Finished the Rear Valance install late last night!

Gas going in now


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Better post a picture of the ale then so I know you didn't make it up!

Bringing it to San Clemente C&C tomorrow?

^ +1

and he is using proper clamps that won't cut into the fuel hose!

Thanks Jeff it looks a bit "clampy" but so far no leaks and I like the way it turned out.
Wanted to keep it up on jack stands so I could actually see all the fittings with gas in the tank. The other line coming down is a length of AN tube for a drain that comes to the edge of the hole for easy access should I ever need to drain the tank it will be a nice clean shot.
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Coming off jack stands today!

UH that would be a stretch. I am sure there will be some bugs to work out before I venture too far. Thanks for the thought though.

Saw your PM I will keep you posted. Thanks!

I posted a separate thread this morning regarding my fuel tank coating, Red Kote, as I was concerned and looking for a wider audience.

I am posting the link http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=324029
so folks who are interested can look at the positive responses I got on using this coating and to provide an update.
Damon also suggested, for my peace of mind, filling the tank with gas, letting it sit over night, and then drain it back out and re-fill again with new fresh gas. So that is what is happening now. Supposedly this will help eliminate the majority of pinkishness in the fuel. Based on the input I received I will use the overnight removed fuel in my driver car.


This is suppose to be the best product on the market.
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I had this done at my "go to" radiator shop locally about 2 years ago and when I had it boiled out and some welding done. Now keep in mind I am just now getting to the point of firing this car up for the first time so NO GAS was in the tank until now. After putting some fuel in, as a precautionary check, I decided to drain some fuel from the tank to see whatever I could from the drained fuel and it had a reddish tinge.

Called Damon Inc the manufacturer, this morning and spoke to the technical people and was told this is normal just the die coming off and will cause no harm they get this call all the time. BUT if were RED then that would be a problem. The red dye added to the coating to allow you to visually see that you have it fully coated vs. having it clear and not being able to tell the coverage.

Been a super frustrating weekend of fighting fuel line leaks and fuel contamination. Not entirely sure the leaks are totally behind me.
Glad I had the car back up on jack stands (never thought I would say that) for draining and filling the tank, it sure helped. Did a flush of the fuel line back to just before carbs and found debris in the fuel coming out, twice! Keep in mind I have a good size Holly fuel filter after the tank located in the front trunk and just before the Holly 125 fuel pump, also in the frunk.

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The good news is the pinkish hue to the gas is now completely gone but where all the little shit in the fuel line is coming from beats me. I've decided, as extra protection, I am going to install 2 additional "pre-filters" after my splitter and just before the carbs. Probably look stupid, I don't care, should be temporary. Too much invested in these carbs and engine to take any chances. I remember Forrest dealing with carb contamination issues.

Maybe off the jack stands tomorrow, but is is suppose to rain, maybe not.

Hang in there Jim. So close to the finish line.

From what I remember of the blur of my first "fire-up" day, I put about 2 gallons of gas in the tank and started it.

You might be over analyzing it. Leaks are bad for sure and need to be addressed, but get it started and drive it.

I check all of my car's systems constantly, and it seems to be consistently solid.

Hanging but that dang finish line is so elusive.

Jim-

ALMOST!!!

Weather permitting get some test miles during the week and let's plan a Cars & Coffee debut in OC. Crystal Cove preferred...I have an appointment near there this coming Sat morning.



Oscar

Thanks I would love to get it started and drive it. Believe me.
Happy to hear that things went well on your first startup. Recall this car has been off the road for over 20 years and had a previous owner do some of the work on conversion. Not blaming him for anything just providing some history.

That said there has been a small weeping that I thought was the fitting on the inlet side of the fuel pump. Drained the fuel tank changed the fitting, still weeping yesterday morning. Appears to be from this split line.
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So I tried to tighten the 3 allen head screws underneath for that cap yesterday and they were tight. Still weeping this morning.

Called Holly technical this morning and explained the fuel pump has been mounted in position for 5 to 6 years and just saw fuel for the first time mid Jan of this year. He did not offer much other than to say it had dried out. Hmmmm seems to me pumps when new without fuel could sit on the shelf for years and be ok? He agreed!
Without proof of purchase all he could do was recommend a rebuild kit. Can't just get the gasket.

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Tried to find one locally but after 9 calls, ordered from Summit.

Damn gasoline, that stuff screws everything up.

Yes, especially when it ignites inside the automobile at the least opportune time.

It was actually quite surprising how much you could smell the fumes in the trunk from such a slow seepage, there was no dripping. You could see the bottom of the pump moist at times and wipe it away and it would take hours to look like that again so that tells me that a good part of it was evaporating. The groove around that split line I discovered, would stay wet, and wiping it dry it would fill up again relatively quickly. Down low in the trunk made diagnosing difficult. The hood has been mostly open allowing air circulation in the trunk but when it was closed for a while days or hours you could really smell fumes when opened again.

It is a shame there is no real estate to install a manual tank shut off at the fuel line tank outlet before the Holly filter and pump. Believe me I have looked and a major re-plumb would be needed.

