I've developed a leak at the oil pressure sender. However, I have a dual sender and a hose that goes from the sender to the location where the stock oil pressure switch screws into the case.
I'm guessing I need to get a new hose. Where do I get one of these with the correct threads for the sender switch location?

I'm also going to replace my oil cooler seals while I'm at it. Is there any difference between brands of oil cooler seals? One better than another?

Off of a grease gun.

For real? No mods to it, just plug and play?

I used AA's "kit": http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Oil-Pre...PN-B150752.html

Not recommending it necessarily as it's not really a great value (it is AA after all), but it did work plug and play and I was kind of in a rush at the time to get something in place.

Oooooh man that's pricey! The braided SS does look good though.

Rubber Grease Gun Hose.
Hanging on a hook a NAPA.

Awesome, I'll pick one up today. Thanks guys!

Any word on the oil cooler seals?

http://type4store.com/products/gaskets-seals.html?p=2

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperC..._pg5.htm#item19

I'm pretty sure I bought mine from PP. But I like the detail at Type 4 stating that there are two thicknesses.

I was only curious as far as quality, but now I'm confused. When I did these on my old car, both were the same thickness. Is the T4 store indicating that you're supposed to use one of each thickness?
Anyone with the Tangerine Remote Oil Cooler Takeoff kit want to chime in as to which they used?

Also I'm surprised 914rubber doesn't make these. Unless I missed them, but I looked through the entire site.

I need the answer as well. I have the tangerine racing block off plate and was about to buy a set of seals from PP.
There is one set that is $$ and the other cheaper.
Was planning on getting one set of each.

As for the:

"Where do I get one of these with the correct threads for the sender switch location?"

I don't want to restart that argument, but there are some that believe that thread is actually metric.

I used a 10mm metric thread adapter to switch to 1/8NPT to screw my grease gun hose into.
You can see the adapter. It is the brass piece that is barely visible above the tin:


I believe this is the adapter I ordered:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productde....asp?RecID=1832

Most just thread the grease gun hose 3/8" NPT right into the case and call it good.

For some VW applications there are thick and thin seals depending on the case/cooler/upright adapter. Upper/lower most likely refers to something there. T4's use two of the thin seals. Pelicans choice is aftermarket or Genuine Porsche, same size, much different price.
I've seen grease gun hose failures enough times to never use one again. They collapse internally, completely restricting flow and indicate no pressure when there is and pressure when there isn't. Grease gun and paintball hoses were never intended to take the heat seen in engine compartments.

I went to a Brake/Hydraulic hose Shop that makes any hose any size with any fittings for $30 in 5 minutes.

That's interesting because the leak began after the first long distance trip I took with the car. 4+ hour drive, with a lot of 75mph+ sections. Longest sustained high speed driving I'd ever done with the car. It probably couldn't take the heat for that long. I did notice strange fluctuations in the readings on the oil pressure gauge during the drive - it would drop a few psi at times and then come back up. Likely the hose collapsing internally as you mentioned.

So then what's the best solution? Brake/hydraulic hose, as Bleyseng said?

I did come across that thread while searching earlier. Let's not go down that road again

Ordered that fitting.
Thanks Stu!

How's that working out? Any issues with it? Care to share the name of the shop?

One thing when using a rubber hose is don't forget you will have to ground out the sender.

Chris Foley/Tangerine Racing sells a remote-mount hose; that's what I'm running in both my cars.

1982 928 rear caliper flex line. Bought one at O Reily for about $20 and it was Ate brand. I would not use the grease gun hose. probably not made for the temp it will see in the engine bay.

Where is it on Tangerine's site? Maybe I'm blind, but I'm not finding it.

Awesome, thanks! I'll try that out.

Edit: just checked and none of the locations in my area stock it

Special order only for now, not going to be on the site this year at least.
I do have some on the shelf.

Is it stainless braided hose?
What threads are on the case end?
$$?

I bought one for my sender at a local hotrod shop, seem to remember it was much money

I just ordered a 928 rear brake line. We'll see how that does. If it fails too, then I'll get in touch with Chris.

I removed the old hose and inspected it. Looks like a grease gun hose. Oil is seeping up through the metal collars at each end. The hose itself appears deformed in a couple spots. I think these are definitely not ideal for the heat in an engine compartment, as others have mentioned.

That's part of the reason I went and sprung for the braided option at AA. Plus you don't have to ground it separately, as Mark mentioned.

I use this, from a British vendor "LMA Performance"

Click to view attachment

Might not be viable for those in the US after factoring in shipping cost .

http://www.lmaautoparts.com/products/REMOTE_T-PIECE_KIT_M10/

You can use a Paint Ball gun braided hose.

What am I missing here, its a 10x1.0 BSP thread on the case and whatever the thread you need on the other end to match your sending units. Why all this talk about grease gun hose, paint ball hoses, etc. Call your local hose shop and have them make one up with the proper fittings.

These guys can probably direct you to a dealer in your area that could make the hose for you.
http://www.brakequip.com/

If you can't find one I can supply them. You just need to let me know what fitting you need on the pressure sending unit end.

Yes, stainless braided.
1/8"NPT both ends. The end fittings are AN-NPT adapters which can be changed to Metric.
23.95, delivered.