Let me start with, I am by no means a mechanic but I figure I need to learn how to do certain things with this car. That includes changing the clutch cable. I just got the car back from the body shop where all the rust was replaced with new metal and the car painted:

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One thing I noticed was how difficult it was to put it in 1st and reverse. Time to replace the clutch cable. I've ordered what I believe are the normal parts to do the work. Cable, clevis, clevis pin and fork. While I'm waiting for the parts I wanted to go ahead and pull old cable out. Here is what I found:

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Notice where the clutch cable was hitting the accelerator cable attachment.

This is what was holding the clutch cable in (No clevis pin):
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So now for my problem. I have no idea how the clutch attaches to the pedal assembly. Does anybody have any pics of the proper way to attach it?

Thanks in advance.

That's not the correct clutch cable clevis. That's a cheesy PO repair.

Here's the parts you need:

Clevis 900.166.002.02

Clevis pin 999.166.001.02


Maybe you just need to adjust the cable tension ... it does need to be adjusted periodically.

If you don't already have a repair manual, let me suggest you get one. I'm sure you can find the process outlined on the Pelican forum - tech articles too.

The adjustment is accomplished under the car, at the release bearing (also called throw-out or TO) lever that's sticking out of the transaxle's bell-housing.

The cable has two nuts after it passes through the trunnion block that pulls on the TO bearing lever. You need two 11mm wrenches and Vice-Grips to do the job.

Jack the car, clamp the Vice-Grips on the flat part of the threaded cable end to keep it from turning when loosening and tightening the adjusting nuts. Loosen the first (jam) nut, then tighten the second nut a few turns. Test the adjustment from the driver's seat and readjust as needed. Make sure you leave enough free play in the pedal though. When you feel comfortable with the adjustment, tighten the jam nut, remove the Vice-Grips, and you're done.

When the cable needs continual adjustment on a frequent basis, it's probably time to replace the cable, as it starts to stretch more as it gets older (not in clock time, but in usage time).


If you notice the clutch starts slipping, that's when it's time to change the disc. It may turn out to be more than just the disc though ... you may need to have the flywheel machined, which adds more parts and labor to the job correctly.

New clutch disc (possibly a new pressure plate too) A six-spring disc is superior
Possibly a new TO bearing (with new clips)
Flywheel machining (if there's enough meat left on it)
New Flywheel o-ring
New Pilot bearing
New lock plate
New flywheel bolts

This would be a good time to check and change the rear main seal (flywheel end crankshaft seal)
New input shaft seal on the transaxle
New flywheel bolts

Yeah I thought maybe it just needed an adjustment but it pretty much has no more threads left. This cable looks old and ratty anyways. Mine appears to only have a nut/washer after the TO lever. So thats not set up correctly. I have a good grasp how the cable attaches at the transmission end but a little lost at the pedal end since my car didnt have all the parts to begin with. I do have a haynes book and the instructions are clear but no pictures of how it is all put together. I just need to see what it is suppose to look like. Thanks for responding. I do appreciate your help.

Is there a spacer tube on cable between the trunnion block and the adjusting nuts?

Most of us have a spacer, about an inch long (some even longer). Should be like this:

Cable _ Trunnion block _ Spacer _ Flat Washer _ Nut _ Jam Nut

Nope. Its Cable_Trunnion block_Flat washer_Nut

The bolt has been put in there to repair it or take wear in the pedal end.
My cable was changed recently and I didn't have a spacer? all is in order.

If you're at the end of the threads, try installing a 1" spacer and double nut the end, unless you have a Nylock nut on there.

Not sure why only some of us need the spacer, but it's actually quite common.

I use a 1" spacer too. I carry two 11mm wrenches, one is thin; makes unjamming those nuts a piece of cake...

The hardest part is getting the clutch cable off the pedal arm and putting the new one in with the clip. Small fingers and body contortions will help.

```

don't forget about the fun of removing the pedal board
just did this recently will try and get a pic of the pedal end tonite
my clevis broke at the same spot
cjl

look at pages 70 and 71 section 5 and note the fig. 4.9 picture in your haynes. if the pulley wheel wobbles like a top obtain a new wheel from 914rubber.

There is also a bushing in the pedal arm that is usually worn out, often worn thru and into the eye of the pedal arm.
The threads on the bolt they used will have cut into this bushing.
OE bushing was plastic, most aftermarket are bronze or brass.
The bushing is tough to replace with the pedal cluster in place.

Jim

here's a pic of my pedal end
Click to view attachment
I left the jam nut on that end (both ends actually) in as close to the same spot as possible but when I started messing with clutch cable I decided my underside needed a good cleaning so I haven't driven it since the clutch pedal clevis R&R to see if it needs any further adjusting
Click to view attachment
it's very tight in there and a third hand would be awesome definitely unhook from the throw out arm to get you some slack
I think I had the pin partially thru one side of the clevis then it was a kind of trial and error wiggle and push to get it in the hole (reminds me of a few nights in high school )
good luck
cjl

Tip, remove the rubber pedal pads, makes removal of the floorboard much easier.


Kent (76-914) recently made a small press tool that works pretty good. It's similar to a wrist pin removal tool, just on a smaller scale.

Maybe Kent can post a pic of his little tool (that didn't sound right, did it?)

Thanks for the pics and the advice. I should get the parts by Friday. Hoping to be driving by Saturday.

I'll let ya'll know how it turns out.

Got all the parts in and found the time to replace the clutch cable. It took some trial and error getting the clevis pin in and adjusting the cable but I finally got it done. The car shifts great now. No more grinding in first and reverse! Thanks to everyone who offered advice.