Is that a 356 part

Lol I think its a an old school pulley..

You said you buried a 912, I didn't know if it ran in the family.

Yup thats true..

Woke up early for some reason again today so went out and got some more done. Brace out and fits as it should.. Need to work gaps a bit..Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

And my new GT oil lines.. Turned out great.Click to view attachment

Your body work looks very nice Ben.....you could make a 914 Ice Shanty to drive out onto the lake. Best, Mark
PS just spent Saturday at Sebring with the Accumoto Motorsports team, great fun.

Ben, seeing your lower turbo valve covers. Have they been machined (modified) so removal is possible for valve adjustment with engine in car. Mark

Mark sounds like fun.. Almost finished accumotos heat exchangers for the headers they gave me..

As to the valve covers I did not.. I don't plan to do much valve adjustments while in the car.. I figure I will run on test stand etc then adjust valves then install in the car and it will take many years before I need to adjust again.

Why do those butt welds look "different" to me? Any chance you are using EZ grind? I'm circling in on that same repair and hoping to poach your process to make it truly invisible. There is a spool of EZ grind sitting down at the welding shop but I haven't committed to buying it yet. Thinking I could use any little help on this one though.

Sorry not easy grind just ER70S-6 .030.. remember I have taught welding for 17 years and welded my whole professional life so its experience..

Yes, I know. But I haven't so I'm looking for anything to compensate. That said, the weld on that skin looks like it sits up a little more proud, like maybe you turned down the welder a bit? Sorry to keep pestering you but...

Your not pestering at all.. I am set at the number 2 tap on my Hobart handler with about 75 on wirespeed.. This allows the penetration side to have good fusion as it will be ground flush..

Let me know if I can help any further.. I would be happy to talk through the weld set up as well over the phone so feel free to call.

Thanks, those setting help. I've seen my welding skills improve steadily during this project but those quarters will have a long length of butt weld to make disappear. I did notice that a lot of my earlier difficulty had more to do with being too timid with the grinder than the weld. I've gone back to some of those old welds and found I had still left the weld sitting proud of the parent material. When I know those off, most of the well blends away. Still a bit of shrink lines on those, but better than I originally thought. I know I can get it close enough that a very thin skim of filler would make it vanish. But hoping for perfection here. I may have to give you a shout.

Sounds good.. Let me know if I can help.

This morning I was able to get the front fender semi mounted. I need to pull into shape yet but the hood gaps is acceptable.. Click to view attachment

The fender has shrunk a bit so I imagine I will have to pull it around allot.

Well not much progress I was in Florida for most of the week then had to replace my DD as it was plain worn out with 207000 miles on it with a new lease.. Pretty happy with thr deal as very inexpensive.. Then Friday students made the louver panels and powdercoated them to take home.. Click to view attachment

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Did do a little bit of fittment on the front fender.. Got allot of work to do there yet. Click to view attachment

Looks like it’s coming together slowly. It always seems like you find other areas to finish, but eventually the metalwork will be done and it’ll be off to paint.

Thats for sure.. I am trying to get the majore things done, welded, ground so I can epoxy prime before the humidity jumps up in spring. Then I can rework later as needed.

Cut the driverside sail off today.. Found a little rust.. Not sure if I should rebuild the ledge or cut it off as looks like a great spot to for water to sit. Click to view attachment

Once you epoxy prime, you could probably hose it down with water every day and not have a problem. My feeling is the rust really resulted from the foam trapping moisture against the metal.

Worked on exactly the same thing over the weekend. I'm rebuilding mine as it looked like that shelf would provide backing for seam sealer and help prevent crap from flying up inside the sail panel. Also, where I live, that shelf looks like a necessary mouse barrier to prevent winding up with a nest inside the roll bar. If we don't pull our DD in the garage before dusk, then at least 3 mice come in with it.

I have a mystery on mine though. There was not any of the infamous foam inside my sail panels and zero evidence those panels had ever been replaced. Given the body work on the rest of the car, it's impossible to believe someone did such a perfect repair. Did that quit putting the foam in at some point?

That is strange.. Regarding no foam for you.. My thoughts were that I going to do an oil tank in the fender along with fender liners so if it is properly painted it might work out to my benefit.. Now note that thr other side had nothing like this so was it driver side only?

