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porschetub
QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 25 2017, 01:04 AM) *

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?


maf914,I used a scrap of 50x50x5 box section (RHS) cut and sectioned to make an angle,the reason I choose this was because the 5mm thinkness is basically correct to support the bush,I may have added an extra snap ring as a spacer but can't remember offhand.
Click to view attachment
It takes a bit of setup time but wasn't too hard,as I had a longer rod made up I decided to add another uni-joint to further help rod alignment ,you need to cut a hole in the rear of the plastic cover for obvious reasons.
I got the oil impregnated bushes from a seller on ebay.
Hope that helps.

moparrob
QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 25 2017, 01:27 PM) *

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 25 2017, 01:04 AM) *

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?


maf914,I used a scrap of 50x50x5 box section (RHS) cut and sectioned to make an angle,the reason I choose this was because the 5mm thinkness is basically correct to support the bush,I may have added an extra snap ring as a spacer but can't remember offhand.
Click to view attachment
It takes a bit of setup time but wasn't too hard,as I had a longer rod made up I decided to add another uni-joint to further help rod alignment ,you need to cut a hole in the rear of the plastic cover for obvious reasons.
I got the oil impregnated bushes from a seller on ebay.
Hope that helps.


Very creative on that bracket. It would be nice if someone did a three axis scan on that and created the part in billet.
moparrob
Double post huh.gif
mepstein
QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 23 2017, 01:44 PM) *

First up was the AN16 with straight end and 30 deg end. Decided a bit of 800 degree shield would be good next to the header too.
Click to view attachment

A couple years ago when I ran the AN12 front oil cooler lines through the heater tubes to the engine bay it all made sense and I liked it. Having an elbow coming out of the thermostat right next to engine mount seemed tight but ok.
Now, with the engine in place that hose is a bit of a challenge, and like Learmo63 says, the fewer the elbows the better.

My last post said jokingly that I may not post pictures but I am now happy with what I ended up with. So pictures there will be!

I always liked an original 911 hard line concept; tight bend out of the block, close to the engine and drain tubes plus away from headers. So I shortened a 911 hard line, bent, and had a fitting tig welded to the end. This hard line is similar to the PMS line they sell for $160 and I did it for $42. I had the line cut 2 years ago just waiting for the engine install.

Have to say the first hose approach was a bunch of close proximity elbows and it was nuts.
The big spiral approach is going to be it! Just a bit of clamping and I’m done with oil system.

Seems like baby steps but progress none the same. And many thanks to my hose"guy"
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

I’m not there to see this in 3D but I wonder if a 45 degree fitting on each end of a short piece of line would connect without the loop.
Or keeping the 90 on the thermostat and adding a 45 on the oil pipe.
Larmo63
I like the GT center hand brake idea, but when it is up does the shifter interfere with it. They look close, maybe too close?

It's much better to drive a 914 with seats in it. beerchug.gif

Order two steel seat adjuster handles from 914 Rubber and be done with it. Those old alloy ones break regularly.
Lucky9146
QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 25 2017, 01:27 PM) *

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 25 2017, 01:04 AM) *

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?


maf914,I used a scrap of 50x50x5 box section (RHS) cut and sectioned to make an angle,the reason I choose this was because the 5mm thinkness is basically correct to support the bush,I may have added an extra snap ring as a spacer but can't remember offhand.

It takes a bit of setup time but wasn't too hard,as I had a longer rod made up I decided to add another uni-joint to further help rod alignment ,you need to cut a hole in the rear of the plastic cover for obvious reasons.
I got the oil impregnated bushes from a seller on ebay.
Hope that helps.


Porschetub thanks for all the info I was wondering too how it was made and was glad maf914 asked. I am not sure who I know could make this but the piece is a really good idea.
Lucky9146
QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 25 2017, 03:32 PM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 23 2017, 01:44 PM) *


A couple years ago when I ran the AN12 front oil cooler lines through the heater tubes to the engine bay it all made sense and I liked it. Having an elbow coming out of the thermostat right next to engine mount seemed tight but ok.
Now, with the engine in place that hose is a bit of a challenge, and like Learmo63 says, the fewer the elbows the better.

