it's not much, and it's mostly surface rust on the long, the jack post brace is worse... but the long is solid...

I'm thinking: grind/brush off all the rust and then ospho(or metal ready) and por-15

is that good enough for solid metal? or should I put a plate over it after that as an extra brace?

let me know what you think... btw, when I took the rocker off, no less than a pound of DIRT fell out!! I know to clean this spot, but evidently the last guy forgot

one more pic

those stupid little drain holes on the bottom of the jack reciever plate are useless. have a light touch when you're wire wheeling the rust off. hopefully you won't go through the existing metal. i used Mar-hyde to treat the rust on my recent trunk work, primer and paint. it's very easy to work with and a damn sight cheaper that the por-15.

k

cool, where can you get mar-hyde?

I've used ospho istead of metal ready before...

the rust is a very thin layer... I attacked it with an ice-pick(broken flat-head screwdriver) and it was solid...

That doesn't look too bad. I have certainly seen worse. I agree with Kevin. If you can't weld up new stuff, be gentle with wire wheel, treat it and paint it something fierce. Then just don't use your jack ports, ever. Matter of fact, I can think of one 914 in 18 years that I have owned over 25 of them that I have ever used the factory jack on any of them. Even my first one, I knew better.

If it were up to me, I would just remove them.

i carry a stock jack for looks and around town. over 75 miles and i lug around the small floor jack. i'd probably pull the car over and hitch home to get the floor jack if i got a flat. call around to some auto body repair supply stores. they SHOULD have some. "cheap" was relative. in a world of $6 per pack for smokes, $3 coffees, and $6 beers, it is "cheap" to me. a quart ran me about $25 but you don't use much at all when you apply it. foam brushes, roller, or spray.

k

mine looks about the same as yours. I cut off the rusted part of the jack plate and plan to clean up the rusted area and treat it. I have a new jack plate and a relative that can weld so hopefully this weekend mine will be repaired.

Edit: I still need to remove some more of the jackplate.

ok, I got the other rocker panel off today(I had trouble getting it off, 2 of the screws were rusted tight!)...

anyway, the pics above were from the drivers side, and not bad at all...

today we got to see what was below the pass. side, and I was not happy about what I saw... the other jack post is worse than the drivers side, and one small hole(small hillips screwdriver size) could be poked into the long... also, at the FRONT of long, there is(was) a plate... similar to what is under the jack post... that spot was the worst... the ENTIRE area was full of dirt, and thus very rusted, and in this area, I have a hole I can stick a finger in...

pics will follow... soon

I'll have to post pics tommorrow... I normally use my printer's card reader function... well, one printer is in the shop being worked on for splattering black all over every print, and the other is kaput... the plastic piece on the USB is broke so, I'll post pics tommorrow after I get my camera cable from work...


bottom line, I'm sure the front piece(at the least) needs to be welded, I'm going to get an angle grinder tommorrow and see how bad it is...

why do they have a cavity on the side, in the front of the pass. long?! can I grind that piece off? or does it serve a purpose?

ok, until I can show the real pics tonight, I'll post an example pic...

the circles are where I found rust, and behind them... now, the area behind these circles are rusty too... so, does that mean that #301 is rusted too? or just another piece of 346?

ok, I got 8 pics... I took after it with an angle grinder today... and you can see it better because of it...

the worst is definately confined to the small square in the front, but the back is no beauty mark either...

my question is what do I do now... I know I have to FIX it, but how....

pic 2

pic 3

pic 4

pic 5

pic 6

oops

last one:

sorry that some look like ANDY took them

I'm thinking this: I can just cut the jack posts completely off to make sure all the rust is GONE... cut thes 2 portions that are on the pass. side out completely(and there's no rust behind this) and have someone weld a new piece on that...



I don't have a 220 plug or a welder, but the car can be driven now(once I get some legalities out of the way), and I'll supply the beer and the Ribeyes to local help... I used to be "ok" with a stick welder, but that was 10 years ago, and I was never worth a damn with a wire welder...

STOP, YOU"RE SCARING ME!

i have to do the same to mine and i am afraid of what i might find.

yea, I know... the pics look worse than reality...


IF ANYONE, anywhere has these parts, send me a PM... I'm not keen on paying the $90 each for these from restoration design... just for these small spots...


alternatively, can some plain sheet metal be welded here instead of the re-man parts?

anyone? bueller? anyone?

I am just about done with the same repair. You could probably just cut off the posts and support and weld on new ones. I got my parts from Tweeks $20 for both the post and support. Not sure about the front area of the rocker. Mine were solid so I didn't mess with them. You could probably just bend some sheet metal. I fabricated all of the patches using the side of my work bench and a BFH. They came out pretty close to the original. Not concourse quality but pretty nice.

