I want a remote start button in the engine bay. Do I just attach the 2 wires from the button to the the big pole and ignition tab on the starter directly?

I wired mine from the kill switch outlet to the starter terminal. That way the kill switch has to be on but the key does not. The engine will crank but not start unless the key is on. I used the same gauge wire that normally feeds power to the starter. Good luck

What you suggested will work. Big pole (12v) to solenoid tab (large yellow wire).

Is there a liabiltiy to doing this?

One thing I thought of is that the switch could short out if it gets very wet and actuate the starter, no?

Make sure the connections are clean and protected (maybe soldered, sealed with heatshrink or the like). Moisture won't be able to actuate the starter, but I definitely wouldn't mount it in a place that's going to get real wet.

Have your wife start the car, that's what the mafiosa do.

i was going to say mount it in the rear trunk but that would suck......i'd mount it on the firewall maybe?

Just use clips, and remove it when you are not working?


M

QUOTE (redshift @ Mar 2 2005, 05:29 PM)

Just use clips, and remove it when you are not working? M

i think it would be cool to have it permanately mounted.....

And subject to the elves of hell when you least expect it.

I am of the 'less problem' tribe.


M

From the solenoid to the big + pole works perfectly fine.

I'd just eliminate the button/switch and leave the wire there. Wrap it up somewhere. putting it through a switch adds one more thing to fault-check when you could just tap the wire to the battery...

QUOTE (Brando @ Mar 2 2005, 07:19 PM)

From the solenoid to the big + pole works perfectly fine. I'd just eliminate the button/switch and leave the wire there. Wrap it up somewhere. putting it through a switch adds one more thing to fault-check when you could just tap the wire to the battery...

I have a wire running from the solenoid into the engine compartment near the battery + terminal. I soldered the end of the wire so it wasn't freyed and tie wrapped it to the + batttery cable so it doesn't flop around. When I need to turn the engine over I just touch the soldered end to the + terminal. You have to be agressive and firmly connect the wire end to the terminal otherwise you get arching and fuse the wire to the battery terminal. It is really no big deal to hook up and can be real handy if you are dealing with a hot start problem and have not correctly fixed it.

-Jeff

Arcing around a battery can be a problem in some cases, hydrogen off-gassing, potential for a "flash fire".

John

QUOTE (Flat VW @ Mar 2 2005, 07:46 PM)

Arcing around a battery can be a problem in some cases, hydrogen off-gassing, potential for a "flash fire". John

Makes it exciting! Another reason to be agressive and firmly touch the wire to the terminal. Very little arching occurs. I figure no more arching than what occurs inside a momentary switch.

Here is a Marine switch that will work
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/store...=124&storeNum=9

you can take a spade terminal from the connector at the rear left side of the relay board, one of the 2 rear terminals. then to the battery with switch, no need to climb under the car.

I found a nice horn button about an inch in diameter. Mounted it under the trunk hinge in the engine bay. Outta the way but easy access. Took the wires thru the firewall right to the starter. I also found that the car turns over faster when I use the button! rather than the key!!!

.......b

I have a 12v momentary switch attached to about 4 ft of 2 conductor wire with a large ring terminal and a spade lug on the ends. When I need to crank the engine I can reach under the car and attach the wires to the starter (kill switch off) without jacking the car up.
I prefer not to have the assembly permanently attached to the car.
The kill switch has to be on for cranking and if I want spark the ignition also has to be on. Works great for compression testing!