I had my 67 bug burn in 1995. Probably why I may be a bit more cautious than most. Gas sure screwed this one up at an inopportune time! Still have that car, restored it again.

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Sounds fantastic Oscar but I kinda doubt it. I do like the optimistic time frame on getting it running and sorted out for a 70 mile run up there!
Few other things going on around here besides the car too.
Finish line, I think I see it! Keep you posted
Waiting parts as usual.

Jim-

Sure, I'm like Tom Bodett of Motel 6, "we'll leave the light on for you"


Family and safety first...then 914's

Oscar

I did my fuel line set up like yours from underneath and yes it can be done,good move on the filters,I plan on fitting a second one in the near future,an all metal one nearer to the engine is my plan.
I was very fortunate to have a tank that was pristine inside,hell even the suction pipe filter was clean.
I have a regular pre-check of fuel line hoses and clamps before I start up ,only takes a few minutes better safe than sorry eh.
Jim I hope all your little nagging issues are sorted soon .

Learning more than I want to about this Holly 125 fuel pump.

Just got off the phone again with Holly technical and learned the fuel pump MUST be mounted vertically or it will wear the main shaft (non-replaceable) and could actually have been the cause of this leaking I am experiencing and trying to fix. A few degrees OK but this is at 23 degrees and he says that is too much and should be corrected.
Sounds simple enough.

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This shot below shows there are 3 bolts holding the pump bracket, 2 on the left and one on the right.
The nuts to these bolts are on the other side of the bulkhead and inaccessible so this means the gas tank comes out once again.
Then need figure out how to mount it vertically and re-make 2 AN6 fuel lines.
Fun

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Tank is out again

I sure get what the PO Moparrob was trying to do and the limitations he had of locating the fuel filter and pump either side of the vertical spare and keep it gravity fed. Going to take me a bit of time to get this to work now.

On the bright side Holly people are really responsive and willing to take the time to help you with whatever you are dealing with regarding their products. Inner workings of the pump are kinda cool

Fabricated this bracket and it will do the trick.
Provides minimal clearance on both sides when installed, swings the bottom of the pump out at almost the same height it was, pump will still be securely attached, enables removal of the pump without removing the gas tank, and with new tighter AN fittings still allows room for the spare tire to be vertical mounted! Win, win, win, win, win.
Mounting and plumbing in progress! Pictures to follow.


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I can't wait to catch up to you.
Most excellent color choice !

Well come on!
You know that shell is kinda purdy, like a clean canvas. Best to you on your project I will stay tuned. Are you going white too? Thanks for looking in.

Black top. glued/bolted in place.
No appearance group.
Will look like the cheapest stripper '70.....even body color bumpers.
Carbed 3.0 , 915, probably AC etc.etc.
Still plenty to do.

Finished up the fuel pump re-install with new seals. Tank and fuel back in.
No Leaks. Pump works!
Onward!


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You are a stud! Great job on the fuel lines also.

Nice work on that fuel pump bracket Jim. Very tidy.

Thanks Rob and Stephen on the lines and bracket. An unplanned set back for sure, with the design and fabrication of the par,t but well worth it, and it even resulted in a few other benefits. One of which is that with the new mounting I have a better way to secure the trunk board and I was able to install a much improved fuel tank drain shut off.

Saturday added oil, 11 quarts to begin with, Removed the spark plugs to allow the engine to rotate more freely for first cranking to verify oil pressure and circulate the oil. Sorted through some more electrical issues with a lot of trouble shooting.

Sunday finished trouble shooting and then fabricated a new battery cable and fit. I even incorporated the battery terminal from 914 Rubber to top it off. Much better set up!

The car is still on jack stands at the suggestion of my buddy toolguy in the event of any oil leaks. Good idea!

FIRST CRANK, still with still no plugs yielded 25 psi oil pressure! No oil leaks! The thing isn't even running yet, but you have no idea what it was like to see and hear the engine cranking on starter, see the oil pressure building on my quad guage and look through the engine cabin access panel to see the engine turning. Big deal, in that as I have said many times, electrical is not my strong suit. Have learned an awful lot with this project and am more comfortable now. Not to mention building the engine myself.

After helping a neighbor all morning with his patio cover roof, I worked most of the day even missing, unfortunately, the majority of the Datona 500.
But it was worth it with the progress I made. Between the new battery cable and half the engine compartment fuel lines complete I am much closer. As I mentioned earlier I am incorporating "pre filters" from the regulator to the carbs as a safeguard further complicating my set up.

Have an opportunity to spend time with granddaughters today so that trumps things here and I just may take the time to install the Mark Henry Ford starter solenoid before coming off the jack stands. So we'll see. Almost there!

Today started off pretty good! Thinking this IS the big day! Just a few things to get ready.
And finished up the fuel hoses in the engine compartment. Check!
Finished up the Mark Henry starter solenoid install and it looks and works great! Check!

Off jacks stands is next.


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One more setback! Kind of a biggie this time.

Man, this is getting old.

