I just installed my rebuilt motor and am having trouble setting the timing to the specified 27 BTDC at 3500 RPM.

When I initially set the timing to 27 BTDC (with the 5mm retard vacuum line off) the engine runs very rough at idle when I plug in the retard line to the canister. I also get "run-on" when shutting off the motor at this setting.

So I set-up the timing for smooth idle (by ear) with the retard line hooked up, then measured the advance at 3500 RPM and it comes out to approximately 32 BTDC.

At temperature everything seems steady at about 1100 rpm and 13~13.5 AFR at the 32 BTDC setting.

In no case am I getting backfiring.

The set-up is:

- Stock 2.0 D-Jet except for Raby 9590 Cam and valve train.
- For set-up decel valve, air cleaner, and AAR valve are not hooked up. Holes are plugged.
- Test ran engine prior to installation and checked valve lash prior to installing motor.
- Petronix Ignitor II installed
- Fuel pressure measure at 28 psi.
- Head temperature has never gotten higher than 320F, usually lower when I'm doing my adjustments. I wait for at least 210F to adjust.

Any advice would be appreciated. I have not driven the car yet.

What year is the engine? The retard line shoul only be active (drawing a vacuum) at idle. So it should not have an impact on the timing at speed. Check to be sure the line is not drawing a vacuum above idle and that you are using the correct timing mark.

I would say recheck the timing marks- I just use the 0 mark and a timing light that can be adjusted to the specific time you want to set it at. ; seem sif you backed it down from the 32 to 27 the idle should be right at the 850-900 you would be looking for. not sure why it would not be running smooth at that setting unless that mark is off- maybe its the difference in that cam grind but I am grasping at straws , id don't have experience with that setup , i'm sure others will chime in.

The car/engine is a '74. The retard vacuum is not active at 3500 rpm. Timing is the same at 3500 rpm with or without the retard line.

I made 2 marks on the fan, 0 and 27 deg. I've been wanting to verify the marks with the flywheel, but haven't been able to check cause I can't turn over the motor manually (don't have shifter hooked up yet). Probably my next step.

Is a mirror how most set the timing using the factory fan stamps? Seems like you would need a lot of hands to do that.

Was wondering if anybody has had compatibility issues with the Blue coil and stock equivalent Beru plug wires (from Pelican) and Pertronix Ignitor II?

I replaced the rotor with a rev limiting rotor and now I can set the timing at 27 BTDC and maintain idle with the retard line connected.

I read somewhere the rev limiting rotor emits less EMI and was wondering if I was causing EMI issues with my plug wires and coil which would affect the Ignitor II performance.

Ignitor II requires .6 ohm coil and spiral wound plug wires to suppress EMI.