I have a question regarding lug bolts.

How much available thread engagement do you need after the bolt passes throught back of the wheel mounting surface?

I have a set on my western wheels that is a lot longer, the shank has about 1/2 or so of non threaded surface, flat face washers on them. The others that I have on my enkies could be stock for ?? steel wheels, alloys? it's a ball seat, fully threaded and protrudes out of the back of the wheel about 1/2 or so.

8 full turns is the best.....that's what the rule book I use asks for.

Cool, thanks!

Just went thru all this the last couple of days--ordered bolts for my wheels and they sent me a full set of 16, all front sized I do not know what it is that these suppliers cannot get it into them that the rear bolts HAVE to be longer. That disc hat uses up much needed threads--

Finally went to NAPA--the king of parts--I am convinced they have everything--and finally got the long bolts for the back end--in stock in a sh*t hole store!!!!

Bad thing is by the time I use my gas and time I would have spent more than what I paid for the wrong bolts--I am just going to have to eat it.

At least now I can finally get my car off stands...

Yea I agree, the FAA wants a minimum of three threads showing--NASA has done allot of testing on this subject--even the hardest / strongest bolts will stretch a little and distort..

Sure would have been nice if there were pressed in lugs on there than bolts....

Yo J
you have the napa part numbers...?
I need a set
Cheers
Joe

QUOTE (jwalters @ Mar 9 2005, 04:44 PM)

Yea I agree, the FAA wants a minimum of three threads showing--NASA has done allot of testing on this subject--even the hardest / strongest bolts will stretch a little and distort.. Sure would have been nice if there were pressed in lugs on there than bolts....

you can get hardened screw-in studs.....the portion that threads into the hub is about .750" long so plenty of threads.....a little bit of red loctite and you'll be set....these cost about $7.00 each for the BBS Motorsport units....do not confuse them with the POS regular steel units that have the hex head on the tip....

YES! let me run out to my truck and fetch--be back soon..

Here you go:

wheel bolt 318 M14-1.5x31mm

#641-2772

Thanx J
Front and rear are the same # ??
Joe
Sorry for the hyjack... got rid of my American cooky cutters, and need studs.

QUOTE (JoeSpark @ Mar 9 2005, 04:56 PM)

Thanx J Front and rear are the same # ?? Joe Sorry for the hyjack... got rid of my American cooky cutters, and need studs.

if you need studs, why bother asking for the part number for the bolts????

So how do they check the bolts (if 3 threads are supposed to be exposed) on lug bolts? I guess the 8 turns total is probably it. i will take some measurement and pics tonight.

Yea, ifn you can, count the threads in your hub, and then count the turns on the bolt necessary to reach the end hub thread, and then go 3 turns more--anymore and your golden, those bolts have to be sunk in pretty deep to hit anything behind the hub.

OOpps
Sorry misspell
Ment 318 wheel bolt ...
I am looking into the stud issue..
thanx
cheers

Joe

QUOTE (JoeSpark @ Mar 9 2005, 06:56 PM)

Thanx J Front and rear are the same # ?? Joe Sorry for the hyjack... got rid of my American cooky cutters, and need studs.

Depending on the thickness of your wheel hub I would say use the standard bolts--they go in pretty far--u may run into trouble with the bolt hitting badly rusted theads from nothing touching it in years--and then when you go to remove them for any reason, they may twist off in the hub--

A general "rule of thumb" around here is bolt protrusion = diameter of bolt.

(14mm bolt.....14mm sticking out, etc...)

QUOTE (jwalters @ Mar 9 2005, 03:54 PM)

Here you go: wheel bolt 318 M14-1.5x31mm #641-2772

Do these have the proper "seat" for whatever wheels you're using? It's absolutely vital to get the correct shape, or all the clamping force that holds the wheel on will be on just a couple of very small surfaces... The stock wheels use round or "acorn" seats, I've seen conical ones on some aftermarket wheels, and I think some may even use flat seats.

--DD

QUOTE (Mueller @ Mar 9 2005, 03:51 PM)

you can get hardened screw-in studs.....the portion that threads into the hub is about .750" long so plenty of threads.....a little bit of red loctite and you'll be set....these cost about $7.00 each for the BBS Motorsport units....do not confuse them with the POS regular steel units that have the hex head on the tip....

What advantages are there to switching to the screw-in studs?


thanks,


Sc

OK
I will order a couple today and check it out,
Napa has a easy return policy...
WBR
Joe

QUOTE (Scott Carlberg @ Mar 10 2005, 12:05 AM)

QUOTE (Mueller @ Mar 9 2005, 03:51 PM) you can get hardened screw-in studs.....the portion that threads into the hub is about .750" long so plenty of threads.....a little bit of red loctite and you'll be set....these cost about $7.00 each for the BBS Motorsport units....do not confuse them with the POS regular steel units that have the hex head on the tip.... What advantages are there to switching to the screw-in studs? thanks, Sc

...........easier to mount the wheels on the car


..........I'm running 1/2" spacers on the back and 1" spacers on the front, again, easier than the bolts


..........studs are usually better design wise and strength wise than bolts

thanks Mike.