I can't f#&cking belive this. I get new plugs today, gap them and install. Nice and smooth until the last 3/4 turn. Feels weird so I back it out. Comes out with a ton of aluminum on it. Look in the hole and S%@T!!!!!!!!!!!!! Do I have to pull the head for this?

QUOTE (Headrage @ Mar 4 2005, 04:52 PM)

Do I have to pull the head for this?

do you really have to ask ???

Andy

Ifn you use a light oil or solvent the particles will rise to the surface and then u can shop vac the metal out--or get some chop sticks and chew some real nasty sticky gum and goop it on the end and then fish them out---



Seriously tho--sorry to hear that man- -It has been awhile since that happened to me--did u use any type of anti-sieze on the threads before you put them in???

The last time that happened to me--well--I am now a devout preacher of nickle antisieze----

Just how bad is it really??? Can u take a macro pic of if??

While it would be preferable to pull the head, heliarc up the hole, redrill and then rethread, you can:

Using heavy grease on the bit, slow speed drill out the hole to accept a timesert or what ever they are called. Use the same heavy grease as you run the tap in.

Use of heavy grease will capture most all of the shards made in cutting. Aluminum will also vaporize rather quicky in a combustion chamber.

The above is a race-track solution to not having another head or engine.

end

Can you say ....cross thread?

QUOTE (mikez @ Mar 4 2005, 05:07 PM)

Can you say ....cross thread?

Not after I had already had it almost seated. I'm pulling the head and doing it right. Might hold me up 3 days maybe 4. This sucks. And yes I had anti-sieze on it.

Yeah, it's a pain in the ass, but look at it this way.

1. It happened in the driveway, not on a trip.

2. The engine wasn't running, imagine a plug shooting out while the engines running. Had it happen on my bike, almost took my leg off. Got home by safety wiring a plug in the hole, had to keep the rpm's up to keep the plug from bouncing, lol.

3. You've got all the tools at hand to fix it right.

4. Drill them all, put stainless inserts in all of them, never have to worry about them again.

5. Put the inserts in with the green loctite, good for 2000 degrees, if they strip out, toss the heads.

What size engine, I've got a set of 1.7 or 1.8 heads you can have.

Good luck, Don

QUOTE (DonTraver @ Mar 4 2005, 05:45 PM)

Yeah, it's a pain in the ass, but look at it this way. 1. It happened in the driveway, not on a trip. 2. The engine wasn't running, imagine a plug shooting out while the engines running. Had it happen on my bike, almost took my leg off. Got home by safety wiring a plug in the hole, had to keep the rpm's up to keep the plug from bouncing, lol. 3. You've got all the tools at hand to fix it right. 4. Drill them all, put stainless inserts in all of them, never have to worry about them again. 5. Put the inserts in with the green loctite, good for 2000 degrees, if they strip out, toss the heads. What size engine, I've got a set of 1.7 or 1.8 heads you can have. Good luck, Don

Okay, you "Darn Car"!!! I pulled the head to send it out and have it done correctly. As far as these questions, my answers are as follows:

1. Yes
2. Thankfully
3. No.
4. Huh?
5. Huh?
6. 2.0

Thanks guys and gals, but I want it done right so I'll send it out and get it filled and drilled,

What brand spark plug did you use?

I changed my plugs 2 weeks ago and when I pulled one of them, the threaded portion was fatter than the others. Upon closer inspection, it appears that someone had already used a thread repair and it came out with the plug. So I only have 3 new plugs installed. I put the old plug back in the hole so I can at least still drive it until I figure out what I need to do to fix the problem. Any suggestions?

QUOTE (Ctrout @ Mar 4 2005, 10:49 PM)

I changed my plugs 2 weeks ago and when I pulled one of them, the threaded portion was fatter than the others. Upon closer inspection, it appears that someone had already used a thread repair and it came out with the plug. So I only have 3 new plugs installed. I put the old plug back in the hole so I can at least still drive it until I figure out what I need to do to fix the problem. Any suggestions?

Get a new insert if the threads are still good and use the tool to install it with loctite. Let it set up and put the plug in.

If the threads are bad....well, pull the head and have it done correctly (what a bummer)

I had the same feeling when I was changing the plugs on my newly aquired Land Rover. You know that feeling you get when tightening, but don't want to turn anymore to know for sure. I hate that almost stripped feeling.

I bought the first new plug set for a car once, took the first one out, and it was tiny. Someone had plugged/drilled for very small plugs.. so, I went with it..

