Before I start posting a bunch of pictures, I'd like to know if it's okay if I use the collective braintrust here, since it's not a Type 4 or a Porsche /6.

With all the stuff I've worked on over the years, I have yet to really tear into an engine. Did valve stem seals on a Mustang, replaced a head gasket on a Chevy, but I don't have enough knowledge yet to know what "looks okay" and what should be checked by a machinist.

The caveat is, I do not have an unlimited budget. I'm thinking of this as more of a learning opportunity and a chance to dig deeper into an engine and come out with something that's solid enough to run another 50,000 miles or so to have some fun.

Basically, my goal with this engine is to replace the head gaskets, do other top end work and anything else that makes sense, short of splitting the case. I've chosen to go this route after careful consideration and the knowledge that I could spend the same amount of money swapping this into my car as I would rebuilding a Type 4. I'd still like to do that someday, when money isn't as much of an object though.

Hope it's okay to proceed...

If you promise to post more pics in the sandbox, I guess it's ok.

So this is the beast. Came out of a 1994 SVX with 180000 miles. The car had a busted rubber fuel line within the fuel tank that had me scratching my head for a few days. After which after I diagnosed and replaced, the engine ran great, smooth as silk and revved all the way to 7k without any issues.

As mentioned in other's threads, it's quite possible to flip the intake on these engines to eliminate cutting into the 914 trunk. Eventually I'll post more pictures of how I did it, but this is it, mocked up. I won't be running A/C or power steering, so getting those out of the way made it easier to do. I was able to get it flipped without even needing phenolic spacers, even though someone makes them now. You guys who are retaining the A/C and/or PS may need them.

One for one, now you gotta hunt down some good SB pics.

I would like to see details on flipping the intake, and some basic measurements versus a type 4 motor also, especially the length.

Then I started tearing it down. The idea was that with the ugliness which was beneath the water pump (rust, calcium scales, etc) and the fact that the engine had 180000 miles, now would be the time to R&R the head gaskets, despite no real signs that they were leaking. I guess you call it piece of mind.

Click to view attachment

If it's running smooth as silk, why touch it?

Set engine to TDC for number one, find all reference marks on the Camshafts and crankshaft before you go any further.
Taking detailed pics of the marks is helpful.

Now to the guts. Here is one of the cylinders. The rest have about the same degree of honing left on them. But two of them, including this one have this weird patch down at the bottom of the cylinder. It's also got a little less "hone" and almost a smoother feel (the grey "patch" at the bottom of the picture.

My question is, given the strictly visual reading from the cylinders, does this still look good enough to reassemble? Again, not looking for another 180000 miles. However, if it meant tearing it all the way down, I'd just assume scrap it. Splitting the case on an EG is a nightmare as the case bolts are located in the water passages and there are several special tools necessary to remove and/or reinstall the wrist pins.

Did all that Rich - both heads are off and cams, lash adjusters and hardware is stored in order, in safe keeping.

Mark - again, it's a bit of a learning experience for me. Also, the age of the engine and the fact that it's going to see track use after this is why I wanted the piece of mind. I'm going to be resealing it anyway, so I figured doing the HGs was just one (well a few) more steps. I plan to use the multi-layered steel (MLS) gaskets that Cometic makes. Not cheap, but have been told they're basically bulletproof if installed correctly in Subarus. Or, if folks think using the stock-style HGs will still hold up for track use, I'd consider them.

Here's a better picture of the CRAP that was found all throughout the water jackets.

Looking good George! I see what you mean about flipping the intake...not as easy as it seems. Nice belt tensioner . Did you flip just the top piece or the fuel rails section as well?

If you have the $ I would do the stronger head gaskets since the Subaru engines are known for gasket leaks. The SVX engine isn't really a gross offender, but with the Cometic ones you will never have to change them. Seeing the buildup on yours makes me want to change mine!

Chris, instead of pulling your heads to see what crap lies beneath, next time you do your T-belt and water pump just snake a borescope up the water passages to see what may be in there. The example here looks like coolant changes were never done in a timely manner. You can also get a good quality flush kit that can eliminate A LOT of what you see in these pics. I've never heard of a head gasket leak being an issue with the EG33 so if yours in running well, I wouldn't touch it. I'm checking mine out before the install but then again, mine only has 108k on it. Practically new!

See if you can run a bore mic in the cylinders to get and idea if they're out of round. If not, you may just want to scuff them up a bit to help with the sealing without pulling material off the walls. Other than that, seal it up- you may get another 180k out of it... What's your plan for the cooling passage issue? A skinny bottle brush??

