I should be getting my parts tomorrow to replace my seals. I am going to be replacing the push rod tube seals, oil cooler seals, and valve cover seals. My main concern is the pushrod tubes. I heard that I need to make sure that each push rod goes back in the same spot, correct? Anything other things to watch out for? I have the engine out so I could clean and replace everything that was needed. This had to have been the most neglected running car I have ever seen. Why do people do that LOL

Thanks

Luke D

Be careful putting those nuts that hold the rocker shaft back on.
They strip very easily. Make sure the valve is closed for each nut
and you shouldn't have a problem.
This valve adjustment "tech artical"may help you out along the way.

yes, it's recommended that the pushrods go back into the same location. i did this procedure about a month ago, and i honestly don't remember if the rods ended up in the same locations or not. i don't know if it matters...

also, put some liquid gasket stuff on the rocker cover mating surfaces before you get the new seals on there. let it cure awhile and it'll help hold them in place when the covers get put back on. the reinstallation process has a tendency to push the gaskets around.

~a

I don't think my tubes went back to original location either. No leaks. I had some issues with that liquid gasket stuff.... lots of seepage of oil after install. I scraped it off and installed fresh gasket, again no leaks.

Good luck. This was an easy project with huge results.

The torque on the 11mm nuts that hold the rocker shafts onto the head is 10 lb-ft. Ten--very little torque. If either arm on a given rocker shaft is actually rocking (and pushing against the valve spring), you will hit 10 lb-ft before you even get the rocker stand down against the surface of the head. So do one cylinder at a time, when both rocker arms are slack. (Set the cylinder to TDC, that should work just fine.)

Since you're only doing one cylinder at a time, it's not that tough to keep the pushrods in the correct place. I'm not sure it's cricitcal, though, unless you have cut yours to specific sizes for each lifter.

On my motor, it has always been a pain to get the pushrod seated in the lifter cup. I wound up using an L-shaped Allen wrench pushed down the tube as a fulcrum so I could lever the inner end of the pushrod up far enough to slide into the lifter cup.

--DD

Lubricate the O rings with Dow-Corning 111 or similar silicone grease.

If you rotate the prt's a little when you are pressing them in it helps.

Also make sure you get the prt retaining spring in correctly. If it rubs on the push rods it will wear through them in about 2500 miles or less, I know from personal experience about twenty two years ago!

If the engine is out of the car, and you are doing all four per side at once, this is also a good time to check the torque of your head nuts.