Goooood Morning,
So...my outer CV's seem to be shot. They are 914 and original 40 year olds. I popped another one last night. Tow truck ride! Yaaaay! Dang those things make a terrible noise when they come undone don't they? This is the 2nd one to pull this on me (other side last time). The last time the inner race worked its way loose. Guessing the same thing happened again. My axles are Subaru on one side, 914 on the other (sway-a-way).
Options:
- Get new Type 1 CV's. Looks like Tangerine and PMB carry them. One has the lip machined. Supposed to be very strong. My axles have very little angle to them. The Type 1's are being used on pretty powerful cars, so they SHOULD hold up. Mine's just ~230 hp (maybe) compared to some race cars that are far higher.
- Go with 951's, which are a stronger. Spent a lot of time figuring out what's needed and I THINK I have it.
Based on Aarons diagram (a tribute to Miles ) this is the standard setup:
Click to view attachment
I'd be going half way with this. Don't need anything to the right of the axle.
Questions:
1. I have re-drilled 914-4 rear hubs. Is the 951 stub (951 331 231 01) splined the same so it fits? Aaron's diagram notes a pre-'74 911 stub which I believe is the same spline count based on 20 searches . Other threads also mention you can use 914-6 stubs which should have the same spline count as the 4's right ? Pretty sure I'm right but would hate to be wrong.
2. Does anyone make the spacer that is needed or found one that works that's pre-made? I see there is an option to machine off a portion of the hub so it matches. Is that a better idea?
If I can use the existing re-drilled 914-4 hub I would need the following parts:
- 951 stub axle part # 951 331 235 01
- 33 spline 944 CV part # 944 331 901 00
- spacer (or machine the excess off of the hub)
Cost difference is about $200 total.
What do the experts think?