Show me your back pads! I've got the interior out to do the stiffening kit and I seem to remember some photos of people with just perlon carpet (or the like) covering the back.

Show me what you've done that DOESN'T use the standard back pad!

I have been wanting to ask the same question, thanks!

Since it's called a "firewall" for a reason, i'd probably not use perlon.

While perlon is usually rated at C-flS1 which (barely) qualifies as flame-retardant, i'm sure there are other materials out there with better ratings (B or A1/2).

Fair enough, but if Perlon is rated at "something" I imagine the existing back pad and sound deadening pad is rated at "something minus".

;-)

Not necessarily.

The press-board backing of the pad may very well have a higher radiation intensity rating than perlon directly glued to the metal.

Remember, this is not about exposure to an open flame but rather about heat absorption from the metal firewall ...

You mean like this?

I see you have some tears... I wonder if I use Dynamat to help bridge the gaps if that would help with durability and Andy's concern with fire/heat.

Dynamat with flame inducing Perlon....

...........that's nice

Did I see in another thread you did the (for lack of a better word) front and rear roll bar pads too?

Best back pad delete I have seen. Pictures don't do it justice.

I did do the whole roll bar - sides and top. So the back pad and interior of the roll bar all look the same. Unfortunately, I don't have a good pic of those handy. None of the factory pads are still in place. The only detail left to clean up(8 years in the making :-) ) is coming up with a cover for the front of the targa latch. It is open without the front pad on the top of the roll bar.

more pictures of Moveqik-Mike's interior. Clean, spacious and firewall has dynamat for sound deadening.

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I bought mine off of E-bay a couple of years ago and decided to install it last week.
First I did a dry run with the fitment and it seemed to not fit "a little big". I called the seller to re-assure me it would fit" Once I started installing I would see.

The cover is pre-cut to conform to the firewall and into the seatbelt retractor cavities and contour with the center of the firewall.
The stitching is done very well and the finished product looks really good.

I used 3M spray adhesive to tack it in place. Once you apply the adhesive just start at the top at the rear window line and start working it into the contour.
I worked it in 3 stages at time. Top Middle then bottom. I used a plastic putty blade and a hand roller to work the material in to the firewall contour. (Don't push or pull to hard)
I laid it all the way to the door opening and had to cut maybe a 1/2" to conform to the door opening; I then cut off the extra material. Then I installed the inner door seal bead, just had to widen the bead a little to cover the material.

Once you apply the 3M it will stretch and conform very easy.

I did it by myself, 2 people might be better, but I had little challenges.

You can buy a piece of material from 914rubber and do it that way as well and cheaper, but I'm happy with what I have.

Good luck. Mike

That looks nice, are those seats all the way back?