Sprayed bed liner today super easy .. Went after all the seams and repair areas 1st then a second coat on everything and then ran out.. Gotta order more.. Ugh..

Turned out way better in person... Very happy with it.. Click to view attachment

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Wow! That has to feel good.

I'm assuming that is bedliner you are spraying as seam sealer. How are you liking that?

Yes.. I did put down the seam sealer from sem 1st let it cure in the regular spots then went and sprayed this over..

This stuff is stinky so it really is a summer doors open type of product..

Giant step forward.

Ben - Very excited for you! Congrats on a major milestone. As has been said before, getting any sort of even color/coat on our projects makes SUCH a difference to how it looks.
Every time I see someone take this step and then look at my build, I'm at once envious and motivated.
Great to watch your progress and thanks for the poke to get going on mine.

Thanks guys.. Still gotta wait on the quart I ordered to finish it..

This stuff still smells bad.. Wow..worse then paint IMHO.

Man, that looks really nice.
Great progress, especially considering everything else you do!

Spent the morning driving down to meet Glenn to look at his collection and to pick a previously NOS replacement right front fender that he and Garold cut off a car for me.. Thanks so much guys..

The best part it I dont think I need to bare metal this fender.. Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Notice the red primer.. Its not rust..

Starting to look like a car! You have to be getting excited to see it coming together!

Front fender tacked on .. Door was installed for fitting.. Getting closer to ready for suspension install.. Click to view attachment

I TIG welded the flare on this morning.. My opinion vs MIG is that the weld bead is just smaller so easier to shape etc. If you look back several pages you will see my son MIG welding and that was the point.

Then we worked on engine sheet metal samples..Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

Front fender is completely ground, and now a thin coat of filler.. Seam sealed. Making head way..


Onto finishing engine. Gotta fire that yet this summer for testing.

Started prepping engine compartment for paint. A few small weld repairs to do and remove the fan stand off. Takes a ton of time in this area to prep.. Click to view attachment

Are you using the relay board?

I don't have the relay board so I cut those brackets off.
Also for a /6 you need to cut the heat booster fan bracket off.

Relay board is a PITA for the oil filter and the bottom tank fitting. I made my engine harness with the correct connector, so it plugs into the main harness no board.
Booster fan won't fit with a /6.

I am undecided on relay board.. The fuel pump relay is my only concern.. Any thoughts on that? Mark what did you do for a fuel pump relay set up?

Re the booster fan yes the bracket is coming off.. I called it the fan stand off in my post.

I used the PMS 3.2 conversion harness to attach the engine harness to the chassis harness. I'm pretty sure the DME controls the fuel pump. Internally regulated alternator on the 3.2. Whatever that all means.

Ben, shouldn’t the lower lip of that reinforcement metal be welded up?

Where are you talking? Can you attach a picture?

Ben I forget what engine are you using? carbs, FI?

2.4 s spec with carbs..

Right now I'm running off of the ignition, but I just bought a early 80's VW Rabbit CIS fuel pump relay. It runs off of the tach signal, if no tach signal it will turn the pump off. Starting isn't an issue as the carbs have enough fuel in the bowls to start. Only issue would be first dry bowls start, would be easy enough to install a NO push button switch.

Relay part number 321 906 059C the one I got has a 15a fuse built right into the top of the relay.



You could do a similar thing with a generic DTDP relay and run it off the oil pressure (idiot light) switch, but it won't be as fast reacting as the Rabbit switch.

There's also an inertia switch from a Ford (IIRC), but guys say it trips every time you hit a bad bump, simple to reset.


On how I made my relay board delete engine harness go to post #150 of my engine build thread. You can get the connector from member Perry Kiehl, he also makes full conversion harnesses.
Since I'm cheap I made a male connector by hacking a female connector from an old engine harness.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...9913&st=140

I did the same thing as you on my last conversion. Relay for sure on this one.. It just seems safer.

I will probably delete the board as suggested and either make my own harness or buy one from perry..

Gotta figure the regulator wiring out as well then..

It looks like sealer is on that area now, rear suspension on the driver side the bottom of the chassis reinforcement plate.

Oh got you. I welded that up prior to sealer.. Just didn't take a picture of that.

Update

Fuel pump arrived, carb parts and distributor coming from supertec, worked on aligning sprockets on the engine, then went to time cams and discovered that the cam sprockets were a little worn so ordered new ones,

No real work on chassis as want to wrap up the engine so I can run it for some testing of products.

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Test run stand in the making.. Click to view attachment

Cams are timed, put new sprockets on though felt the ones I had were good. It just seemed the thing to do. Then had my buddy powdercoat my sons phone dials and then I wet painted to rsr look on one of my 15x8 fuchs. This was done with water masking..Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

I don't normally like the all black wheels, but that matte finish with the bare aluminum center cap sure looks good!

I thought about doing that as well..

The good news its all paint so doesn't matter cost much to change things.

Here is 1 front strut assembled and the other 3 wheels with the water mask method. Click to view attachment

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Ben, what paints did you use to achieve that look?

Don't forget some of the CIS relays also have a built in rev limit function. Learned that the hard way going down the back straight of Mid-Ohio. Still below the red-line first time out. and I would drop power traced it back to the relays I was using. In my setup one powered the coil one powered the fuel pump.

I grabbed the relays from a my hoard of VW CIS parts from my previous Scirocco collection. Yes Ben I am back to using the term Hoard. When in Rome.

Matte black powdercoated then Cerakote silver mag ceramic paint.. Turned out pretty nice..

Lol I get that..

Also gotta get you dad's info. He said it is clear glass..

Put all the rockers in today and set valve clearence.. Was about 90 here today but shop was cool..

Exciting. Just waiting on distributor and carb parts now..

Trans all cleaned. My extra trans will get a complete cosmetic and internal restoration later on.Click to view attachment

That is one light transmission it is actually floating to the ceiling.

Or you guys have some odd gravity in your parts.

Looks good Ben, I would leave it alone, but if doing any sort of painting you need to prep the Mag case for it, follow what the aircraft guys do, and you will be fine.

So far degreased, wire brushed, powerwashed, cleaned with scotch brite and brake cleaner.

Still undecided..

Firehawk AS tires mounted. Rated to 118mph which is fine for me until I decide a permanent tire wheel combo.Click to view attachment

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Thanks for the updates Ben.

Exciting.

Thanks. I am going to finish all the bed liner underneath the car tomorrow night then suspension can go in..

You are getting really-really-really close.

What a journey.

Well done.

Would the starter cranking speed be enough to trigger that relay ?,my 87 GTI has what I think is the very similar relay and has the rev-limit built in with a plain rotor,comes in around 6400,some CIS Golfs have a different setup and use a rev-limiting rotor.
The setup in my Golf has a priming function to charge the fuel accumulator and the fuel distributor, the first time you turn the key ,after that the main and tank pump run up when cranking the engine,thinking this would fill my fuel bowls but I don't know what would cause the relay to prime in a carb application.
Been looking for sometime @ a safety solution and think this setup might be the go,if only I knew more about car electrics .