Well been doing a good amount of rust repair along with developing the 914-6 oil tanks.. I replaced the outer long on the driver side and also the inner long that I fabricated from 14gauge and bent on my brake press. Fit awesome.. I also made my own inner long chassis stiffener kit and will install the 12 piece kit that came with the car as well. ( I might make those kits as well).. So while I am in there and will be doing the six conversion has anyone done a stiffener overlay on the lower part of the fire wall from heater channel to heater channel?? Would it do anything or just wasting my time

Interior or exterior?

Thought about it quite a bit,interior,mebe 12" from the floor.
A series of crosshatched corrugations or bosses to meet the firewall's skin.
Spotweld into place,an extra 1/2" of thk.Having a press,makes for a simple operation.
Picking off the measurements from some datum,map it out.
Sketch coming.

Exterior already made the interior

The Engman kit has that. I think its a worthy piece to install

No I have that ☺ I am talking the out side of the car in the engine compartment

show us what you are doing

Is this a street or track car?
the reason I ask is all of that's a lot of weight

For a street car you really only need the Engman or similar long reinforcement, the rear suspension ear reinforcement, and if your running sticky tires maybe triangulate the ear to the firewall.

Street and we are talking about adding another 6 lbs or less if I sandwiched the firewall with internal firewall( inside the car) and the external ( think proportioning valve) .. Basically where the 914-6 mount gets welded on

Be careful. I've heard a lot of horror stories and seen pictures of guys twisting up their tubs welding in the stiffening kits.

Good point.. I will take it slow

I'm only a hobby welder/engineer, but that looks like a hell of a lot more welding than is structurally necessary.

Is it possible the big holes are actually "speed holes" to reduce weight, and were never intended to be filled with weld? Admittedly I have no personal experience with this kit, but in the absence of instructions I'd put a small weld on all corners of the braces, a few small welds along each edge at regular intervals, and a small tack somewhere on the edge of every third (or so) speed hole in areas that make sense structurally.

The overall strategy would be to minimize the amount of metal (new and old) that will be affected by welding heat, and let the structural shapes do their thing. Seems like the heat-affected zone "cuts" across the structural shapes would work against the objective of the reinforcements. My amateur $0.02 anyway.

I'd be interested in one.

Hello, I designed a torsion beam to be placed behind the seats. It will greatly improve torsion stiffness and add minimaal weight. Downside is of course that tall people will no longer fit in the car. If you want to check it out go to www.outdoor-engineering.nl it is a Google website you might have to click on the Searcy resultaten to get a picture.

Cheers Martijn

Because the metal is flat and not ribbed or strengthened it needs all these welds to retain its full strength against the chassis. The large holes that are not welded are clearance for things (Seatbelts, ect). The small holes in the picture are supposed to be welded.

That is correct and I play a welding and fabrication instructor full time . And this is what I would explain to my students as without multiple bends in a flat piece of steel you need to do a bunch of rosett welds to add strength to the structure

I will put it on the list

I'd be up for one too...also interested in seeing a picture of the panel - once you have it fabricated. Happy new year!

Tony