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worn
Well my 911 out of action has been pretty much torn down and the broken deliver studs all removed. The Mahle cylinders are like mirrors with cross hatching - I like the Nikasil. I haven't split the case but that is the very next step.

The only reason it is apart was the head studs brolken but while I am at it I want to replace everything that needs it and nothing that doesn't. So I need to find a shop. There is great guy in town but he specializes in V8s and turned it down. Any ideas? Madison WI is near Milwaukee and Chicago and then it gets to shipping perhaps. Prefer face to face.

Thanks!!
jmill
I'm going to need one out here myself. popcorn[1].gif
GeorgeRud
I'd still think shipping it to Ollie's, Competition Engineering, or another well known shop that does these heads all the time would be money well spent!
GaroldShaffer
QUOTE(GeorgeRud @ Dec 21 2015, 02:03 PM) *

I'd still think shipping it to Ollie's, Competition Engineering, or another well known shop that does these heads all the time would be money well spent!

agree.gif
wndsnd
I agree with George.

These guys did my machining. I would have liked to stay local here on the east coast for convenience, but Air Cooled Porsche work is what these guys do. They are the best. They are good to work with as well.

When you realize the expense and how important it all is for your rebuild, any inconvenience of packing it up and shipping is forgotten.

Don't plan on rushing things though, these are busy shops.

John
Series9
From a shop in Florida, I ship my 911 machine work out. It's too important to worry about shipping.

Case and crank go to Ollie's in AZ.
Cams and rockers go to Dougherty in CA.
Heads go to Anchor Atlantic in NJ.
Cylinders go to LN Engineering, if needed, but Nikasil frequently does not.
mb911
QUOTE(worn @ Dec 21 2015, 10:09 AM) *

Well my 911 out of action has been pretty much torn down and the broken deliver studs all removed. The Mahle cylinders are like mirrors with cross hatching - I like the Nikasil. I haven't split the case but that is the very next step.

The only reason it is apart was the head studs brolken but while I am at it I want to replace everything that needs it and nothing that doesn't. So I need to find a shop. There is great guy in town but he specializes in V8s and turned it down. Any ideas? Madison WI is near Milwaukee and Chicago and then it gets to shipping perhaps. Prefer face to face.

Thanks!!



I guess my question for you is what do you want machined? Having rebuilt hundreds of engines myself and 25+ 911 engines as well I have learned that there is a certain amount of internet hype that goes into a good portion of the word " machining" are we talking heads including guides, valves and seats? Are you talking machining such as boat tailing, shuffle pins, align boreing etc? ..

If your talking engine building such as measuring clearances, putting bearings, rings, timing chains, timing the cams etc then in most cases there are a bunch of guys that can do that like Chris streit at motodelta, Chris schue (spelling?) Mraz, Kelly moss however Kelly moss sends a good portion of their engines to be built by Scott at automobile associates. Supertec is outstanding and EBS will also do the work.

If your local to me I can help you do it yourself. It's really not as hard as people think.. The last engine I built 100 percent by myself was a 3.2 short stroke based off a 3.0 with 98mm pistons for my 911 turbo and it out out 400whp.. The Garrett brothers out of Michigan use do awesome work I must admit they did machine my heads for dual plug so I guess I didn't build it 100 percent my self.


I hope that helps a little you can search some of my engine builds on pelicanparts under mb911 along with others to help guide you
wndsnd
Last time I checked,

Scott at Automobile Associates in Canton, CT, sends his machining to Ollies, and uses John Dougherty for his cam work.

There are lots of good shops, talk to the owners and find one you like. There are guys that are good at heads, guys that are good with cases, guys that are good with cams and rockers, you do not have to use one shop.

Lots of guys have the ability to do it, but in my opinion, the ones that are set up for repetitive work, already have the jigs and tools to do it acurately and competitively are the ones to choose.




mb911
QUOTE(wndsnd @ Dec 21 2015, 02:14 PM) *

Last time I checked,

Scott at Automobile Associates in Canton, CT, sends his machining to Ollies, and uses John Dougherty for his cam work.

There are lots of good shops, talk to the owners and find one you like. There are guys that are good at heads, guys that are good with cases, guys that are good with cams and rockers, you do not have to use one shop.

Lots of guys have the ability to do it, but in my opinion, the ones that are set up for repetitive work, already have the jigs and tools to do it acurately and competitively are the ones to choose.



I agree. I think most everyone uses Dougherty for cams.. .. Scott maybe sending his machine work out not sure.. He was a one of my biggest clients along side of pelicanparts of course but I thought he told me he was going to be bringing machining in house
worn
As for building the engine or even into filing a boat tail, i think i can follow instructions and take measurements. I mean to try.

I think i need to replace valve guides, grind valves and seats and possibly true up the surface mating to the cylinder. Beyond me, as are the following things.

Then there is the cam. Need to know how to know if they need work.

Then i need the cylinders honed i should think, and advice on reuse of pretty good looking pistons. Have to measure ring grooves still.

I am hoping that the crank is ok and i can get by with new bearings. Wondering how best to clean the case etc.

Sounds like the motor is gonna be nationwide real soon. Hope it all comes home.

Thanks for all of the replies. I really want this sweet 911 back on the road.
mepstein
We have a machine shop in our complex and yet still send someone down once a week to our guy in wv to do our work. It's better to have someone you trust than someone close by.

We hit the case, cam towers, valve covers, ect with a steam pressure washer, clean by hand and then usually blast it again.
worn
QUOTE(mepstein @ Dec 21 2015, 04:14 PM) *

We have a machine shop in our complex and yet still send someone down once a week to our guy in wv to do our work. It's better to have someone you trust than someone close by.

We hit the case, cam towers, valve covers, ect with a steam pressure washer, clean by hand and then usually blast it again.

