Thought I would install my Turbo tie rod ends and found that one of the rack end bushings had stuck to the rack and pushed it out. ( probably during storage )

I found a rack rebuild thread by Wes V

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=95747

But it seems his rack is different than mine. his is a 75 mine is a 73 . I didn't know they changed them.

So it looks like I will have to disassemble my rack and clean up / polish the rack rod.

problem is I can't seem to find a number for the seal. Part #10 in diagram

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Also the 911 rack ( and later 914 rack ? ) has a needle bearing at the top whereas, it looks like the 73 rack has caged ball bearings top and bottom.

My rack part number is 914.347.014.00

I haven't disassembled mine yet.

Does anyone have part numbers for the bearings and the seal? are the caged rollers the same number as in the 911 rack? # 6202. and if I can't find the seal could I just go with a sealed 6202 bearing (if available) on the top and skip the #10 seal?

I put PB blaster on the stuck end bushing last night and will work on it later today.

I rebuilt the rack on my 912. Its quite easy but mark the position of the rack before disassembly. The bearing were easy to find as well as the seal they are standard size I just took them to an industrial bearing /seal supplier and they fixed me up. I went with the sealed bearings. Take it apart and you will see what you need.

Ok I got the rack disassembled and found the end bushing is really stuck on there.

I am reluctant to try heat since it will ruin the rubber on the bushing and after much searching I am unable to find a source for replacement end bushings.

It looks like this one will have to be destroyed removing it. I can then polish the rack rod.

Does anyone know of a source for the bushings? or have a good used one they would part with?

I did get the seal out with the numbers intact and have the bearing numbers now.

Good racks should be easy to find. I swapped mine out with the 911 rack that came with my front suspension. Post a WTB in the classifieds. You might even get one for the cost of shipping.

The end bushing is probably ok, I left mine alone. As you say you will probably destroy them if you try remove them and i do not believe replacements are available but I may be wrong. The cost of the bearings and seal are minimal so if you rebuild and the end bushes are bad then you haven't lost anything only time.

the problem is the bushing is frozen onto the rack rod, not inside the casting.

when the bushing is in place and held with the snap rings the rack will not move.

I saw a couple month old thread on the bird board where member said they were manufacturing replacement bushings, and posted a picture. however I don't know the name of the business. I did find an email address and sent an email today inquiring about the parts. So we will see if I get a response..

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Contact Bruce Stone. I bought a really nice used one from him and it was cheap!!

Dunk the end with th bushing into kerosene for a few days.
Then set up a bench vice adjusted just slightly larger than the rack bar, yet enough to fully support the bushing.
Hit the bar down to move the bushing.

Sounds good, I'll give it a try.....

I went down this road a month ago. None of the threads seem to be accurate for a 1970 rack. Not one part number matched up, and I wound up having to measure the seals and bearings and order ones that I thought were close.

In the end, I just picked up a reconditioned rack. It seems the seals, bearings, and bushings are some kind of industry secret because they could not be purchased commercially yet every "rebuilder" offered rebuilt racks with all these parts on them.

Super frustrating.

Dude, what do you need?
I make the pucks for Stoddard right now. You can buy them there no problem.

I would like to put together a seal kit for these, as I'm currently also working on the bellows too.

Bushings on the ends of the rack case

Well I have the #7 cap, I'll look at the #19
I assume these have the same threading, not a left and right. Same part for both?

No threading, just held in by a clip.
That is what the notch is for.

I made mine from bronze, nothing was available at the time.

They get loose and worn out, white plastic.
The seal breaks down, then dirt gets in there.

Now, if you were to manufacture a new pinion gear to reduce the throw of the whole unit, you would sell more than a few.

A good kit should include all the seals and boots, along with the two bushings at the end, and the two little bearings for the pinion gear.

I recall that the pinion gear housing changed between early and late, so if you pick late to fabricate, you will pick up the 911 market also....it's the same rack.

That would be awesome if there was a kit with all the right parts

David

Yes I can make the pinion gears. When you say reduce the throw if the unit ar you talking bout changing the pitch to make it travel further with less turning of the wheel?

Yes, exactly.
I believe it was called a short rack, but the net affect is less steering wheel turning to get the wheels to turn the same amount.

Again, same rack as the 911.
That part would sell.

Also, if you want to think about making a STOCK steering wheel spacer for a 911 there are lots of us tall people that would buy it instead of buying aftermarket wheels.

Rich

Well finished up the steering rack.

Turns out the end bushings are really NLA...

managed to save mine. put a little heat on the rack and with some more PB blaster I got them to move. then shined the rack up with some fine emery cloth on the lathe.