Check out my progress thread. Maybe it will give you some ideas.

Good luck!!

Jack Post Repair

QUOTE (rhcb914 @ Apr 13 2005, 10:20 AM)

I am just about done with the same repair. You could probably just cut off the posts and support and weld on new ones. I got my parts from Tweeks $20 for both the post and support. Not sure about the front area of the rocker. Mine were solid so I didn't mess with them. You could probably just bend some sheet metal. I fabricated all of the patches using the side of my work bench and a BFH. They came out pretty close to the original. Not concourse quality but pretty nice. Check out my progress thread. Maybe it will give you some ideas. Good luck!! Jack Post Repair

LOL, I was replying to your thread, while you were replying to mine!

what kind of metal did you use? thinkness?

I'm thinking about just putting a plate in, instead of putting a jack post in at all... I'll fill in the hole for it on the rocker pannels.... but I want to use the right metal for strength...

I liked your idea of spraying por15 in the long... I'll be doing that, since I'm cutting the holes anyway...

I don't care about "concourse" quality... I just want to drive it and beat the hell out of it..

I don't mean to hijack your thread but I have to ask...

Why does anyone (other than the CW types) put the jack post back on? It seems like a lot of work for something I know I would never use. Does anyone use the jack post??????

QUOTE (sgomes @ Apr 13 2005, 01:51 PM)

I don't mean to hijack your thread but I have to ask... Why does anyone (other than the CW types) put the jack post back on? It seems like a lot of work for something I know I would never use. Does anyone use the jack post??????

good Question, I'm not putting posts back on, I don't even have a stock jack... but I dunno why anyone would risk life limb and loss of car by using one... I carry a small floor jack...

i have to keep the stock jack points because my car is sooo low.... cant get a floor jack under it (especcialy with a flat)
so i have on eof those jack plate adapter tools....

QUOTE (tat2dphreak @ Apr 13 2005, 07:28 AM)

I liked your idea of spraying por15 in the long... I'll be doing that, since I'm cutting the holes anyway...

i think i saw another thread on here recently that showed before and after pics of a guy who sprayed inside his longs.

I find the jack point very handy... a very quick way to lift the whole side of the car and get quick access underneath.

The square tubing keeps things from getting squirelly as long as the jack has a secure footing.

Here I go AGAIN, making an ass of myself, sticking my foot firmly in my mouth... I'm such a pho king idiot.

But, I like the factory jack points... not for the CW but for the FUNCTION. The factory jack with a socket is very FUNCTIONAL. Lift the car, put a jack stand under there... no risk of life or limb.

Ok... I still want to learn from your experience... If you have EXPERIENCED a problem with factory jack points, PLEASE share!

QUOTE (RandyLok @ Apr 13 2005, 03:47 PM)

I find the jack point very handy... a very quick way to lift the whole side of the car and get quick access underneath. The square tubing keeps things from getting squirelly as long as the jack has a secure footing. Here I go AGAIN, making an ass of myself, sticking my foot firmly in my mouth... I'm such a pho king idiot. But, I like the factory jack points... not for the CW but for the FUNCTION. The factory jack with a socket is very FUNCTIONAL. Lift the car, put a jack stand under there... no risk of life or limb. Ok... I still want to learn from your experience... If you have EXPERIENCED a problem with factory jack points, PLEASE share!

I think the main issue is using the stock JACK with the jack post... as I understand it has a tendancy to shoot off if the ground isn't level

QUOTE (sgomes @ Apr 13 2005, 10:51 AM)

I don't mean to hijack your thread but I have to ask... Why does anyone (other than the CW types) put the jack post back on? It seems like a lot of work for something I know I would never use. Does anyone use the jack post??????

They are dangerous, if mine are at all crusty, they get cut off. I use a sizzors jack for mine. Small, won't colapse.

Yes, the stock jacks can "kick" out if you aren't careful. They don't like gravel or hills of any sorts. Not one of Porsches/VW's better designs.

As far as the stock jack.... mine recently failed on completely level ground with blocks on the tires good thing i was at a gas station that happened to have a shop (rarity these days for sure) and the mechanics were there (even rarer!) so i saved my day and got a tire back on.

Agreed, crusty jack points are crap. But I'm talking about jack points that are repaired to solid. They quickly lift the whole side of the car and are secured by the square tubing that goes deep enough to solidly secure and anchor things. I've never seen a factory jack kick out sideways. If you have actually experienced a factory jack kicking out and dropping a car while connected to a solid jack point, please share. If a scissors jack is more secure than a square tubing insert into the body, please explain and I'll be happy to simplify my frame rail!!! That would be nice! I just need to know that's from experience and not theory.

should I invest in one of these: the interior long kit from engman?

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...=ST&f=4&t=12376

or do you think just putting the patch in is good enough for a street car?