I've been cutting and grinding away all the rusty metal in preparation to install the new panels. Floor pan to engine fire wall are done. I have a small section of inner fender to remove from the rear trunk then I'll be done. I'm debating on if I should blast some sections of the chassis now while things are all apart. I'd have to wait for the weather to cooperate if I do that. Meantime, there's a lot of other small jobs that need to be tackled.

Hi Luke @Luke M - Sorry it took me a minute to get some pictures of my sail panel; we did not replace the foam. Blasted, epoxy primed, undercoated, painted. Man, my car is a little dirty from driving.

Your work is amazing; I am reliving my restoration while looking at your pictures.

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Hi Michael,

Thank you, I appreciate you getting back to me on this. Looks like there's no seal at all along that seam. I don't plan on driving my 6 in any bad weather or go off road so I should be good without a seal too.

@Luke M
First off, your work is amazing!

All the discussion about road grime getting up in the fenders made me remember what @bkrantz did in his epic build thread. Check out what he did with fender liners starting at this point in his thread. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...93&st=3380#

more info on fender liners here too: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...mp;hl=raynekat#

-Aaron

Finally got all of the spot welds drilled out, and surfaces ground flat. What a pain the rear section of the inner fender was. Just look at the mount of spot welds.
Then did a quick test fit of the new inner fender. I forgot to trim the targa side so it's off a little otherwise fits well. I'll see if I can get the long test fitted on Friday.

Great progress!

It is so nice to see all of the details of the structure. This rebuild is not only amazing, but a great documentation ressource on how the body comes together.

Following with great interest!

Isn't it crazy the lengths we go to on these machines ( I am a victim too)

Great progress, driving this once completed will be a major milestone

I used urethane seam sealer. Leaving it open would not be good. The dirt will get up there and sit on the the lip. The tin worm will take up residence in the damp dirty space.

When I clean the underside of my car, I put it up on the lift, pull the wheels and use compressed air and a long handled soft brush to get in to tight spots and get rid of dust and debris. Then I go at it with detail spray and a microfiber towel. Seems to do a pretty good job.

Though I do not drive my car in the rain, I have been caught in light rain a few times. Also, I do not "wash" my car old school; I always use detail spray and microfiber towels. Been 8+ years since it was painted and it still looks good thanks to Kent Simmons extensive and detailed craftsmanship and expertise.

Another productive day. I got the left long and inner fender in. At this point it's just test fitting things and making any adjustments that's needed before final welding. I'll get these new panels painted in epoxy/chassis paint before installing them. I'll have to wait on a few new metal pieces. I believe that I should have them in hand within two weeks.
Meantime I have a few other small jobs to get done.

Hi Rick,

I'm thinking that I'll do just what you state here. I'll seal it up once it's ready for paint. I need to put it on my list to get done so I don't forget. Another question is what would you recommend applying to the seams that will get spot welded together? I was planning on a weld through primer along both edges. I also plan to stitch weld the rear trunk panels and inside the engine bay. I believe the GT cars got this done as well?

Another thing I do, once the welding has been completed is drill a small hole in the quarter panel on the back edge of the sail panel that ends up hidden behind the sails trim. I like to spray Eastwood encapulator or anything similar. This will help seal the back side of any welding that caused some burning off of any weld through primer if you use it, of if you don't, it is extra insurance against rusting of burnt metal that will rust just from humility.

Sealing this void is important, but AFAIK it's about 3/4" - 1" wide. A bit much for seam sealer maybe

I prefer Dow Corning silicone for this application with foam backer rod.

You may have been missing the spot welded flange. Besides silicone is not historically a paint friendly product. Silicone was not allowed in my shop. All it would take is someone to be cleaning something in the area where silicone was present and.toch the car.somplace else. There goes a 15k paint job.

We have been using Dow Corning 756 for many years, the only paintable silicone sealant I know of. In this application it would be applied after paint

If it's really a seam to seal (not a BIG gap), why not Wurth Brushable Seam Sealer. Best I can tell, this is the closest modern day thing for what was found on various parts of the car (e.g. floorboard, frunk, trunk). It's paintable. I think most of the Porsche parts vendors carry it if you don't have a Wurth account.