Yeah. I know a guy who did a fantastic job with boring my TR6 block. He just didnt think he was the right person for the Porsche job, although i once saw a bunch of stuff he was working on for an established expert in Madison. Every time that I make something new the third or fifth one comes out the way i like. Investment in experience and hardware are worth paying for. Thanks folks.
Maltese Falcon
You could always get in touch with Carl over at 928motorsports.com, he's a good customer of ours, builds monster 928 engines. He must know some good local machine shops.
In Horicon 53032
Marty
Peashooter
If you have a 2.7 with broken studs, my vote would be send it to Oliie's in Arizona. You really want to have head stud inserts installed and I'd bet it needs to be line-bored as well. They did a great job on my block.
I visited their shop later on while in the area, and I was really impressed by the cleanliness and order.
wndsnd
QUOTE(mb911 @ Dec 21 2015, 05:18 PM) *

QUOTE(wndsnd @ Dec 21 2015, 02:14 PM) *

Last time I checked,

Scott at Automobile Associates in Canton, CT, sends his machining to Ollies, and uses John Dougherty for his cam work.

There are lots of good shops, talk to the owners and find one you like. There are guys that are good at heads, guys that are good with cases, guys that are good with cams and rockers, you do not have to use one shop.

Lots of guys have the ability to do it, but in my opinion, the ones that are set up for repetitive work, already have the jigs and tools to do it acurately and competitively are the ones to choose.



I agree. I think most everyone uses Dougherty for cams.. .. Scott maybe sending his machine work out not sure.. He was a one of my biggest clients along side of pelicanparts of course but I thought he told me he was going to be bringing machining in house



Waiting on your oil tank project. I will be in need of one. Will you also offer 911 coolers modified for 914 application?
skier2.0
Ollies or CE for case savers use ARP or RaceWare studs. What engine case ? 7R?
jim912928
When I lived in Brookfield these guys worked on my 928 and 911. They work on major cars and have a stellar reputation.

MRAZ Import Automotive
3240 Gateway Rd Brookfield, WI 53045
mb911
QUOTE(wndsnd @ Dec 22 2015, 06:33 AM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Dec 21 2015, 05:18 PM) *

QUOTE(wndsnd @ Dec 21 2015, 02:14 PM) *

Last time I checked,

Scott at Automobile Associates in Canton, CT, sends his machining to Ollies, and uses John Dougherty for his cam work.

There are lots of good shops, talk to the owners and find one you like. There are guys that are good at heads, guys that are good with cases, guys that are good with cams and rockers, you do not have to use one shop.

Lots of guys have the ability to do it, but in my opinion, the ones that are set up for repetitive work, already have the jigs and tools to do it acurately and competitively are the ones to choose.



I agree. I think most everyone uses Dougherty for cams.. .. Scott maybe sending his machine work out not sure.. He was a one of my biggest clients along side of pelicanparts of course but I thought he told me he was going to be bringing machining in house



Waiting on your oil tank project. I will be in need of one. Will you also offer 911 coolers modified for 914 application?


Yes I will be.. As soon as tanks are done that will be the next project
worn
QUOTE
Waiting on your oil tank project. I will be in need of one. Will you also offer 911 coolers modified for 914 application?

I finished the tank towards the beginning of fall and it is full of oil, I started the engine and it didn't leak. I machined adaptors so that I could run AN hoses to the 911 thermostat and used a cooler placed near where I saw one on a Series 9 build. So while I have run the engine it hasn't put the wheels down yet.

I will do a thread on it cause I have lots of photos. As for selling, well I don't know if it works yet. I think I would need to get better at welding. So for now you have the original or the Patrick MS. I suspect there will be more choices in the future as new people come around.
worn
QUOTE(skier2.0 @ Dec 25 2015, 07:47 AM) *

Ollies or CE for case savers use ARP or RaceWare studs. What engine case ? 7R?


It is a 4R 1980 911SC 3.0 engine. The bearings pistons and cylinders look perfect. I mean really great. That is they look great to me. They also look great to the micrometer. 0.10 ring gap, journals and jugs have good numbers as well. Haven't pulled apart the heads.

At this point I am leaning towards magna flux of the crank and micropublishing, new rod bushings, even though they seem like new, and a valve job on the heads with new guides. Although the cross hatching is still very evident in the cylinders, I suspect I should have them honed for new rings. All new bearings and button it up.

I have a new set of Porsche steel studs. Not ARP, but have not heard of them failing. Is it worth it to add ARP bolts for the rods?

Merry Christmas!
Click to view attachment
mepstein
Rod bolts can't be reused but it's up to you to decide on stock or aftermarket.
Luke M
On my brothers 3.0 rebuild we used the factory rod bolts.
If your budget allows then get the ARP or other brand rod bolts.
I do believe there's a streach gauge you need as well.
I didn't see a need for more then the factory bolts on a street car.
Do your homework before you buy your bearings.
There's been issues with the rod bearings.
As for the head studs I used all steel Porsche studs on his 3.0.
worn
QUOTE(Luke M @ Dec 26 2015, 07:27 AM) *

On my brothers 3.0 rebuild we used the factory rod bolts.
If your budget allows then get the ARP or other brand rod bolts.
I do believe there's a streach gauge you need as well.
I didn't see a need for more then the factory bolts on a street car.
Do your homework before you buy your bearings.
There's been issues with the rod bearings.
As for the head studs I used all steel Porsche studs on his 3.0.

Thanks. Sounds like what I was planning. Gawd. Having to do homework to find quality bearing shells? OK. Any pointers? If I buy from the bird will I be safe? With bearings rings gasket sets etc - no big parts - my wish list is floating at 2 grand wacko.gif
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