I obsessively turn the plugs counter-clockwise at least 7-10 times, until I know right where the thread ticks in.. and then I use the tips of my fingers until hand tight, or I can't reach, because my back hurts.

<--- don't let the baby fool ya, I am on my last leg..


M

so finger tight until she seats all the way, a bit of anti-seize, and then how tight? I use the factory spec which is (I forget ft lbs.)

I don't know how many torqueses is 'snug', but not a bit more.

I think we are looking at inches, not feet. (tq)


M

QUOTE (redshift @ Mar 5 2005, 09:21 AM)

I don't know how many torqueses is 'snug', but not a bit more. I think we are looking at inches, not feet. (tq)

the spec book calls for 3,5 MKg

24 lbs-ft in round numbers.

Use Jakes trick...

Milk of magnesia instead of anti-seize........

Works great!!!!! Those suckas spin right out.

Thanks Jake!!

Ken

I once cross threaded a plug on a 84 subby I bought for $800. I tightened that sucker as much as I could and drove it from Utah to Alaska without an issue.


Sorry to hear about that Allen, I know how setbacks go. Once you get everything right it will be a great engine.

QUOTE (Type 4 @ Mar 4 2005, 08:24 PM)

What brand spark plug did you use?

NGK BP6ES.

Ricer plugs in a piece of fine German engineering.

Alan: on the NGKs.
Joe

When I was searching through the threads alot of people said they like the NGK's. I'll return them today. What's a good Bosch plug to use?

I was just kidding about the plugs. Although I have Bosch in mine.

The NGKs should have been fine. As I remember they are a copper electrode.

All I have heard warn against the Bosch Platnium and the popular plug of choice is the Bosch Copper.

That said I only run the Bosch Copper.

NGKs are good plugs. They will last you a long time and are cheep. I don't think that the electrons jump any faster on a $10.00. And I might add that they read well (if your into that).
Joe

I'm paranoid about cross threading a plug. I use a length of rubber hose that fits snug over the ceramic part of the plug.

That way, if I start to cross thread the plug when going in... it just spins on the plug. Not rocket science, but it works for me.

Oh... and there is a copper based anti-sieze just for spark plugs now.

-Rusty

The absolute best TQ to use is to run it to the crush washer--then gently turn the wrench until you feel the washer go tight and then lose TQ--this is how you know it has run onto the washer and it is crushing--then just when you feel the TQ go back up-about 1/8--1/5 turn more-turn it exactly 1/4 turn more and leave it--I have found thru 20 years of aluminum heads this is a very good sequence to use--and use nickle antisieze!!!! the steel will corrode into the alum. and more times than not when taking them out--they takes the threads with them---do not use copper antisieze---this will cause more problems than you would want--copper is good on steel only--nickle for everything else

I have never ever used a TQ wrench for these--after I pulled the threads four times---

Is the welding, drilling and tapping something that any automotive machine shop can do or does it have to be a shop that specializes in air cooled motors? I would like to get it done here in town if I can or else I'll have to take it all the way down to Rimco.

Any machine shop worth their mettle will be able to do it---all those lathes and turntables are adaptable to anything needing machining--i.e.--any one that does allot of work--you should make out just fine

P.S.--as long as the machine tool operater or owner of the shop has a Pall Mall cigarette hanging from the lip is a good one to trust--that means they have been doing it waaaaaay tooo loooong---

Got my head back!! I took it to a machine shop here in town and he said that the threads were not that bad. Chased them out and voila, plug goes in nice and smooth and torques down nice and tight. 10 bucks. I'm happy.

Great news guy!!! Happy for ya!!


On another note: What is so bad about the platinums??? I have been running bosche +4 in my car and no problems--in fact it runs better-but I also run a crane module and a MSD blaster 2 coil--very hot sparkies-what have ya'll been "hearing"?? Any hard evidence to the contrary???

QUOTE (jwalters @ Mar 7 2005, 02:09 PM)

On another note: What is so bad about the platinums??? I have been running bosche +4 in my car and no problems--in fact it runs better-but I also run a crane module and a MSD blaster 2 coil--very hot sparkies-what have ya'll been "hearing"?? Any hard evidence to the contrary???

I think the argument against platnums is not that they are bad, but that they don't do anything extra for our hot ,air cooled cars. So all your really doing is spending more money to get the same performance.

Your car may run better from the hot spark and not the expensive plug.

-Mike D.