I am assembling my 1971 914-6 and can not figure out how to tighten the line in the center of the photo. It appears to be a pipe thread on either end...the right (tank side) is loose. can it be tightened by hand? special tool? The collar has no flats but rotates on the line itself.
Thanks!
George






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There are "nuts" at all connection points. They are a variety of 28, 32 and 36 mm. Harbor freight sells a wrench set that they call "service wrenchs" for about $45.00 that includes all of the necessary sizes.

I am not sure that you can tighten the one on the tank without removing the tank. Maybe you can, but it is very tight in there.

Hmm....... just looked more closely at your picture, I am not sure that that one fitting on the tank to cooler line 90 tightens. The "nut" may be part of a factory made up connection. Can't remember as actually the line disconnects at the fitting going through the frame "J" bracket.

Can someone else out there with one in hand confirm??

That's not good.. The fitting at the tank side is coming off the hose/fitting side.
You will need to remove the hose from the tank ( it's a pita to remove ) and fix the fitting issue. It could've come loose or it's stripped and pulling apart.
You will need to take it apart inspect it and re assemble it if the fittings are ok. If not you will need to replace the hose. Yes, you will need a special tool to remove the tank fitting with the tank installed. Most people modify a crows foot to do this job.

the tank connection tightening is documented here

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=252625&hl=

Just to clarify, I am reassembling the car after the PO disassembled it. The line with round collars is currently loose on the right side of the photo and tight on the left side. I suspect the collars are tightened by hand, but I do not know for sure.
Thx,
George

Yes, the inner portion of the fitting screws into the collar but the hose will more then likely need to be removed from the tank to do this. It's made of aluminum so be careful not to strip the threads.

My first view I thought they were reusable fitting,but without the hexs they can't be,if they turn in place I would say the hose is toast as mentioned.
It will leak no question,I sourced my hoses and parts from Stoddard,they have a good selection of Cohline fittings and crimps @ the best prices.
The hose you will need should be sourced from the shop that can press the crimps on for you,another option is to buy from Porsche but I seem to remember some of them are NLA now.

The aluminum collars do not turn. The lines do not separate there. They only separate at the obvious threaded fittings at the tank and at the connection of the "cooler to tank" hose and the "tank to cooler" hose. These are named and numbered in the PET and on various websites. They are also diagramed on the Patrick Motorsport website. The lines are available from PMS. They are good quality, readily available and not expensive

If you tried to tighten the nut against the aluminum collar and it is now turning, it may leak there

Any new oil hose that you buy will be of a newer design with crimped hoses on steel ends.
They work just fine.
If you go that route I'd be interested in your old aluminum fittings.
For the sake of full disclosure, the aluminum originals are re-buildable but the process is a bit difficult and it is easy to damage the parts.
Attached are photos of the tool I devised to tighten the tank hose with the tank in the car.
I whittled down a 36mm rear axle tool sold for Beetles.
Then I drilled a 1/2" square hole in it for a long extension.
Still a bit fideley but it works.
As Luke said, the pictured fitting appears to be coming undone.
This is not a good thing.

The fitting at the tank is tight. I did that before installing the tank in the car. The line with two collars is only loose because I have not figured out how to tighten it. That is what I am trying to figure out.
Sorry for any confusion,

George

Out of interest I went thru my collection of oil line parts,the hose you have is made from reuseable fittings,I have one with no hex on it,so you can just replace the hose if they are loose,if thats any help?

Thanks for the link,now I know what tool to make,cheers.