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Ready for the new bearings..

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and these are the bearings that are used .

FAG 16002

and the seal is a 40x28x7 single lip

SKF 564085

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if any one is thinking about doing this, it really is not a hard job. little trick getting out the lower bearing but other than that its a straight forward job.
good idea to mark the rack and housing with a dot of paint so they go back together the same way.


Done.

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Very nice

What is the little trick to removing the bearing at the bottom of the steering rack?

I have mine 90% pulled apart and would like to order new bearings and the new seal.

The only parts I haven't removed from the rack are the end bushings and the bottom bearing.

Bearing puller. It's been pressed in.

When I did this job I used a carriage bolt that just fit into the bearing, then sliding it to one side and with a piece of angle iron across the top of the steering rack, I pulled the bearing out. you will want to move it from side to side to pull the bearing out evenly..

I seem to remember I dropped a small nut next to the carriage bolt in the center of the bearing to hold it to one side

That is if you don't have a miniscule bearing puller...( I didn't )

Thanks for the replies. I ended up buying a beating puller and it worked perfectly.

I searched the bearing and seal part numbers in the previous pictures and was able to locate the necessary parts.

Thanks again!!!!!!

One of the reasons I intend to do as a service.

Mikey914 - Are you looking into making the bushing as well? I reread the thread and it sounds like you expressed some interest in that!!

Mine are in good shape and weren't leaking so I left them alone, just curious if that will be part of the kit.

I just purchased a new steering column "puck" from you and the headlight bushings. Can't wait to get those parts.

I've already made the bushings on the other thread.

I wanted to revive this thread since I am trying to install a quick ratio rack & pinion for Papa Smurf. I took apart the rack to the point where I can’t remove that #10 bushing.

How did you get it out? And if you destroyed it, what did you replace it with? Or did I miss that?

Also...similar to yours, mine is nothing like the one in the thread you referenced, it’s like yours. However, the quick ratio pinion is like the one in the other thread, and is very different than the one in my rack...and cannot be swapped.

Did the racks change at some point?

I just did this last weekend. That bushing is the oil seal and will need to be replaced regardless of how badly you tear it up. Post #18 in this thread has the size for at least one of the three versions of rack that were used. Mine was a PITA to install because the original seal had an exposed metal outer race that was seized. I used plenty of penetrating oil and some heat before it came loose. Below is the page from the factory manual with the removal procedure. In theory following that procedure should lift the pinyon along with the upper bearing and seal/bushing out of the bore. It didn't go smoothly for me but it at least popped the seal loose enough that I was able to push the pinyon back down (with some difficulty) and finally pry the seal out.

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Well...looks like it’s not going to work. The pinion in the quick rack is completely different, and the rack is shorter than mine. So...guess it’s not going to work.

Oh well, nice thought. We put a quick ratio in Huey and it’s really nice. Must have had a different/later rack

We’ve found 4 different versions of the racks. Currently have all the variations and will be doing a writ up of a rebuild I’m doing Monday. I can rebuild it for you. We also set the correct tension on the unit when Rowe rebuild them.
Many folks think it’s a simple take apart clean up and replace parts but there are a few variables that can affect the quality of the rebuild.

Hi Mark,

I have two steering racks which would need a refresh. One came out of a 71 914-4 (914.347.101.00) and the other out of my factory 6 (7820 900 138). I would need the 6 rack rebuilt for sure. When I removed the rubber boots I could see that grease was getting past the seals at both ends.

Do you sell a rebuild kit for the 6 (ZF) rack ? I checked your site but wasn't able to locate a kit.

Here's a few pics.

We do not sell the "kit" as we have found there are many variations. Bearing sizes, drag tension pucks and even the end bushings have 4 different variations after doing about 35 we still get surprised by variations. Just the other day a did a 912 one and found that even though they looked identical to others that we have done it utilized a bearing that we could not source as it was an oddball size. (fractional mm .5). No crossover to inches. Wound up manufacturing a part to utilize a bearing we could get. That and we have found all kind of DAPO "rebuilds" My favorite was the drag puck that was put back together without the sacrificial tension cover. Metal on metal. Tor the crap out of the shaft, but you couldn't tell until you took it apart. It just turned really hard. Opened it up to find lots of metal in the grease.

For something that seems pretty simple it can be more complicated.

Here's one the customer had written off as it was unable to turn and had rust inside.

Here's what we did

another
While not perfect still a great part

another

more

We were dong another baked finish, but I like the raw aluminum like factory best