So, the bearing in my alternator went out at the autocross this last weekend and luckly I made it home alright. I then spent all Sat. night replacing it and I must say that some junior engineer was on crack when he designed the placement on our cars. That had to have been the most frustrating work that I have done on that car in a while. You can't get to anything without removing everything, you have to take off the back cover and unhook the wiring while holding it up in the car, and all those damn cheese head bolts do not want to cooperate. Well, it is all fixed now and I am good to go...rant over.

-Britain

I don't care what enyone says, it really takes 2 people to change the alt. on our cars... it sux either way, but 2 people is doable...

QUOTE (Britain Smith @ Mar 15 2005, 11:30 AM)

rant over

took me about 4 hours (with cursing/drinking brakes) and that was with the car on a lift for easy access from underneath (really helps a lot) ...

in retrospect, i should have dropped the engine. would have been faster ....
Andy

the alt in the 74 went out a couplea weeks ago, and it really is a pain... i had to drive all the way over to the east side of town, with the top off and sun in my face, just to have the local vw shop replace it for me. even more difficult was the part where i pulled out the credit card when they were done.

~a

Kinda along the same lines, how can you tell you have a bad alternator? My car died on me constantly before it went on sabatical fall of last year. I'm talking, constantly. I could charge the battery and drive for some undetermined amount of time, but it'd still leave me stranded quite a bit. When I took the car out this year in anticipation of the tranny swap, I charged the battery again. So far, I've had no problems. But that doesn't mean it won't die on me again. Is there a way to check whether it's the alt or the battery? I'd hate to get all the way to the alt just to find out it's fine.

Jen

Multi-meter on the battery should read 12V dc or (close to that)with car not running. same test with car running and you should see 2 volts more at the battery (or close to that) if the reading is the same both tests you ae not charging the battery. 1st thing to do is swap out the voltage regulator. easy stuff 1st. Make sure the ALT light on the dash is working because the excitation voltage through the light bulb is what is needed to kick start the altenator to start generating power.

Heh, or go to Autozone and they'll check it for you for free.

QUOTE (Jenny @ Mar 15 2005, 03:00 PM)

Kinda along the same lines, how can you tell you have a bad alternator?

depends on the failure mode.

if it makes a horrible screech and then the pulley is frozen, you don't have to be The Amazing Kreskin to diagnose a failed bearing ...

I did the job many years ago, in the dark, cold, with the car on stands. Yeah, it's not fun. Took a couple of hours if I remember.

Next try replacing a broken valve spring with the motor in the car. Now that is torture.

KT

There's a "charging system troubleshooting" guide on the Bird's tech page, I believe. Written by Jim Thorusen.

The engine tin screws are the worst part of the job, IMHO. Especially the one on the front tin down underneath, the screw that faces forward. Not nearly enough room to get the correct screwdriver on it.

That one job made me infinitely grateful that I replaced all those stupid screws with Allen-head screws. The job was much easier!! Still took me several hours, though.

Oh, and you unhook the wires and thread them through to the alternator before you unbolt the alt from the fan shroud, Britain!!

--DD

I did mine two weekends ago and even though it was challenging - once I turned the key and that dam light was gone - it was worth every efin second. I took me three hours total. I got lucky though - the cheese head screw that is the hardest to get to was not there

I'm learning with this car, but found out the biggest challenge is: "patience"

The 13.8 to 14.2 V reading on a volt/ohm meter might only be triggered by grounding the coil, turning over the engine for 5,6,7 seconds, reattaching the coil wire, and THEN testing voltage immediately after starting.
Just because it's not reading 2V higher just might mean it does not need a charge. A few turns on the starter will bring it down into "i need a charge" state quickly.