I always liked an original 911 hard line concept; tight bend out of the block, close to the engine and drain tubes plus away from headers. So I shortened a 911 hard line, bent, and had a fitting tig welded to the end. This hard line is similar to the PMS line they sell for $160 and I did it for $42. I had the line cut 2 years ago just waiting for the engine install.

Have to say the first hose approach was a bunch of close proximity elbows and it was nuts.
The big spiral approach is going to be it! Just a bit of clamping and I’m done with oil system.

Seems like baby steps but progress none the same. And many thanks to my hose"guy"
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

I’m not there to see this in 3D but I wonder if a 45 degree fitting on each end of a short piece of line would connect without the loop.
Or keeping the 90 on the thermostat and adding a 45 on the oil pipe.


Yeah it looks like it would work with 45 deg from the pic I know what you mean. The end coming out of the 90 at the thermostat and the end of the hard line were only 7 inches from each other and with 90's on them they were in the same plane. Not a lot of real estate to work with. I really don't think there was room for 45's and then more 90's just didn't make sense and even that wouldn't really work either. Thanks for looking in.

Edit to add picture to show how tight it is against the engine mount right now I have a piece of rubber in there for cushion. if anything the elbow coming out of the thermostat could bave been like 75 degrees. The mount is coming down at an angle. Hope this helps.
Click to view attachment
Lucky9146
QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 25 2017, 03:36 PM) *

I like the GT center hand brake idea, but when it is up does the shifter interfere with it. They look close, maybe too close?

It's much better to drive a 914 with seats in it. beerchug.gif

Order two steel seat adjuster handles fro 914 Rubber and be done with it. Those old alloy ones break regularly.


Yes center hand brake should be cool. agree.gif

Since I just installed the shifter linkage the other day I can now check it so thanks for asking. Shifter fully back and brake up to match. Picture shows got about an inch, but I doubt the brake is that high when pulled up, have to see and that's another whole project. blink.gif

I will get right on the 914 Rubber seat handles thanks for that too! beerchug.gif

Click to view attachment
Larmo63
I thought the same exact thing that Mark said in his comment about the oil line loop. I doubt the loop hurts anything, but a direct connection does look possible.
maf914
QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 25 2017, 03:15 PM) *

QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 25 2017, 01:27 PM) *

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 25 2017, 01:04 AM) *

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?


maf914,I used a scrap of 50x50x5 box section (RHS) cut and sectioned to make an angle,the reason I choose this was because the 5mm thinkness is basically correct to support the bush,I may have added an extra snap ring as a spacer but can't remember offhand.

It takes a bit of setup time but wasn't too hard,as I had a longer rod made up I decided to add another uni-joint to further help rod alignment ,you need to cut a hole in the rear of the plastic cover for obvious reasons.
I got the oil impregnated bushes from a seller on ebay.
Hope that helps.


Porschetub thanks for all the info I was wondering too how it was made and was glad maf914 asked. I am not sure who I know could make this but the piece is a really good idea.


Yes, thank you Porschetub for the explanation. Chris at Tangerine Racing offers a kit that adds double bushings at the shift console, and Mark Henry and Brant have posted threads and photos of their custom double bushing installations. All good information.
Lucky9146
QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 26 2017, 05:50 AM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 25 2017, 03:15 PM) *

QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 25 2017, 01:27 PM) *

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 25 2017, 01:04 AM) *

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?


maf914,I used a scrap of 50x50x5 box section (RHS) cut and sectioned to make an angle,the reason I choose this was because the 5mm thinkness is basically correct to support the bush,I may have added an extra snap ring as a spacer but can't remember offhand.

It takes a bit of setup time but wasn't too hard,as I had a longer rod made up I decided to add another uni-joint to further help rod alignment ,you need to cut a hole in the rear of the plastic cover for obvious reasons.
I got the oil impregnated bushes from a seller on ebay.
Hope that helps.


