What are the things that you look for when doing a PPI? Here are the things on my list:

Battery Tray
Hell Hole
Longs
Shelf by Firewall (under brain and relay box) for rust
Headlight buckets.
Trunks
pedal cluster

Anything that you can add to the list would be helpful. I am looking at a car this weekend and want to make sure I check all the important (expensive) stuff.

Thanks!

floor pans, hoses in engine bay ( tells how well car has been taken care of ), cowl rust ( pia to fix ) front trunk seal channel for rust ( also pia to fix ), wear on pedals ( gives a good idea of real mileage ), up under rear fenders for rust around door handles and sail panel

thats my addition

Look at the wear on the rotors. Tells how much/hard the car has been driven. Rusty rotors means it hasn't been driven in a while, possibly due to the fact that the brakes are out of adjustment....

Also check the door gaps. Should be even. Should'nt be able to put your fingers between them like you can on mine

I am looking for a teener too and made a 3 page check list in Excel. I can email it to you if you like.

I would still recomend a pro PPI after it passes yours.

My list has sorted many cars though, where I realized I did not need to invest the money for a good PPI.

I would add a compression and leak down test among others.

QUOTE (teenrookie @ Mar 8 2005, 11:28 PM)

I am looking for a teener too and made a 3 page check list in Excel. I can email it to you if you like. I would still recomend a pro PPI after it passes yours. My list has sorted many cars though, where I realized I did not need to invest the money for a good PPI.

Please do send me your spreadsheet. You can send it to Joeg AT myrealbox DOT com. Thanks!

QUOTE (skline @ Mar 9 2005, 12:02 AM)

I would add a compression and leak down test among others.

Scott,

I have a compression tester and can do that. I haven't done a leakdown test before, so I may be calling you.

I am not looking at a very expensive 914, so I am not certain that I will need to go through all of this. However, I sure don't want to get stuck with a car that is just a parts car.

QUOTE (skline @ Mar 9 2005, 03:02 AM)

I would add a compression and leak down test among others.

Yep. I second that one.

Oh... and check to make sure there isn't a pair of vice grips clamping the (rear) rubber brake line closed... only to be told - "The rear brakes might not work, but the front brakes work pretty good, so it's okay to drive."

Be afraid.

-Rusty

Leakdown requires another special tool. Really, measuring leakdown is a diagnostic tool to help you find problems. You don't need to do it unless the compression check shows a problem but then if there is low compression on one cylinder you are probably walking away from that car anyway.

QUOTE (teenrookie @ Mar 8 2005, 11:28 PM)

I am looking for a teener too and made a 3 page check list in Excel. I can email it to you if you like. I would still recomend a pro PPI after it passes yours. My list has sorted many cars though, where I realized I did not need to invest the money for a good PPI.

Got your email, but there was no attachments. Can you please resend?

I always like to check the rear suspension ears for cracking and the fuel lines. Check the trunk hinges for damage and ppor repair. Also take an explosion proof flashlight (Like Pelican) and look to the bottom of the fuel tank for rust. My 2 cents....DLee

Duct tape.

Also pay attention to the bottom corners of the windshield. Watter runs down into the cracks of the trim and can cause rust there that is a pain to fix. Well...all rust is a pain to fix.

Everything else I have thought of so far has been mentioned...

QUOTE (mikester @ Mar 9 2005, 10:01 PM)

Also pay attention to the bottom corners of the windshield. Watter runs down into the cracks of the trim and can cause rust there that is a pain to fix. Well...all rust is a pain to fix. Everything else I have thought of so far has been mentioned...

Lurker

sticks and stones...

PPI? Leak down test?

Did all that, bought my 914, less than a hundred miles later - dropped a valve guide. Full rebuild, a few "performance" upgrades while I'm at it, months of hogging our garage, making the wife park outside for a few months, spent more money and I paid for the car, almost get a divorce... the life of a 914 enthusiast.

Farkin' great isn't it - wouldn't do it any other way!

Check the numbers..the VIN stamped in the body should match on the tags in the front trunk, windshield and door jamb. The body # on the Karmann tag should match the rear trunk. I know of one '72 with the front clip from a '71, still has the tag to prove it. And before trading paper check that the VIN on the title/registration matches that on the car.