had them off in 30 seconds each. And the weels were off the car. No issues - though I may have heated them with a MAP torch first. It was long enough ago that I dont remember.

Zach

I have a 3/4 breaker bar and a 2 foot and 6 foot heavy pipe.
The only time I ever have trouble has been a bug with no engine, tranny and brakes. For that I made another bar that bolts to the bolt pattern.
Works every time on bug, bus and 914, I've never jumped on a bar.
Also I've never found 914 nuts to be anywhere as bad as bug and bus big nuts.

I don't know what you are trying to do by welding a nut to the torquemeister?

I made a tool like this years ago using an impact socket and maybe 1/2 x 1 flat stock and I machined a little boss for the small gear to go into. I used an impact socket cause they aren't as hard as regular sockets then I tig welded the thing together. I don't remember what I made it for but I think I used it for the flywheel bolt and I only had a crappy impact gun at the time. I guess it also helps that I'm a machinist and welder so it was the easy thing to do. If anyone is interested I'll post a pic when I get home from vacation in a few days.

So you want to get them off.
I had the same problem, I heated them up good and hot with a propane gas torch then used a 3/4" socket and a long breaker bar with 3 foot pipe extension. I changed the rear bearing so I wasn't bothered how hot it got (heat damage to existing bearings)

Weld a 36mm VW nut to the 30mm socket so the torquemeister fits. An adapter of sorts.

An impact in the collection sounds like fun though...

That's why I have both a 2 foot and 6 foot pipe. BTW the 6 foot has to be quite heavy wall pipe.

Of course it also helps that I'm a WWE pro wrestler.

Sears has a nice sale going on for Craftsman impacts (essentially 1/2 off). Headed that way after work.

My nuts are pretty rusted (ha) so I'll probably keep hitting them with PB Blaster twice a day for the next few days before I try it out. The screws to remove the rotors need their share too, I really don't want to have to drill them out.

After 2 weeks of twice a day PB Blaster and a week of trying, the impact finally took these things off. (I bought the one with 500lbs of torque) They were really crusty. The hammer screwdriver thing finally got the rotors off with some serious pounding.

So now I guess I shouldn't be surprised that the stub axles won't budge. Of course the CVs are stuck inside the control arm. Any advice or should I just stick to the BFH with a piece of rubber to protect the end of the axle?

I assume without reading up the inboard flanges have been disconnected? Soak the stubs in penetrant, get it down in the splines. Put the nuts back on backwards and thread them down so the stub is not sticking out before you BF Hammer them or else you will BF Up them up. Should not have to BF Beat them to death, should come out fairly easy.

Which "inboard flanges"? You mean on the CVs? Or am I totally missing something?