Porschetub thanks for all the info I was wondering too how it was made and was glad maf914 asked. I am not sure who I know could make this but the piece is a really good idea.


Yes, thank you Porschetub for the explanation. Chris at Tangerine Racing offers a kit that adds double bushings at the shift console, and Mark Henry and Brant have posted threads and photos of their custom double bushing installations. All good information.


That's what I like about this site is you can learn something new almost every day. Never heard of Tangerine Racing. Went and looked at the kit. Wonder if you could buy just pieces? Also did not know that Mark and Brant had made them too. Thanks maf914
porschetub
QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 27 2017, 07:07 AM) *

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 26 2017, 05:50 AM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 25 2017, 03:15 PM) *

QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 25 2017, 01:27 PM) *

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 25 2017, 01:04 AM) *

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?


maf914,I used a scrap of 50x50x5 box section (RHS) cut and sectioned to make an angle,the reason I choose this was because the 5mm thinkness is basically correct to support the bush,I may have added an extra snap ring as a spacer but can't remember offhand.

It takes a bit of setup time but wasn't too hard,as I had a longer rod made up I decided to add another uni-joint to further help rod alignment ,you need to cut a hole in the rear of the plastic cover for obvious reasons.
I got the oil impregnated bushes from a seller on ebay.
Hope that helps.


Porschetub thanks for all the info I was wondering too how it was made and was glad maf914 asked. I am not sure who I know could make this but the piece is a really good idea.


Yes, thank you Porschetub for the explanation. Chris at Tangerine Racing offers a kit that adds double bushings at the shift console, and Mark Henry and Brant have posted threads and photos of their custom double bushing installations. All good information.


That's what I like about this site is you can learn something new almost every day. Never heard of Tangerine Racing. Went and looked at the kit. Wonder if you could buy just pieces? Also did not know that Mark and Brant had made them too. Thanks maf914


I did ask Chris if he would sell me the dual bush console casting ,he replied promply and politely saying the part wasn't sold on its own.
I have his firewall bush and already had a converted shift shaft reason for not needing the whole kit.
ACP911
Hello 914/6 Gurus and LUCKY...

Well this thread is very impressive and for most of you but couple of individuals, you are experiencing this through this thread, for the very very lucky few, the original owner from time to time and also ME, we have the opportunity to see his amazing work in person and let me tell you, WOW is an understatement. Very meticulous, methodical, well planned and must admit, excessively planned at times, but that is what makes him who he is......

Well done my friend... All I can say is, I am thankful to have met you and get to experience your work first hand. Can't wait for the ride in this beauty....

GG w/85 M491 bye1.gif
beerchug.gif
porschetub
QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Sep 26 2017, 12:15 PM) *

QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 25 2017, 01:27 PM) *

QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 25 2017, 01:04 AM) *

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?


maf914,I used a scrap of 50x50x5 box section (RHS) cut and sectioned to make an angle,the reason I choose this was because the 5mm thinkness is basically correct to support the bush,I may have added an extra snap ring as a spacer but can't remember offhand.

It takes a bit of setup time but wasn't too hard,as I had a longer rod made up I decided to add another uni-joint to further help rod alignment ,you need to cut a hole in the rear of the plastic cover for obvious reasons.
I got the oil impregnated bushes from a seller on ebay.
Hope that helps.


Porschetub thanks for all the info I was wondering too how it was made and was glad maf914 asked. I am not sure who I know could make this but the piece is a really good idea.


