I can't remove the brass cover to the float valve, won't loosen. Soaked days
with PB Blaster and Kroil. The brass yields when a wrench is on it. Very tight!
Is this a common problem?
What is the fuel pressure suppose to be?
Full Version: 914-6 Weber Carb problem
fuel pressure should be 2.5 to 3 pounds, I know some will say 4 is OK
but that is the upper limit.....
The caps and threads can become corroded. Best to use a 6 sided socket
that has been turned down on the face to remove the rounded edge, that way
giving the socket maximum contact with the head of the plug. Try working the socket both ways, tight and lose, to get it free. .
but that is the upper limit.....
The caps and threads can become corroded. Best to use a 6 sided socket
that has been turned down on the face to remove the rounded edge, that way
giving the socket maximum contact with the head of the plug. Try working the socket both ways, tight and lose, to get it free. .
tap it with a hammer helps to compress the al. sealing washer and shock the threads.... it needs to be a metal to metal rap to work the best.. ..caution....not to hard
Yes. Common.
I've had luck with an impact driver. Apply with Kroil and allow to soak - good. Difficult to convey how hard to smack it. Obviously not to the point of breaking any castings. The sudden application of torque is the key.
Another/next option; apply a measured amount of heat around the casting to help expand the alloy around the brass plug, then apply Kroil to allow it to wick into any gap between male and female threads. Careful with the heat. Not sure the material is the same as pot metal which has a low melting temp.
The aforementioned modified socket is also a good idea.
If successful, reinstall with anti-sieze.
If access to the float inlet valves is merely to adjust float level, a workaround is to remove the top casting and mechanically set the float level by bending the float arm as needed. You'll need the Weber measurement gauge or equiv. and bits to do this. Use the PMO fuel level sight gauge to confirm with engine running. However, it's a bit of a hassle for minor adjustments as the top needs to be R&R'd each time.
BTW, proper float adjustment may require removal of the float to bend the float arm properly to restore/maintain the correct geometry. Removing the float pivot pins requires another attack - threaded brass pins against pot metal.
Sherwood
I've had luck with an impact driver. Apply with Kroil and allow to soak - good. Difficult to convey how hard to smack it. Obviously not to the point of breaking any castings. The sudden application of torque is the key.
Another/next option; apply a measured amount of heat around the casting to help expand the alloy around the brass plug, then apply Kroil to allow it to wick into any gap between male and female threads. Careful with the heat. Not sure the material is the same as pot metal which has a low melting temp.
The aforementioned modified socket is also a good idea.
If successful, reinstall with anti-sieze.
If access to the float inlet valves is merely to adjust float level, a workaround is to remove the top casting and mechanically set the float level by bending the float arm as needed. You'll need the Weber measurement gauge or equiv. and bits to do this. Use the PMO fuel level sight gauge to confirm with engine running. However, it's a bit of a hassle for minor adjustments as the top needs to be R&R'd each time.
BTW, proper float adjustment may require removal of the float to bend the float arm properly to restore/maintain the correct geometry. Removing the float pivot pins requires another attack - threaded brass pins against pot metal.
Sherwood
Thanks for the advice. I've got it soaking in Kroil now!
QUOTE(xsurfer @ Jan 10 2016, 01:36 PM) 
Thanks for the advice. I've got it soaking in Kroil now!
Read about oil of wintergreen. . .
QUOTE(xsurfer @ Jan 10 2016, 12:23 PM)
I can't remove the brass cover to the float valve, won't loosen. Soaked days
with PB Blaster and Kroil. The brass yields when a wrench is on it. Very tight!
Is this a common problem?
What is the fuel pressure suppose to be?
If the other suggestions fail, first procure a new cap.
Second, get a hole saw that just fits around the perimeter of the 18mm(?) flats of the plug, ( after removing the guide drill bit )
Drill slowly and squarely.
When enough material to weaken the pressure on the soft metal seal has been removed, the cap will come off.
Unless an "expert" used some special sealant.
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