Hi all...I have a 2 part question that hopefully someone can help me with.

1. It seems I can't tighten the front wheel bearings quite enough to get to the "tightness" that I want. The adjuster doesn't want to turn in any more and I don't want to force it. Is this an indication of not enough grease in the bearings?

2. I have the front wheels off the car. When I spin the hub and rotor back and forth I get a slight knock when the rotor starts and stops. I can really feel it in the strut also.
Is this normal? Am I explaining this properly? It is not wheel bearing slop.

Thanks,
Mike

1- The "book" spec is: Tight enough that you can just move the washer behind it with a screwdriver. (Yes, that's actually what it says.) I'm pretty sure you should not be able to run out of threads, unless you're missing the washer or maybe have the wrong one in there?

2- I can't tell exactly what you mean. Do you mean when you spin the hub as in the wheel is rolling down the road? Or do you mean rotating it around the strut, as in the steering wheel is being turned?

--DD

Hi Dave...

1.It does seem like I've run out of adjustment. The washers are there and the screwdriver method is what I'm using.

2. Like it's going down the road.If I hold the hub/rotor in 2 hands and rock it (turn it)
back and forth.
Mike

Any ideas???
Mike

Is it possible you have wrong wheel bearings? Just asking.

It is possible I suppose. I would have to install new bearings to find out!!
Thanks.

I don't know, but what you are describing isn't right. The proper parts should go together fine and be adjustable.

Maybe its camera time? (post pictures)

Not nessarily. Just compare your bearings to a new one. You can do this at a store without buying. Not first time FLAPS gave you the wrong part.

RobW...good idea. Is it possible to post video?
Mike

1. Did you just redo your bearings?

Nope. Not sure when they were done.

What made you remove the grease cap to check if the hub was lose?

Was there anything in the cap? Water? Dirt? Metal??

Add a washer and see if it will get tight.

Can you tighten the nut enough that you cannot move the washer with a screwdriver?

If the answer is YES then you have enough threads.

Nothing in the cap. I just wanted to make sure the adjustment was correct.
Mike

Are you missing the washer?

Any ideas on the clunk when turning the rotor back and forth?
I can really feel it in the strut with my hand.
Mike

Are you sure it's in the hub/spindle joint? I know that some cars have had loose ball joints or loose strut tops and produced that clunking feeling, even when the wheel bearings were in spec.

--DD

No. I'm not really sure where it's coming from. Strut top is all tight, and ball joints don't seem to have any play but you never know!!
Mike

Strut nut inside the cover?

Not sure on spindle nut.

That's what I meant, actually. Not the strut top, the upper nut on the housing, under the cover.

--DD

Guys...I figured out my "clunk" issue. I removed the brake pads and the noise is gone.
They must move a little as the rotor starts and stops.
Thanks,
Mike

Is it( the clunk) on both sides of the car ?
A galled spindle ? meaning a reduced diameter to support the races an the spindle.

Yes this is a noise that drives some people crazy.
If you drive your car forward and repeatedly press the brake, the pads dont move and dont make a noise they are hard against one side of the 'pad cavity'
If you reverse and apply the brake, the first time the brakes will make a noise as the pads move to the opposite end of their "cavity".
backup & stop again - no noise.
Now chage dir & move forward & apply, they will make the noise again on the first press..

Thanks....still learning!!!