Full Version: Cured: fuel injection problem, not!
I purchased a nice 74 2.0 the previous owner installed a single progressive carb because "fuel injection is crap"
It ran OK but when we installed the stock FI, it ran poorly. I set up a vacuum gauge and it was only pulling 5 mmhg at idle. Not Good! After checking for vacuum leaks we checked valve adjustment, tight! It now pulls 15 and runs great. Brad
QUOTE(914ltd @ Aug 21 2015, 06:20 AM) 
I purchased a nice 74 2.0 the previous owner installed a single progressive carb because "fuel injection is crap"
It ran OK but when we installed the stock FI, it ran poorly. I set up a vacuum gauge and it was only pulling 5 mmhg at idle. Not Good! After checking for vacuum leaks we checked valve adjustment, tight! It now pulls 15 and runs great. Brad
Now you're just bragging.....
Nice work!
QUOTE(914ltd @ Aug 21 2015, 09:20 AM)
I purchased a nice 74 2.0 the previous owner installed a single progressive carb because "fuel injection is crap"
It ran OK but when we installed the stock FI, it ran poorly. I set up a vacuum gauge and it was only pulling 5 mmhg at idle. Not Good! After checking for vacuum leaks we checked valve adjustment, tight! It now pulls 15 and runs great. Brad
Newb here, also with a new '74 with FI and valve adjustment is on the list. Have done it on my 1953 MG TD and 1966 VW bug, but not a 914 yet. I take it you did the valve adjustment with the engine in the car? Any tips?
Kevin
There are a few different ways to do the job. (This has been discussed many times; do a search and you'll see several discussions.)
It may be easiest to do if the engine is out already.
Some people like to remove the exhaust.
Some use the "Cap'n Krusty" method, where you adjust a valve if the corresponding valve on the other side of the engine is open.
Some use the TDC method, where each cylinder gets set to TDC in turn (you can use the flywheel mark and the fan mark to tell, generally) and both valves get set.
Access can be tricky; I find I have to approach the valves from several different angles to get all of them. Several can be reached from aft of the rocker box, usually I wind up resting my forearm on top of the heat exchanger to get my hand into the area. Some can be reached from forward of the rocker box, and one or two can actually be gotten to from the side, around the suspension console and such.
I use a deep-offset box end wrench for the jam nuts, to make sure I've got room. I use a stubby screwdriver for some of the adjusting lugs, and for others an offset ratcheting screwdriver that I found at Sears.
Not the easiest maintenance task I've ever done on a car, but definitely doable.
--DD
It may be easiest to do if the engine is out already.
Some people like to remove the exhaust.
Some use the "Cap'n Krusty" method, where you adjust a valve if the corresponding valve on the other side of the engine is open.
Some use the TDC method, where each cylinder gets set to TDC in turn (you can use the flywheel mark and the fan mark to tell, generally) and both valves get set.
Access can be tricky; I find I have to approach the valves from several different angles to get all of them. Several can be reached from aft of the rocker box, usually I wind up resting my forearm on top of the heat exchanger to get my hand into the area. Some can be reached from forward of the rocker box, and one or two can actually be gotten to from the side, around the suspension console and such.
I use a deep-offset box end wrench for the jam nuts, to make sure I've got room. I use a stubby screwdriver for some of the adjusting lugs, and for others an offset ratcheting screwdriver that I found at Sears.
Not the easiest maintenance task I've ever done on a car, but definitely doable.
--DD
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