this is a stumper for me I have the positive cable from the battery hooked to the big pole of the starter. From there a red wire and a light brown wire comes thru the tin (along with the backup light cable). Red one hooks to the battery cable to the big pole & the light brn one goes to the spade of the starter next to the big pole.

I have a pic of the starter hookup befor I disconnected it so I could put it back the same way. (The extra red & green wires are for a remote start button

With this I should have the necessary connection to give power to the dizzy correct?
If so, why do I show nothing from even the coil?
I gotta be missing sum'pin

.......b

I am no help.. Do you have a battery?

See?


M

What's the starter have to do with the coil?

Check the relays on the relay board. Shuffle them around and see if things start working. Does the starter kick over when you turn the key?

QUOTE (Bruce Allert @ Mar 14 2005, 11:13 PM)

I gotta be missing sum'pin

from looking at your picture, it looks like you're missing the recoil pin for the flux capacitor!

Andy

Ya...more info needed.

Is it cranking, but not starting?

Are you checking the correct side of the coil for voltage? (term. #15....I think, manual not handy. Should be at least 9Volts IIRC)

Was it working before you "F'ed" with it? If yes, why'd you "F" with it?

Could you have possibly burnt a fuse?

Did you have your lead impregnated car cover on to protect it from the EMI created by the meteor that buzzed your coastline?


Seriously.......What McMark said (including connectors), plus the fuses. I think that the voltage reg. also has something to do with the coil, but I could be wrong.

Bruce, the lage black wire at the coil goes to the + terminal at the coil. wire from condensor (green or black maybe), and the tach (black with purple stripe) go to the - terminal IIRC. Did you have the engine wiring harness off when painting the tin? If so, make sure the 12 pin connector on the relay board is not plugged in one pin off.

I'm sorry... In my haste I forgot to add that the engine cranks over like there's nothing wrong.

After thinking about it, there are those 2 or 3 red wires that are also connected to the positive battery post via the cable. I was thinking wrongly (due to Fat Tiar) that all 'lecrtical stuff began with the positive cable and that goes to the starter (that's why the picture). I thought that cuz I traced the wires from the fuse board in back and seeing that they went thru the tin to the starter I figured that must be the culprit

Now I can move to a different location of suspicion

Ya, it was woring before I fuch'd wit it & I did so cuz I changed the gaskets on the intake runners & cleaned the engine & painted the tin & did a bunch of stuff cuz... cuz... well.... "it was there" ? (dum'shitIdea)

Thanks guys for opening mine eyes.... I think

........b

The wires on the starter:

The "tan" wire is actually faded yellow. It brings the "start now" signal from the ignition switch.

The big thick cable comes from the battery. It is the main current path for powering the starter; also the main path for recharging the battery.

The red wire comes from the alternator. It is a convenient way to hook into a high-capacity way of getting the juice back into the battery.

All the electricity used by everything else in the car comes from those three red wires that are hooked up to the (+) battery clamp. And they are hooked up correctly, if you get the starter spinning at all.

If you do not get +12V on the black wire that runs to the coil (+) terminal when the key is in the "run" position, then trace that wire back to the relay board. It plugs into the 12-pin connector on the right-rear. (Don't remember which pin; check your wiring diagrams for that info.) Inside the board, it connects through to one of the pins on the 14-pin connector on the front of the board. Check that pin for +12V. Keep checking back up through the circuit until you get back to the battery...

--DD