Oh come on Jim what you have done and achieved with this conversion you would ''knock it over" easy,it seems to really tighten things up and and provide a better reference to the shift gate if all is adjusted properly....key point.
Go for it aktion035.gif .
maf914
Here is a link to the thread where Porschetub, Mark and Brant provided photos of their double bushing linkage installations:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...&hl=linkage

And here is a photo of the linkage kit that J-West offered in the past:

Lucky9146
QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 27 2017, 06:47 AM) *

Here is a link to the thread where Porschetub, Mark and Brant provided photos of their double bushing linkage installations:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...&hl=linkage

And here is a photo of the linkage kit that J-West offered in the past:


Very helpful and thanks for posting in my thread much appreciated! beerchug.gif
I will look further into double bushing sure looks much more robust and thanks to Porschetub for raising the issue. beerchug.gif
Lots of good help here.
Lucky9146
Have been close to installing my rear axle shafts to the tranny and was awaiting the gaskets when this timely thread appeared and proved quite helpful to me and I am sure the thread originator! Perry Keihl specifically addressed some of my questions. beerchug.gif Thanks!
Who knew? "Schnoor washers" learning all the time idea.gif type.gif

Thought it would be good to link in here.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=316867
Lucky9146
QUOTE(ACP911 @ Sep 26 2017, 12:46 PM) *

Hello 914/6 Gurus and LUCKY...

Well this thread is very impressive and for most of you but couple of individuals, you are experiencing this through this thread, for the very very lucky few, the original owner from time to time and also ME, we have the opportunity to see his amazing work in person and let me tell you, WOW is an understatement. Very meticulous, methodical, well planned and must admit, excessively planned at times, but that is what makes him who he is......

Well done my friend... All I can say is, I am thankful to have met you and get to experience your work first hand. Can't wait for the ride in this beauty....

GG w/85 M491 bye1.gif
beerchug.gif


Thanks ACP911 for looking in and you will get the first ride and then YOU will want a 914-6 guaranteed. slap.gif
Also since you signed up on World you will learn what a great site this is because of the people and support first.gif beerchug.gif
Lucky9146
One last point on the work I had done back in Oct 2015 in the interior post #248 above.

Did you notice the long next to the driver seat?
Since I will have a center pull E-brake I went ahead and took that scallop out of the long next to the driver seat where the E-brake lever originally was. Now nice and straight and clean just like the passenger side.

But upon finally looking at the interior again I found that I have lots yet to do in there. I also found vinyl that I had installed on that cross rail hadn’t stuck well and was curling up and peeling off so will have to re-do that too, as well as finish installing all the rest of the vinyl, and carpet, and trim, and, and, and……………………………
Click to view attachment

Back to the engine, got some parts!
white914.jpg
Lucky9146
Hooked up my engine wiring the other night, took like 2 minutes. smile.gif

That’s because when I did the Perry Keihl wiring harness with his super cool 14 pin connector for the chassis wiring I got the idea idea.gif to make things easier when I did install the engine so I spent the time to add my own quick connectors.

Yes, those are indeed trailer type pin connectors for my MSD ignition wires. Took a bit of extra planning but should engine removal be required in the future it’s a snap to disconnect. Could not find a 6 pin so used a 4 pin and 2 pin. white914.jpg
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment



whitetwinturbo
...........way cool connector biggrin.gif
jd74914
Quick disconnects are always nice. smile.gif

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but I've never had any positive experiences with flat trailer connectors and it seems like a shame to use them on a build of this quality. They don't really positively lock and are pretty easy to damage. The might work OK for you, but if they don't consider switching to something like a 6 pin Delphi Weatherpack connector. They're inexpensive (~$5-10 for both sides, the terminals, and seals), don't require a super special crimper (very important if you're doing just one), and have a nice positive locking catch so the can't come loose with vibration.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-GM-6-Pin-We...A-/230864494085

mepstein
Lucky - I like the idea, a lot.
Tony/cracker’s setup throughout his car. Awesome
Lucky9146
QUOTE(jd74914 @ Sep 29 2017, 10:14 AM) *

Quick disconnects are always nice. smile.gif

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but I've never had any positive experiences with flat trailer connectors and it seems like a shame to use them on a build of this quality. They don't really positively lock and are pretty easy to damage. The might work OK for you, but if they don't consider switching to something like a 6 pin Delphi Weatherpack connector. They're inexpensive (~$5-10 for both sides, the terminals, and seals), don't require a super special crimper (very important if you're doing just one), and have a nice positive locking catch so the can't come loose with vibration.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-GM-6-Pin-We...A-/230864494085


jd74914 Thanks for the link and suggestion agree.gif My parade is fine just a sprinkle here. biggrin.gif
Thanks also for the comment on my build! Much appreciated. beerchug.gif