I plan on using seam sealer in the areas that need it. What I was referring to is the joint that gets welded together. So between the firewall and rear inner fender sections or any other sections that get spot welded together. See pic with the circled area is what I'm talking about. I believe the factory just left it in primer and spot welded the panels together. I'd like to prevent rust forming in these welded sections. I'm thinking weld through primer but wanted some opinions on what others have used.

I am far from an expert, so take it for what it's worth.

The rustoration shops I am following use weld-through primer on the mating surfaces before welding, then epoxy prime over it after welding. This is not in service of originality but protection.

The targa reinforcement showed up today. Made it here safe all the way from Germany.
I've been busy prepping metal and dealing with a sand blaster that I now am going to modify to work properly..

Gotta love these NOS parts

Wow Luke you are committed ... I have my no rust six I wrecked 30 yrs ago on a rack ,,almost straight..
But in trying to keep up.. I found my Troutman thermostat...
its the small things sometimes,,
Great Effort...and Nice parts..
Is that the left rear fender I sold ??

Yes, that's the nos l/r q-panel that I got from you. All of the new panels will get stripped and epoxy painted before installing them. I'm heading out to the shop to fix the sand blaster. Hopefully this update will fix the issue and I can get to blasting the chassis.

I tried to blast the chassis on my own but it didn't work out too well. I made more of a mess and had all kinds of issues with the blaster. I think I also smoked my air compressor motor too. I just didn't give it enough time to cool between rounds of filling.

I'm pretty sure I got most of the media out of the hidden areas. I used air and a vacuum for a good two hours. The nice part is there's only one long to deal with and I had sealed that up pretty well before I started.

I should've just paid to have this part done but I wanted to give it a try. I had good luck blasting the new panels but blasting a painted/undercoated chassis was way more work involved. It went fine in the areas where I had ground down but once I hit the old paint and under coating it just stalled. I went through several bags of media to get very little results. So now I'm going to make a few calls to either have a company come out to blast it or take it to the guy I spoke to over the winter. He's on a first come first serve so I'll have to see where I fall in that line.

If all fails I may rent a compressor and blasting pot from a local rental shop and try again. Lesson learned here is don't waste your money on a HF blasting pot and trying to modify it to work better. It was a costly failure on my part. I have a 60 gl air compressor but pretty sure I needed more cfm then what it puts out.

Just got caught up on the thread Luke. Nice work. Full speed ahead!

I've been chipping away at small tasks here. For those who run a front oil cooler and removed the tow ring for venting what was your fix to this? I came up with a bolt on tow ring almost like what Arno did on his GT project. I figured I'd ask before I commit to welding this in.

@Luke - Hi Luke - We just removed the tow hook all together when we did the louvered trunk floor panel. I added Tangerine Racing's tow "loops" to the front control arms which I feel is a much better solution.

In reality, my car would not be towed like that. But, if we need to trailer it, they make a great tie down along with his rear tie downs.

Cheers,
Michael

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Working on the replacement drivers door ( Thanks Perry ).
The door had a small dent at the lower end. I broke out the spot welder and my body hammers. About 30 mins later and all is well. I may work the corner a little more but want to install the door first.

I've been playing phone tag with the blasting guy and the darn weather here isn't co-operating. When the blasting guy is free it calls for rain. I've been doing some other tasks while I wait. I got the new long prepped for the front oil lines and mocking up the rest of the oil cooler setup in the engine bay. I plan to run a return filter before the oil goes to the t-stat then through the rest of the oil system. I think I figured out a good location for the filter/housing. I installed a spare engine case to make sure things clear and things can be accessed. I'll have to modify a few oil lines to make things work. I'm using a 95 993 return oil line which I'll modify to mate with the return filter housing then make up some lines to mate with the oil t-stat. I've decided to use the new Elephant Racing ERX T-stat and all new metric fittings. This should all work pretty well with the 3.4.

Got a few things done today. Made the hard line from the tank to the engine oil cooler.
Test fitted things and all seams like it will fit well. I figured out the mounting spot for the oil filter housing and the t-stat. I have to make some lines up between the two but first I need to hard mount the housings. I should be able to wrap most of this up by the weekend.