I cut up a ‘75 that had foam so I think yours was one that got skipped.

That makes sense if you will be adding a tank in there. Curious about your thoughts on the purpose of those shelves. They look like the are purely intended as a filler strip to close that gap to me. On mine, the driver's side is mostly in good shape - just a bit of rust at the rear edge. The passenger side is mostly rotted off. I made a replacement piece for it but decided I didn't like it and will make another. No foam on either side of mine. Strange, but I'm not complaining.

Here's a pic of my pass side. I'm assuming this looked the same as the driver's originally.

Click to view attachment

Interesting.. My car had zero evidence of that on the passenger side.. I will sleep on it but I may omit that as it screams a bad idea..

I put the other sail on today. Gotta finish weld but fit was perfect.. Great parts.. Click to view attachment

Your not pestering at all.. I am set at the number 2 tap on my Hobart handler with about 75 on wirespeed.. This allows the penetration side to have good fusion as it will be ground flush..
[/quote]


Ben, interpreting this as “low heat” and a faster wire speed for
this gauge of metal. I’ve been playing with settings.
Sometimes it seems appropriate and some not so.
It may very well be my technique and moving too quickly.
Just taking it all in. Thanks.

[quote name='Dion' date='Feb 21 2018, 07:23 AM' post='2581631']
Your not pestering at all.. I am set at the number 2 tap on my Hobart handler with about 75 on wirespeed.. This allows the penetration side to have good fusion as it will be ground flush..
[/quote]


Ben, interpreting this as “low heat” and a faster wire speed for
this gauge of metal. I’ve been playing with settings.
Sometimes it seems appropriate and some not so.
It may very well be my technique and moving too quickly.
Just taking it all in. Thanks.
[/quote]


Wire speed is = to amps= heat .

Voltage is potential amps.

They work together much like a gear selection in the car.. Gas pedal is equal to the wire speed..

Hope that makes a bit more sense.

Was able to finish the welding on the sale today.. Now to hammer and dolly then grind flush. Also hung the door quickly. Gaps are pretty good. The front though is a bit far and from memory I remember it big so I need to address that.. Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

It looks like there won’t be much original metal left when you’re done! Should be nice and solid however with good metal everywhere. Keep going!

That is for sure..

Well nothing done this weekend as at an ice fishing derby and didn't catch a thing.. The plan for this week though is to try to do some more grinding and pin hole filling.. Gotta get this thing in primer..

Hey Ben - the angle of that photo makes it look (to me) like the door is "stretched" about 6" longer than stock. I know it is not BTW.

Ben is building the 2+2 version.

Lol.. Funny isn't it..


Yes 2+2

I spent some time today cleaning up as I was vehicle less as the spray in bedliner was going on today. Did do a little hammering on tje2 welds to reshape.. Then brazed the top of door jamb as what the factory had done on my car both sides.. Pretty easy .. Tomorrow morning schedule is grinding.. Really running out of things to weld..

Gotta do the antenna hole and a small repair on driver side fender and then back to the passenger side..

Soon I have to figure out if a small portable sand blaster will clean up a few areas that I have not figured out how to get at yet..

Anyone have experience with the small units?

Really? Your asking that question in this forum? Let the jokes begin.

We use the ~$80 harbour freight pressure blaster quite a bit. It’s needs a good bit of compressor behind it. You should do it outside. Use a hood and good respirator. #00 sand.

I have access to a small 5 gallon sized blaster.. Might try that.. I have a decent sized compressor that should work for the areas I need done..

This morning finished removing all of the braces and ground/blended/sanded. Still need to do more but if you see how I operate I try to do it in stages as to take my time.. I will next hammer straight the weld areas so I can further blendClick to view attachment

Can you talk more about hammering the welds? I know this is standard practice, but just guessing as to why. Sinking the metal down so that not as much needs to be ground off to make it flush?

Basically what you are doing is stress relieving the heat affected zone allowing the parent material to be shaped as it should be then grind the high spots of the weld so a good blend can happen.. My concern always with a blend is that the parent material can get really thin very easily and possibly crack later this is why I typically don't go flush and will use a small amount of filler..

I have the HF 40 lb. blaster and it works well. I'm using crushed glass for media. My only problem is finding a hood that doesn't cost a fortune and doesn't fog up. I just bought one on Amazon that got good reviews but I haven't tested.