2 years ago when I set that all up I have to admit I did not look real hard for a 6 pin mostly because I was looking at trailer connectors and went for it. Spent hours in the engine bay soldering it all in, when it was easy, with no engine installed. And a lot of time on the harness soldering that end on when it was right in front of me.
,
It is always good to find out there are perfect products out there even though a little late for me headbang.gif
Maybe someone else coming along can use the information you provided and who knows down the road if my engine comes back out a Delphi would go in. My connector will live tucked up under the lip aft of the engine lid opening where they should be out of sight unless you lean over to look.

white914.jpg
moparrob
Jim, just think of all the amazing information you have learned during the process of this build – which you can hopefully apply when I send you my next car for you to build for me. biggrin.gif beerchug.gif
Larmo63
You could use a little safety wire on the trailer plug....?

Suspenders AND a belt?

Lucky9146
QUOTE(moparrob @ Sep 29 2017, 04:10 PM) *

Jim, just think of all the amazing information you have learned during the process of this build – which you can hopefully apply when I send you my next car for you to build for me. biggrin.gif beerchug.gif


Cool I was hoping for a turbo next! idea.gif cool.gif beerchug.gif
Lucky9146
QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 29 2017, 04:18 PM) *

You could use a little safety wire on the trailer plug....?

Suspenders AND a belt?


Done! and thanks for the call the other nite good info chatsmiley.gif
Lucky9146
Who knew? shades.gif

Have been stopped now on right hand carb install now for a few days. Need to fashion a new fuel line in the engine compartment and have been looking at options and rounding up materials. PO ran an AN Alum hard line from the gas tank all the way back to the engine with good bends and connections, it looked great! He couldn’t have known it would interfere with the rain hat which sucks because it looked like such a clean direct install! first.gif

Then when I was doing MY work in the engine compartment I never even gave it a second thought, and on top of that I even ty-wrapped wires to the line, as it certainly looked as though it was out of the way. confused24.gif

Have to admit I do like the look of hard lines but Larmo63 makes a good point about the flexibility of his blue fuel lines. idea.gif

Will post the follow on solution hopefully soon. white914.jpg

All looked good till the engine went in.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Larmo63
It seems as if you could bend it to go under the rain hat pretty easily???
Lucky9146
QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Sep 30 2017, 01:38 PM) *

It seems as if you could bend it to go under the rain hat pretty easily???



It sure does.......but Um No.

Unbending 90's? Tried. But thanks.
Keith914
Just catching up on your progress. You may have put the shift rod brass bushing that is in the front of the tranny bracket backwards. This can prevent the rods moving to the rear for 2nd and fourth so that you can't quite complete these shifts.
Keith914
Just looked at your post 247 again - your shift rod is different from mine (Tangerine), so you may not have a problem as I did.
Lucky9146
QUOTE(Keith914 @ Sep 30 2017, 02:42 PM) *

Just catching up on your progress. You may have put the shift rod brass bushing that is in the front of the tranny bracket backwards. This can prevent the rods moving to the rear for 2nd and fourth so that you can't quite complete these shifts.


Made me look
Post #237 shows placement of my brass bushing. The arm on the trans would not move in the direction of the bushing if installed reversed from what is shown. Seems to go OK through all the gears as installed just re-checked!
Thanks for weighing in.

Lucky9146
QUOTE(Keith914 @ Sep 30 2017, 02:45 PM) *

Just looked at your post 247 again - your shift rod is different from mine (Tangerine), so you may not have a problem as I did.


Post #247 is Porschetub 's set up showing what he did with double bushings. Wish I had that! Mine is post #237
Lucky9146
Received my rear axle gaskets and found some Schnorr washers (which was a new word for me and makes me chuckle). Good news is the rear axles are together after a lot of cleaning, it was a greasy mess to do, as I am sure many here know. I was not planning to show any pictures because everyone has seen rear axles.

