My 914-6 conversion probably needs some sort of catch can. The previous owner has the crankcase vented to the oil tank. The vent from the tank simply has a sponge zip tied to the opening. It seems to work ok and I've never had a issue with anything but there has to be a better alternative. Something simple. Do most use a catch can, or can a small mesh filter be used? I cleaned a bit of oil residue off the motor when I was detailing the car. My guess is it came from venting into the engine compartment. Now that it looks pretty, I'd like to keep it that way. Any suggestions? Thanks.

I used an old Gatorade bottle with a few holes drill on top to relieve pressure. Works great for collecting the oil vapors and moisture.

I turned the holes in the bottle to face the air filter so any vapors escaping get burnt.

At the track I am often amazed how many can put the most redneck oil catch can on an otherwise beautiful car.

Yours above is actually nice compared to some :-)

I think it's kind of like a redneck badge of honor having a Budweiser can ziptied to your vintage racecar.....

This is the one I am going to use.

Gonna fill it with stainless steel wool.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201249093731?_trks...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

What's the part# on that gatorade bottle?

Kinda hard to read in the pic but i think it starts with GAT ...

Mine

A+ for creativity across the board. Has anyone ever puked up enough oil to catch anything? I'm tempted to stick a k&n crankcase breather on the vent opening.

Andy is a redneck......hahahaha
Not something I would say....

Absolutely!

I have to clean out the catch-can every other week and it's usually pretty full after an autocross.

I've heard worse ...

Running Gatorade here too. Andy was my inspiration.

You can see the mess around my catch bottle when it blew off before I drilled a vent hole. It can be 1/4" to 1/2" a week depending on how hard you are driving it.

I made one for my last 6 .it was a piece of 2" aluminium tubing with a bottom welded on with a fitting on top for a small k&n filter with a hose fitting on the side.. I attached it to the fan housing opposite of the coil.. It worked great..

I should make a bunch of them

I had a carbed 4 for a while that used a small air compressor water separator. Clear cylinder with a petcock on the bottom for draining. Worked great and no oily residue in engine bay.

If only the factory had put one under the battery tray...

I posted a the same thread on here recently ,some said the K&N will oil mist your engine bay,I researched and found that you need to buy a can that has the largest fitting possible to work,I bought a D1 boy racer 600ml unit with 15mm fittings,appears there not many much bigger.
I then acquired a silicone reducer to go from my PMS filler neck (24mm) to 15mm on catch can.
I haven't decided if I go to a breather in the top of the can or run a hose back to the block,the fitting is already tapped so that's an option .
I presume the case is in some point of vacuum so this should pull the separated fumes from the can ??,the tank breather works this way so all should be good.
I don't have the option to run into the intake and don't want to besides.

yea that would work well as its designed for that,these are very effective,same principle different application....right.

I vented the catch tank on my 6 back into the bottom of the air cleaner so it avoided the filter and got sucked back into the motor.

here's mine for a 4:



The added white piece on the stock filler-neck/breather-box was to allow me to attach a very large dia hose and to point towards the drivers side.

I plan on plugging mine into one of these:


But I do have a question, does anything go into the small end?
I've never seen anything on that side, is it just an air outlet?

My spark arrestor is a metal one unlike your plastic one,I can see it has had a hose on the small end @ some stage but wasn't there when I bought the engine.
The Porsche PET shows no rear view of the air cleaner so I don't know,i guess someone could chime it with this info .
At that point there is vacuum so I guess it would serve to draw off fuses after the oil mist has been contained in the catch can.

mine:

I've had no luck with the K+N on our 2.0 type 4 club racer, the oil residue exits the filter and douses the engine bay with oil. This is only on the sustained high speeds + high rpms at the track. Now I have just ducted back into my cold air filter tube, just before the large cone air filter.
Problem solved.
On my six (pictured below) I just tig welded an aluminum catch can, with a vent and drain nipple underneath. Just check it occasionally. Click to view attachment

I've got one like this, looks and works great
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mishimoto-ca...e&GID=80263

Great idea, I'd be in for one. Don't want to spend $100 for a fancy looking one. I've been searching for a cheaper alternative.

Dave

Sorry...double post.

Dave

I will look and see what I have for material.. I could probably make one for $ 50 but not. Sure what filter I would use?

Seriously guys this one is made of aluminum and was only $16 to my door... Click to view attachment

It lacks the one off cool factor of a welded piece or a drink bottle with a hole in it.

I've seen the filter for sale separately...sell without with the proper threaded hole on top. Then buyer just add the filter.

Dave

That looks perfect.....sad that the quoted shipping for sweden is $60 for a $15 part....

Decent read if you're in the market for a catch can.

https://torquepost.wordpress.com/2013/05/11...y-choose-build/

There should be lots that should ship to Sweden for cheap.

This one is only 35 shipping

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-BILLET-ALUMINU...AEP&vxp=mtr

Hard for me to search cheapest including shipping to Sweden..

The small tube on the factory air filter housing goes to a tube with a rubber fish mouth drain and just drains to the ground.