I finally got my son over to help me set my crank end play. Bolted up the flywheel with the original shims under it and for the life of me we can't get the crank to slide at all. I'm pretty sure that it is supposed to be .003-.005. What is the best way to push and pull to get it to move?

Thanks

Do you have the proper tools to set it? It doesn't flop back and forth noticeably, you must use a tool to push it back and forth. Look in the manual for details.

Geoff

Remove all the shims, bolt up the flywheel, and measure endplay. Then install the correct thickness of shims (should use 2 thick, and one thinner - the thinner one being the one that you can buy in different thickness) to give you the specified endplay.

It's just easier to measure without shims when the crank/flywheel moves more.

Demick

QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Feb 27 2005, 08:01 PM)

Do you have the proper tools to set it? It doesn't flop back and forth noticeably, you must use a tool to push it back and forth. Look in the manual for details. Geoff

I have a dial indicator set up to measure it. I looked in the Haynes manual and didn't see any mention of a tool for moving it.

Allan. you need .004, anything less is unaccetable. More is O.K. up to about .oo6. Take out 1 shim and meausre it again. then pick a shim that will bring you into size. If you have a problem call me at (714) 847-8002. I'm off all week, (prolly till 3/13) if you need anything or there is anything I can do. I use 2 big screw drivers, one on each side of the fly wheel to force it out, and just use my hands to squeez it back.
Joe

Thanks Joe. I'm gonna hang it up for tonight. My son took off anyway. I'll give it another shot tomorrow.

Okay, I'm back at it again. I put the 2 larger shims in and ended up with .010 of end play. I added the third shim which measures as best that my crappy calipers can tell around .005. When I measure again I get right about .0045, BUT, I have to push on the flywheel to get that. When I let go it will go back to zero. Should I have to put pressure on the flywheel to get the reading?

P.S. Tried to call ya Joe but you no home.

Hey Allan, the barbarian here....when I setup end play I would drive the crank forward with a softblow hammer and then pull it back with a large prybar (screwdriver or such). I didn't leave pressure on the flywheel when I measured it.

i was gonna say a rubber mallet,,,but i figured i would get flamed...

I hit it, the dial indicator will hold the reading.

Rich

QUOTE (r_towle @ Feb 28 2005, 08:38 PM)

i was gonna say a rubber mallet,,,but i figured i would get flamed... I hit it, the dial indicator will hold the reading. Rich

Consider yourself flamed

Okay, using the brute force method, it looks to be right at .003. Good, bad? Oh and I should elaborate on the brute force. 5 pound sledge with a wood block. I hope it didn't break anything.

to small

gentle.....i use a rubber mallet....slits said sof blow hammer....both weigh alot less than a 5 lbs sledge....

try a smaller hammer with the wood....it really is a firm tap

004-006

Well I can get .005 if I just push on it a little but when I let go it springs back. It seems like it should be sloppy being that these are original shims.

that would depend on what you did to the case, crank, and bearings etc...

This has really got to be right. its worth getting the right shims.

Take one out and see what you get with the hammer (soft)
Also, how is your dial indicator mounted...if it is not mounted securely it will bounce and not read it right....

Rich

I had the case align bored and the crank polished. ended up with std crank and .020 case bearings. Dial indicator is magnetic onto the flywheel. Will the new bearings cause it to tighten up?

The case work would probably have more to do with it than the bearings, but due to mfgr tolerances, it could be the bearings too!

Well I'm going to leave it alone for tonight again. Based on the measurements from my calipers, the shims are all the same size so even swapping them around I end up with .010 of play with 2 shims in. Do they make a .005-.006 shim? Oh and by the way, do you think I could have screwed anything up banging on it like the front main seal, thrust bearings or case?

Allan: If the crank is moving after you put in all the way in and it is compressing ( springing back) you may have a cuped shim. Use new shims. .004 to .006 are the only numbers that are acceptable. See you at the party. If you con't get it set we can do it at the party. Shims are close by.
Joe

Okay, let's try this again. I went to the local bug shop and picked up a couple of different size shims and started swapping them around and measuring. I finally have a decent .004 of end play even without pushing on the flywheel or using the sledge.

Can I go in the house now?

QUOTE (Headrage @ Mar 1 2005, 03:31 PM)

Okay, let's try this again. I went to the local bug shop and picked up a couple of different size shims and started swapping them around and measuring. I finally have a decent .004 of end play even without pushing on the flywheel or using the sledge. Can I go in the house now?

No, you have to find something else to lose your hair over....after all, it's a 914.

Oh I've got that covered. Fuel lines going in this week.