However I did address what the axles looked like. They were powder coated black many years ago and had been hung on coat hangers over time which ended up removing the powder coating in several areas. Was not looking forward to trying to remove the remaining powder coating thinking it would be a real challenge. To my surprise, moisture had apparently worked under all the powder coating and they were rusty underneath, making coating removal fairly simple. Maybe they were not prepped well first? Cleaned up the rust and coated with silver Por 15 always intending to paint them black again, but I think I like the silver!
white914.jpg
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
raynekat
Yes, the previous powder coating on your axles must have been a very poor quality as usually it's very difficult to remove powder coating. It just doesn't slough off easily likes yours seemed to do.
Lucky9146
Small steps!
Got the left MSDS header installed today. I need some parts that are on order before I can install the right header. sad.gif
Unfortunately that right header will be in the way for what I have to do.

So this gave me a an opportunity to explore the much anticipated PO’s idea for a center pull hand brake. As an aside I have a good buddy with a 6 conversion who is jealous as hell about the center pull hand brake AND the quad gage (hope he sees this).

PO had the cables made and all the new attaching hardware! Nice. beerchug.gif

The concern of course was the hand brake cable routing past the header with the cable now coming out of the center of the rear bulk head
The cable is just to the right of the shifter rod and ends up upper left below the red spring.
Click to view attachment

Cable routing went pretty well with the exception of being a tad close to the header in only one location. Routes up over shifter rod and header and over to brake.
I’ll figure something out to shield it
Click to view attachment

It actually looks closer than it is in the 3rd picture.
Click to view attachment

Length seems good too. Got ‘er all hooked up and it should work as imagined! Can’t do the full handle pull test without both cables installed. Dang

Livin’ The Dream! Thanks moparrob It Worked. bye1.gif
white914.jpg
Larmo63
I have two 911 E-brake cables for a center pull brake set up, but I don't think I will explore the idea.

Not that it's a bad idea, but the 914 set up works fine.
Lucky9146
QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Oct 3 2017, 09:29 PM) *

I have two 911 E-brake cables for a center pull brake set up, but I don't think I will explore the idea.

Not that it's a bad idea, but the 914 set up works fine.


I believe the concept was for making an e-brake turn in rally driving. Then you are able to use your right hand for e- brake and shift with left hand on the steering wheel.

According to my rally driving friend. Very awkward to make an e-brake turn with left hand e-brake. This is why he is jealous. biggrin.gif

Never done this myself and really have no plans for it, but the option is now there and it seems much more instinctive to utilize a center pull hand brake. driving.gif
white914.jpg
moparrob
Actually, the reason for this mounting was because this wide seats I had chosen, from a 964 Porsche, would not allow access to the handbrake on the left side. Also, uphill starts using the handbrake are much more intuitive with a center handbrake.
914forme
The reference was based off the original Rallye Prepped 914-6GTs that had center tunnel mount for just this reason. Easier to find the dang thing when it is out in the open. Also the original early hand brake folded, so it would be even more of a pain to use.

Now modern Rallye cars us cutter brakes that actuate the brakes on that side our rear. In reality it could now be done via electronics, via the stability control system. In this case you would have to change the acronym and make it IICS (Intentional Instability Control System) As your making the car unstable to induce the intend rotation.

Carry on neat layout. I would add some heat sleeves on the cables and SS safety wire to keep them from burning. Might confused24.gif increase the life span confused24.gif You never know until you get it running and start using the cables.

Jeff Hail has the best setup I have seen for this. He used to 914 Pass side cables, that allowed for plenty of cable to route along the firewall, and out to the caliper down the trailing arm for a factory look and routed installation.

If you have not read his thread it is a classic. Great Read and full of very useful information.
mepstein
QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 5 2017, 08:08 AM) *

The reference was based off the original Rallye Prepped 914-6GTs that had center tunnel mount for just this reason. Easier to find the dang thing when it is out in the open. Also the original early hand brake folded, so it would be even more of a pain to use.