Hey Cairo,
You have enough airflow with the louvered frunk pan?
I'm wondering about the adequacy now that I have mine in and working...I don't have oil radiator fans as the radiator is only about 4" tall...hard to size fans for my set up.
Thanks, Todd

I'm almost done with the fittings at the T-stat. I have one more line to make that goes from the oil filter housing to the t-stat. This one is going to be a real pain in the rear to make. I have to make the rubber hose from the engine return line to the oil filter housing. I modified a factory 95 993 return oil line to fit the 6 chassis. It worked out well as the other end was used from the oil tank return to the t-stat return side.

Wow…….Better than new!

Very nicely done!

So cool to test fit everything before paint goes on. Looking great!

Thanks guys. I wanted to test fit most of the new items that will be going into the chassis. This way I can add brackets and drill holes without damaging fresh paint. I'm finding that this was the way to go. I'm taking a lot of pictures as I go too. That way once the final assembly takes place I will not be wondering what goes where.

I have a question for the people that have used the wurth or bed liner for under the chassis. Does it seam to help with road noise and stone chips? I do not plan on adding any interior sound deadening material on the floor pan or firewall. If anything I was going to use something on the underside of the fenders to prevent stone chips/dents. I have a fairly long stone driveway that I'll be driving on. The last thing I want is a new dent within the first drive.

Beautiful.
Cleanest ever.

Luke,
I used Upol, they supply Wurth and are in the states. Its gives the car a clean under body look. I have had three different cars with different insulating styles. The Wurth/Upol product on the under body and trunks are worlds better. The 914-6 I used it on is the quietists and smoothest sailing car I have driven. 100% recommend.
Matt

Wow great job ..that thermostat..100% ...finally Improved..

We used Wurth on the underside of my car and then painted it body color completely. Still looks like new with about 12K miles on it. I do try to get under it every few months and clean it. I just use detail spray and a microfiber towel.

FYI:
I used Wurth on my restoration. I sealed the Wurth with a final (1) coat of clear satin finish to seal the Wurth finish.
I can still clean it after 20+years of garage queen use and looks good
Tom

Thank you all that responded on the Wurth product. I'll spray that after it gets the epoxy on the underside. I messed around with the oil system again today. I installed the return oil filter housing then I realized that I may have to lower it a little to clear the engine sheet metal. I'll have to dig the tins out and see where they land. I messed around with the last steel line and man it's a pain. I need it to go up 45 degrees coming out of the t-stat then take a sharp 90 degrees into the oil filter housing. I may fab up a line in copper then have a local hydraulic shop bend me up one from some leftover SS pipe that I have.

New Capet posts

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Repop & OG post brackets

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Thanks Rich. I'll keep an eye out for the posts. Rich, I need the part circled in red.
LMK via pm.

I made the return hose and test fitted it. The fittings that I used where made by a member over on Pelican and hose from Elephant Racing. I'm still working on the last hard line.

If you are handy with 3d printing or know someone who is you can print your own "header modeling" snap together parts and scale them for oil line such that you can easily fabricate your needed pipe. I would think you may need to fabricate/weld vs bending to get what you need:

https://www.stlfinder.com/3dmodels/header-fabrication

After a few days of messing around with the last hard line I figured it out. I tried to route a rubber line from the other outgoing port but there's no room for both 30 mm fittings on one side. A an-12 fitting fit ok but I want to keep the fittings in metric. A trip to HD and I have a mocked up line. Now to track down some 22 mm i/d stainless 90 degree fittings.

These fittings below might get you somewhere, but you could see if you can find metric versions - these jump from 3/4" - 1", but you really need to know the true ID/OD to see if they will work:

https://www.titanfittings.com/low-pressure-...eld-schedule-10

I should have looked harder at Mcmaster as they have 19mm and 23mm:

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/stainless...urement~metric/

Key words are stainless, tube or tubing, weld, fitting(s)

Belmetric and PartsKlassik sell metric conical hose nipples and swivel nuts.

Thanks for the info. I found some earlier this morning and on order. The ss tubing that I have on hand is 22mm or 7/8" so I need to stay within those sizes. Plus my hose nipples fit the 22 mm tubing.
Parts Klassik is where I got all of my metric 30 mm fittings from.

Beautiful oil network setup!

I like the remote filter for easy mess-free maintenance. How do you plan on dealing with the filter console at the tank? Can you simply install a second filter at the tank and replace it after many years, or is there a spin-on cap that could deal with a filterless tank?