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dcecc1968
So I took off my clutch cable at the transmission to allow me to remove my pedal set more easily thinking, I'll remember what order the sleeve bushings, nuts, clutch cable clevis go and the location of the clutch fork. Well that was 3 weeks ago and I forgot to take photos. Then I go on Pelican and I see that there is supposed to be a "tab washer" in there somewhere that I don't even have.

Does someone have a photo they can show me of the proper order?

Now I'm trying to reinstall and I'm all messed up. I can't figure out the proper order and I can't figure out what position the fork should be in (towards the front or towards the rear) when the clutch pedal is in the upright position. Any Help is appreciated.

Then a round tab broke off the plastic cable clevis (good I found out now, right). The replacement clevis appears to be metal and now has triangular tabs is that correct?

Below are some photos of what I think the right order is but I'm not sure.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment
stugray
Move both nuts and washer to the right in that picture then it goes on in that orientation to the pic below.

The tabbed washer goes on over the cable and back to the pulley bracket, then is bent over and the tab goes in a notch to keep the cable fro coming out of the bracket.

And I was going to suggest you buy the metal version of that clevis when I saw the pic, but you found it.
dcecc1968
Stu,
Thanks for the response. So the correct order from the pulley to the end of the cable is:

tab washer, clutch clevis, two sleeve bushings, washer, then two nuts.

I thought that was what I needed to do, but when I connected it like that and pulled the cable as far as I could (clutch pedal in upright position), I didn't know what position the clutch fork should be in (towards the front or towards the rear)?

Also, it seemed there was no tension to keep the clutch pedal in the normally upright position since the spring on the clutch pedal kept tension in the normally depressed position.
HalfMoon
Not sure if this helps (I had to add some nuts to take up slack from a stretched cable)
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Dave_Darling
The "tabbed washer" is at the bottom of HalfMoon's photo, where the cable enters the shield around the pulley. The extra nuts on the end of the cable in his photo are equivalent to the spacers you have in yours.

So, it goes: Cable inside its sheath, tabbed washer around end of sheath, pulley, clevis, spacer(s), two M7 nuts.

--DD
Vysoc
My cable got stretched out a Okteenerfest and I need to replace thanks for the reminder on proper orientation!!

Vysoc flag.gif
bdstone914
Looks like you have a broken plastic trunion. I can send you a metal one like the one one in other pics that were posted.
Bruce
rgalla9146
Don't lose those nuts ! they're the only ones on the whole car.
r_towle
QUOTE(rgalla9146 @ Oct 4 2015, 09:46 PM) *

Don't lose those nuts ! they're the only ones on the whole car.

Rocker nuts, btdt
dcecc1968
Thanks for the help guys. I've already ordered the metal clevis, tab washer, and rubber boot.

One last adjustment question.

What position does the transmission fork (whatever you call the metal piece that the clevis fits into) need to be when the cable is fully taut and the clutch pedal is in its upright position?
a) fully forward (toward the front of the car)
b) fully toward the rear of the car
c) somewhere inbetween (by trial and error?)

-Don
rgalla9146
QUOTE(r_towle @ Oct 4 2015, 09:52 PM) *

QUOTE(rgalla9146 @ Oct 4 2015, 09:46 PM) *

Don't lose those nuts ! they're the only ones on the whole car.

Rocker nuts, btdt



Dooooh !
Dave_Darling
QUOTE(dcecc1968 @ Oct 5 2015, 05:19 AM) *

c) somewhere inbetween (by trial and error?)


This one.

And better yet, you can shim the ball stud that the throwout arm rides on to move the arm forward and aft. Of course, you have to pull the trans off the engine to do that...

--DD
rhodyguy
and then, while you're in there….
dcecc1968
QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Oct 5 2015, 02:29 PM) *

and then, while you're in there….


Stop it..... you're killing me. I'm trying to get mine off jack stands
dcecc1968
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Oct 5 2015, 10:59 AM) *

QUOTE(dcecc1968 @ Oct 5 2015, 05:19 AM) *

c) somewhere inbetween (by trial and error?)


This one.

And better yet, you can shim the ball stud that the throwout arm rides on to move the arm forward and aft. Of course, you have to pull the trans off the engine to do that...

--DD


Thanks Dave,
I'm still unclear what keeps the throwout arm (and clevis) from sliding toward the rear of the car (sure seems like there should be a nut before the clevis) but I guess I'll find out when I try to crank it up.
Dave_Darling
The cable pulls the outer end of the arm back; the pressure plate pushes the inner end back (and so the outer end forward). That's it.

The spring on the clutch pedal puts the cable under a little bit of tension when everything is hooked up properly, that's its function.

--DD
dcecc1968
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Oct 5 2015, 06:39 PM) *

The cable pulls the outer end of the arm back; the pressure plate pushes the inner end back (and so the outer end forward). That's it.

The spring on the clutch pedal puts the cable under a little bit of tension when everything is hooked up properly, that's its function.

--DD


Dave,
Thanks a million, the pressure plate pushing back is the nugget of knowledge I was missing. Thanks for your patience with a 914 novice!

-Don
TX914
Anyone else feel compelled to wire up the clevis so if the cable breaks it won't be lost on the road? Last time mine broke it was at the pulley and I was lucky to find the end with the clevis and nuts lying in the street... if lost without a spare setup you'd be stuck. Maybe I'm just paranoid. smile.gif
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