Now modern Rallye cars us cutter brakes that actuate the brakes on that side our rear. In reality it could now be done via electronics, via the stability control system. In this case you would have to change the acronym and make it IICS (Intentional Instability Control System) As your making the car unstable to induce the intend rotation.

Carry on neat layout. I would add some heat sleeves on the cables and SS safety wire to keep them from burning. Might confused24.gif increase the life span confused24.gif You never know until you get it running and start using the cables.

Jeff Hail has the best setup I have seen for this. He used to 914 Pass side cables, that allowed for plenty of cable to route along the firewall, and out to the caliper down the trailing arm for a factory look and routed installation.

If you have not read his thread it is a classic. Great Read and full of very useful information.

agree.gif I am copying his setup.
914forme
QUOTE(mepstein @ Oct 5 2017, 08:11 AM) *

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 5 2017, 08:08 AM) *


Jeff Hail has the best setup I have seen for this. He used to 914 Pass side cables, that allowed for plenty of cable to route along the firewall, and out to the caliper down the trailing arm for a factory look and routed installation.

If you have not read his thread it is a classic. Great Read and full of very useful information.

agree.gif I am copying his setup.


shades.gif Already liberated Jeff's idea on the EG build even used the same seals the firewall. In my normal way of making things to complicated I started mocking up the tubes to go through the firewall like the factory would have done it. Saw Jeff's setup and headbang.gif keep it simple. headbang.gif
Lucky9146
QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 5 2017, 05:08 AM) *

The reference was based off the original Rallye Prepped 914-6GTs that had center tunnel mount for just this reason. Easier to find the dang thing when it is out in the open. Also the original early hand brake folded, so it would be even more of a pain to use.

Now modern Rallye cars us cutter brakes that actuate the brakes on that side our rear. In reality it could now be done via electronics, via the stability control system. In this case you would have to change the acronym and make it IICS (Intentional Instability Control System) As your making the car unstable to induce the intend rotation.

Carry on neat layout. I would add some heat sleeves on the cables and SS safety wire to keep them from burning. Might confused24.gif increase the life span confused24.gif You never know until you get it running and start using the cables.

Jeff Hail has the best setup I have seen for this. He used to 914 Pass side cables, that allowed for plenty of cable to route along the firewall, and out to the caliper down the trailing arm for a factory look and routed installation.

If you have not read his thread it is a classic. Great Read and full of very useful information.



Thanks for all the info including the Jeff Hail link! Like you said great read. type.gif
Yes I will be adding the heat sleeves soon.
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Lucky9146
Nits and Nats
Just returned from a trip but before leaving I spent some time getting a bunch of small parts ordered from several suppliers. Little crap that was holding me up on several fronts.
As my thread title says “Finishing A 914-6 GT Conversion Project” I am now (hopefully) down to just the small stuff for finishing it up as you can see.

Waiting for me to open were 4 packages! So it was like a 914 Christmas. santa_smiley.gif

PMS clutch pulley buy was encouraged by Larma63, so why not. I had looked at it a couple years back trying to justify it and had input saying the stock one would work but I am right there now, so new pulley it is!

Timing decal, which I always wanted but could not figure out where to get it from, was a lead from Defianty all the way over in the UK. He first suggested a Polish company and that wasn’t working out so well for me and then he suggested of all places Sierra Madre right up the road. How cool is that! Have to add I have not gone to Sierra Madre in the past but will scrutinize their site in the future.

Then there is often offered GB from 914 Rubber which of course leads to additional “stuff”. biggrin.gif

My usual “go to” site is EBS Racing where I have spent the majority of my dollars and a great company to deal with.

It’s the help and suggestions from others that make this site so great. beerchug.gif
On we go white914.jpg
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defianty
Always nice getting 914 bits in the mail!

Glad you found the fan sticker. It's a nice finishing piece. It almost felt like a stamp of approval when I fitted mine laugh.gif
Mark Henry
QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Oct 3 2017, 12:13 AM) *

Small steps!
Got the left MSDS header installed today. I need some parts that are on order before I can install the right header. sad.gif
Unfortunately that right header will be in the way for what I have to do.