Was about to take it off the jack stands to fire it up and decided it might be smart, since I can run the fuel pump from a switch as I was doing to flush the system, to run the fuel pump now that they are hooked to the carbs and will have back pressure. I would then see what kind of fuel pressure I have and check all around and underneath the car for fuel leaks.

Right away there is a problem with the right carb, it seems to be leaking on the inboard side up high under the rain hat base. Weird. I can’t see where or why? Called my carb guy a couple times as we troubleshot the problem Further trouble shoot disassembly and removal of the rain hat and it is leaking past the seals and he wants the carb back, says its a bugger to fix, so off it came. Sucks.

Kinda like that Seinfeld episode “no soup for you!” No start for me!


Fuel was seeping past the seals here, blue arrows, getting the whole inboard side of the carb wet, and it would saturate pretty quickly.
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Damn! That old girl is fighting you every inch of the way.

Perhaps Roland put a hex on it or it is possessed?

How long before the carb comes home?

I may need to whip up a new batch of ale since I drank the old batch while waiting for you...

Ya ya like there really was a "batch" in the first place.
Yup every inch of the way.

On the bright side I have good fuel pressure and no leaks in the lines.

Carb ships out tomorrow to Salem OR, said he would turn it right around.
Great guy takes his work very seriously probably as frustrated or more than me. Pulling that carb was absolutely no fun!

OK, I am going to be optimistic and tentatively schedule the start up celebration for Saturday March 3rd.

I'll be at the L.A. Lit Swap most of the day, won't you? Hope to see you there!

Since there will be a bit of down time now, well there is always something I can do on the car, thought I would share this story regarding what I like to call the "Mark Henry Ford starter solenoid".
As I was rounding you the bits to do the install I quickly realized I did not have any 10 guage wire that Mark prescribes.

Funny how your mind works because right then I remembered I still have in a box, on the top shelf, all the way in the back, the Sun Tach from my first car, a 68 Camaro RS. Yup and there it was 10 guage red wire. Never had another car I needed it for. yet!

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I first it sitting at Pacific raceway, Kent ,WA. it was sporting Type 4 sale engine.
Secomd time I saw it it had noengine and I sold the bodyshop a replacement tail panel..something about rolling out of the garage backwards

Looks Great

That is an easy fix if it is leaking under the brass hex cap. The cap has a shoulder under the head that centers the copper washer. Sometimes the shoulder is “thicker” than the washer and the shoulder bottoms in the threads before closing on the washer. Simple fix to file the shoulder down a bit so it does not bottom before the washer seals.

BTDT

The last one I fixed it was the carb body itself had a few dings from over the years,, made a round flat piece with some 220 and lapped it flat.. and this was after total rebuild rebush re dip..
always use a new al. sealing washer

That picture you posted is in front of the PO moparrob's house and how it looked when I bought it from him in 2013. Very cool to find out YOU sold the replacement tail panel to Eurotech. I have heard about the accident and rolling into a tree.

If you have any other info on the car I am always looking and it is great to hear that you saw it at the track back then. The Washington owner had a super built 4 he was very proud of.

I have been in communication with the Washington owner from time to time and have been working on him to provide pictures from "back in the day" with the 4. He has shared a few so far, and I am hoping for more.

Below is a picture from that track you mentioned in Kent, I think.

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I suggested trying to fix it here to my carb guy and he really wants to see it because he bench tests each one and is truly puzzled that it leaks. He has quite the machine shop from what I gather and he talked specifically about the machining he does in that area.
Apparently he has had very few problems with his work and really stands behind it. For what I paid him to completely go through them they should be right so I agreed it is best he do it. Thanks and I appreciate your input.

Yes, on my pic buts exactly like the one I took @ Kent,, sunny day top of goofy red rollbar... I look for the pic.

I would be interested to hear how it came to be that you supplied the replacement tail panel to that body shop? Was it to Eurotech in Kirkland? Maybe that body shop was a different shop than the one that did a lot of the work on his car, including paint, in 1995 which was Eurotech. I have receipts for all that work.

The paint job is still amazing after all these years and a good part of that comes from being it being Imron.

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I know Eurotech personnally and have lots of paint work by them and have done select jobs for them also.

That green car !
Can someone provide the details.
Very cool.

Its mine see it on 914-6GT resource page, jeff hines/jon lowe

Welcome back, Jeff!
It IS a lovely car...I have lusted after it for a while....
Paul

Great looking car, love the color! I will check out the resource page too. I gave Mark at Eurotech a call awhile back to see if he had any recollection or records or pictures of my car. He remembered Roland but had nothing else. Darn! I love gathering history. Thanks for weighing in and I'm heading your way around June, hope to look you up then.

Oh I wondered where that car ended up, I have lots of stories about that one. From the Jon Lowe days.

Had the same issue Jim but left carb leaked ,right hand side was fine,removed and checked caps and sealing rings,the new gasket seals were a tight fit and hadn't seated properly.
The leaked stopped after refitting,I do remember them being very tight when I rebuilt my carbs so think they just needed more torque as the left ones tightened a little more.
This is an issue with the webers as there are on the outside where my Zeniths have them on the inside of the carb top.
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