Hello,
I'm in the process of replacing my front control arm bushings with the Elephant Racing kit. Using the Haynes book it's clear that I need to remove the spanner style nuts at the bottom of the shocks. I used PB blaster, a little heat a drift and hammer and this thing is stuck. If you've done this job, what did you use to remove this nut? Obviously I don't have a spanner wrench.
Thanks,
Jack

If you are referring to the funky nuts on that hold the ball joints to the control arms, I ended up using a big pair of vise grip pliers. I've heard of others using a big ass pipe wrench also. Have fun, I know I did!

Ball joint nut is a pipe wrench.

Pin on bottom of strut, use heat and a drift.

Air hammer and a blunt bit (blunt BIT Scotty... talkin bout a BIT).

If you do have to use heat, order a ball joint ahead of time because it will be toast.

You don't need to do that to drop the arm. I would leave the ball joint on the arm and remove the strut from the ball joint. Remove the one nut and punch out the wedge bolt with a soft drift. Make sure you loosen the TB or place a jack under the arm.

Number 20

A little heat and a brass drift should do it.

Those should get replaced every time you remove them. At least, according to the factory manuals.

--DD

Thanks guys. Heading back to the project a lot more informed.
Jack

#17 just takes a ton of force... I had my son do the pulling and I made sure the wrench did not slip off by keeping force on the wrench

I must be doing something very wrong. I have done everything suggested except using an air hammer and blunt bit, suggested by Eric. I don't have an air hammer...yet. I'd like to avoid buying one.
I've used a 15" pipe wrench on the spanner nut after it was saturated with pb blaster for 24 hours. I even used a hammer on the pipe wrench. I then applied heat from a mapp torch and the pipe wrench again. Nothing. I'm prepared to replace the ball joints.
I also tried driving the bolt out of the bottom of the strut and it won't move either. I have the control arm raised about 4" inches from its relaxed point.
Is there some thing simple that I'm missing? This is a CA car that has not been hit and is not rusty.
If I had a welder (and knew how to weld) I'd weld a 36mm socket to the nut and use my air wrench.
Any other thoughts? Am I missing something obvious?
Thanks very much.
Jack

Buy the special socket.

You ARE trying to remove the bolt (Item #20) from the picture above right?

The ball joints do not have to come off of the A-Arms to replace the front bushings.
If hitting the bolt carefully with a hammer did not work, I would use a c-clamp and a socket as a spacer to push the bolt out.

Great thought. Thank you.

I bought the socket. If its in the car you can hold it to the nut with light pressure from a floor jack.

Are you talking about the large nut on the bottom (#20 in the diagram jmill attached)?
If that is the one, I would definately buy the socket meant for the job, makes it easier and less frustrating.

I tried using the special socket on my ball joint nuts but ended up going back to the big vise grip wrench. The socket kept losing grip, even with a floor jack under it.
Also, stupid question....you did take off the cotter pin and special washer, right? I'm assuming you did that because it's a pretty obvious step! I repeatedly hosed down both my ball joint nuts and the strut pin bolts with pb blaster and it took me 2-3 days to get all of them off. Those ball joint nuts are torqued to a huge value so they are TIGHT.
Persistence paid off for me, even if I pulled a bunch of muscles.....
To me the special socket does better for tightening than loosening, but that's just me.

You have been asked this a few times

Are you talking about #17 or #20 in the diagram above?
Being clear on this just might help....

And this isnt helping:


The LARGE NUT for removing the Balljoint from the A-arm is NOT #20 it is #17.

To remove the A-Arm from the car, you only need to remove BOLT #20 then the balljoint will pull out from the strut.

Once the nut (#22) is off, you need to unload the tension on the A-arm with a floor jack OR release all tension on the torsion bar and slide the bar adjuster out the back of the carrier.
Then the Bolt will come out of the strut.
Late cars had the wedge bolt so there will be no head on #20.
Early cars had a regular bolt and you will be able to see the head.
(I might have that backwards Early vs Late)

I hesitate to ask...but the nut is kind of on upside down...you are turning it the correct direction.....right????

Sorry Stu, I screwed up, I meant 17 not 20, guess I shouldn't post things before I have my coffee in the morning.

For #17 on the bottom, just cut through it with a Dremel and install a new one. Five minutes and you're done.

That's what I had to do. I use a cold chisel to split the last little bit you can't get without cutting into the arm. I did it off the car after I removed #20!!

You'll have less leverage with it off the car but you won't need it since the nut is split.

Thanks very much to all who weighed-in on this.
I was unsuccessful in removing the bolts for the ball joints...so far.
I ended up following Eric's advice and found a used air hammer with blunt bit on Craigs for $10.00. The spanner nuts came right off. I've removed the old bushings and the parts are going to be blasted tomorrow. Now I'll get back on removing the ball joints using a c clamp.
Lots of this stuff is new territory for me and that's what makes it fun and rewarding. Sometimes I'm a little timid about ripping into a perfectly good car with my limited experience but knowing that folks like all of you are there to share your knowledge is reassuring.
Jack

That air hammer and blunt bit can be used on the wedge bolt. Be careful. It'll shoot out of there. Hit it on the threaded end. No matter if the threads get mashed since you should replace it. Be aware they are like $13 a piece.

Thanks for tip John and the warning.
I resisted buying an air hammer that I would only use once. Not going to be a problem. Might be the best $10 I ever spent on a tool!
Thanks again.
Jack