So this gave me a an opportunity to explore the much anticipated PO’s idea for a center pull hand brake. As an aside I have a good buddy with a 6 conversion who is jealous as hell about the center pull hand brake AND the quad gage (hope he sees this).

PO had the cables made and all the new attaching hardware! Nice. beerchug.gif

The concern of course was the hand brake cable routing past the header with the cable now coming out of the center of the rear bulk head
The cable is just to the right of the shifter rod and ends up upper left below the red spring.
Click to view attachment

Cable routing went pretty well with the exception of being a tad close to the header in only one location. Routes up over shifter rod and header and over to brake.
I’ll figure something out to shield it
Click to view attachment

It actually looks closer than it is in the 3rd picture.
Click to view attachment

Length seems good too. Got ‘er all hooked up and it should work as imagined! Can’t do the full handle pull test without both cables installed. Dang

Livin’ The Dream! Thanks moparrob It Worked. bye1.gif
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That ebrake cable is nowhere near as close to the header once the car is on the ground and there's a load on the suspension.
Lucky9146
QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Oct 11 2017, 04:16 AM) *

QUOTE(Lucky9146 @ Oct 3 2017, 12:13 AM) *

Small steps!
Got the left MSDS header installed today. I need some parts that are on order before I can install the right header. sad.gif
Unfortunately that right header will be in the way for what I have to do.

So this gave me a an opportunity to explore the much anticipated PO’s idea for a center pull hand brake. As an aside I have a good buddy with a 6 conversion who is jealous as hell about the center pull hand brake AND the quad gage (hope he sees this).

PO had the cables made and all the new attaching hardware! Nice. beerchug.gif

The concern of course was the hand brake cable routing past the header with the cable now coming out of the center of the rear bulk head
The cable is just to the right of the shifter rod and ends up upper left below the red spring.
Click to view attachment

Cable routing went pretty well with the exception of being a tad close to the header in only one location. Routes up over shifter rod and header and over to brake.
I’ll figure something out to shield it
Click to view attachment

It actually looks closer than it is in the 3rd picture.
Click to view attachment

Length seems good too. Got ‘er all hooked up and it should work as imagined! Can’t do the full handle pull test without both cables installed. Dang

Livin’ The Dream! Thanks moparrob It Worked. bye1.gif
white914.jpg


That ebrake cable is nowhere near as close to the header once the car is on the ground and there's a load on the suspension.


Thanks Mark! Good catch and now I have some inappropriately placed ty-wraps that will be removed today. I have to admit I totally did not catch that! Duh headbang.gif Not sure what I was thinking.
Seriously, thank you for weighing in. beerchug.gif
Lucky9146
Frustration the last couple days. sad.gif
We all experience frustration at one time or another going through this process of 6 conversion. With my last purchases of bits and pieces I can’t believe I already have another list going. Does it ever stop? headbang.gif

Some of the small parts I recently got worked ok. PMS clutch pulley is on, so the clutch is complete, and somewhat adjusted. Trans ground strap was good too and now with new fill drain plugs installed the trans is full of Swepco 201. smile.gif

One thing bugging me is the accelerator cable. Can’t figure out where the hell I got the darn thing and I am not sure it is the right one, it just doesn't look right to me. idea.gif Going to continue to install but may need another one of those.

Timing decal I bought from Sierra Madre turned out to be the wrong one. It was SC all right, but ROW SC, so now have found where I can get the correct one, or closer to it, and have to order that one now. Sierra Madre did not have the correct one. shades.gif

My hats off to those of you who have successfully installed the washer and nut on the right side carb under the accelerator pump. pray.gif pray.gif I know it can be done but really? I'll get it.

Definitely needed some positive progress today after fighting the right header on last night. I was pretty stoked about the idea of installing my ceramic coated new Dansk muffler so I want to share that. The install went ok, I wouldn’t go so far as problem free, but it is on there! smile.gif I know silver ceramic is not "correct" but I love the look and kind of goes wit the headers. Will be eventually hidden by MSDS flare rear valance anyway.
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