Am I better off to buy a rebuilt tranny from someone here, or to take it to a local shop and have them do it?

I'm grinding when going into 1st gear, and then into reverse. Syncro?

I've NEVER TOUCHED a tranny before, so I'm not sure I want to start with the one I need to drive on. Maybe buy a decent, used one, and tinker with the other?

try adjusting you clutch then recheck. reverse does not have a syncro so it normally a sign of clutch cable adjustment.

A new clutch and all that stuff could also fix it.

I had bad grinding with the 4 cylander..

Got all the KEP parts in and I have no grinding (although some clutch slipping at past 1/2 throttle )

Andrew

First and Reverse are actually very easy to work on and can even be redone with the trans in the car if needed, although I just pull it out for simplicity. There is a great tech article about it floating around.

Of course check your basic adjustments first to ensure it isn't something simple.

This is all very good news! I'll have to learn trannys at some point, but I'd rather not do it now. My car came with a new clutch cable, throttle cable, and clutch, so maybe now it the time to do all three...while I have it on jack-stands.

thanks gang.

Due to the lack of a synchro, you can still get clash shifting into reverse even when everything is adjusted OK if you do not pause a few seconds after pushing in the clutch before selecting reverse. Allows time for the imput shaft to slow down befor engaging the gear.

I have to adjust my clutch, growing up with beetles it was relatively simple. The adjustment was made at the transmission.

In my Haynes manual it states a specification for exposed thread rod at the clutch pedal clevis, but I also see an adjustment nut at the end of the cable by the pulley wheel on the transmission.

Where do I set the clutch freeplay?

Thanks,
Dan

QUOTE (Cano @ Mar 16 2005, 08:42 AM)

Due to the lack of a synchro, you can still get clash shifting into reverse even when everything is adjusted OK if you do not pause a few seconds after pushing in the clutch before selecting reverse. Allows time for the imput shaft to slow down befor engaging the gear.

The Saab's I've been driving since I was 16 ALWAYS needed to be put into 1st gear before you go to reverse, and you need to put them into reverse to get the key out. so I'm VERY good at that practice. I'll try and adjust the clutch cable first..we'll see were that takes me.

You can also fine tune the clutch throw with the stop at the pedal board.

I needed to loosen the cable real quick and the motor was too hot to work on so I moved the pedal stop a bit and it was done.

QUOTE (solex @ Mar 16 2005, 06:11 AM)

I have to adjust my clutch, growing up with beetles it was relatively simple. The adjustment was made at the transmission. In my Haynes manual it states a specification for exposed thread rod at the clutch pedal clevis, but I also see an adjustment nut at the end of the cable by the pulley wheel on the transmission. Where do I set the clutch freeplay? Thanks, Dan

you adjust it at the tranny, and check for freeplay at the pedal. you tighten the tranny end till you can only pull the clutch pedel out 5/8 or so IIRC.

the exposed thread thing at pedal is more for making sure you have it in far enough, and for overall length

Yup, you do the adjustment at the transmission end of the cable.

The Bird site has an article about replacing the 1st gear synchro without removing the transmission.

--DD