Here is what I did. I wanted no cutting to the shell at all. The turbo on the drivers side infront of the axle. I just reworked it a little more to add a ducted IC rather than water/air IC since that would involve water and pipework etc etc.
I like tuning/tweaking and fab work (and testing out the results) and have my own AC TIG but it could be simplified and done with MIG only.
I am running a very mild cam, gives great off idle response until the boost takes over and is also less stress on the valve train. My turbo is a smaller GT28R but seems a great match for street. Cheaper T3/4s will do similar I believe, or a plain non ball bearing GT28.
There is no need to go with the equal length curly header. Improving the exh valve flow should help, ditch the Sodium valves. There is also no need for extreme valve springs; keep the valve train light instead if possible. I use MS2 (3 module waiting to be fitted) for control including boost. Be cautious tuning on stock pistons, they wont take much knock but the low STD CR is OK for low boost, add copper head gaskets (gasp!) for more boost.
Even 7psi will feel amazing and you wont need an IC for that.
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