You don't want that engine in your 914. Send it to me so I can put it in my legacy outback.

.....Just don't try any funny business with that hidden British car.

We got to find you a big brake kit so you dont hit any walls!!

Call my dad in the evening when you get a chance. He looked over the pictures and wanted to go over a few things with you.

Bit of an update and I'll try to answer some questions.

I had to burn some PTO at work (they're cutting us down to 80 hours by May) so I took Wednesday off. I cleaned up the heads and took them down to the local machine shop. These guys have a great reputation, though a great deal of their work is on SBCs. The guy I talked to, Joey has done a lot of work on Subys, but primarily the 4 cylinder cars coming in from the nearby dealership. He was very helpful and was willing to listen to my plan, and answer some "noob" questions. I showed him the heads that I cleaned up, and despite some spots where steel had corroded the mating surface around the water jackets, he thought they could take a little off and they'd be fine. Also, since the valves are recessed in the lifter buckets, we discussed them R&Ring the valve stem seals. I could do it, but it'd be more work for me and I'd have to find a valve spring compressor that could do the job. I believe he quoted me $150 per head, which I think is quite reasonable. I also had done the "solvent" test on each cylinder and witnessed no leaks. I may ask for them to lap the valves since they'll have them out anyway, but otherwise I don't see the point in going crazy with a three angle valve job or anything. However, I welcome your collective input.

I'd also like you guys to check out this picture and the discoloration at the bottom of the cylinder. I've never seen anything like it before, and I'm not sure if it's cause for concern. What could this be from?

To answer some of your previous concerns -

1) I have no intentions of even touching the MG in the background till I have the money to do it right and make my dad and grandad proud. It's been passed down to me, now in boxes and since they're both departed, it holds more value to me now than it ever has before.

2) I have thought about mic'ing the cylinders, but if there were something out of spec, I'm not sure what I could do at this point. Again, splitting the case just ain't worth it, IMHO.

3) I had also considered honing the cylinders, but I have not been able to find out whether it's "acceptable" to do so with the pistons installed. I would assume not. I was under the impression that you only honed when new rings were being installed. To that point, is it worth getting a ridge reamer to remove the carbon ridge at the top of the cylinder, or leave it be? How about cleaning up the tops of the pistons?

4) Chris, I only flipped the top intake plenum. I had to move the EGR solenoid and other sensors around to allow the stock plugs to still reach them. I also had to do a little filing to the air diverter valve plenum as it was interfering with the water crossover pipe. Other than that, everything fits.. so far. I will have to reroute all the hoses and do some more bending of the hard fuel lines to make access a little easier. But it does work. A lot of this stuff could probably be eliminated with the phenolic spacers though, which of course I found out about after I had already done most of the work. Also, I plan to retain the EGR, so I'll need to work on rebending and rerouting those pipes to make it work. My sole reason? I hate check engine lights and I want this thing running with NO CODES.

Kevin, there's a guy in Seattle who already has a 914 with the EG33 swapped into it. The car is a goner, but the swap is all there from what I understand. If you're serious, I'll track down his info.

Do a three angle valve job.
Rethink that.

You cannot hone the cylinders without removing the Pistons.

It may burn oil, it may have lower compression and power than before, but in the end, who cares.
Get it built and do the swap....you can find another donked motor later on and really rebuild it right.

Try seafoam to de carbon the Pistons.
See if you can find a plastic rotary tool to remove the lip of carbon at the top of the cylinders.....something that will not take away any metal...non abrassive

Rich

Makes sense to me. If you ever even need to build another motor, that is. Those EG's are tanks.

Any special HP or TQ upgrades U plan to try,..???

Plus,.. if you had good oil pressure at idel,..and at higher RPM,..chances are crank and brg's are fine,..??

Now I think we're on the same page. I would like to do a complete teardown someday, and that day may come sooner rather than later. In hindsight, I should have just resealed the outside of the motor and got it running in the 914. But this is at least piece of mind for the HGs. It still makes more sense to rebuild one of these and do the conversion than it would to source new parts for a Type 4 and achieve at best, 1/2 the HP. If I had a pristine street car, I would gladly rebuild a Type 4. For me, this car is about having more fun and since it was a hack job when I found it, I never felt bad about modifying it.

As for the engine, it did not burn oil when I had it running, or at least no smoke was noticeable from the exhaust. I did not get to do a compression test, due to the pita it is to access spark plug holes on the SVX. But again, given the way it ran, it's got enough power for me even with the mileage on it. Actually it had great oil pressure as well given the miles.

The water jackets cleaned up nice once I took a brass brush to them. I'll flush it out once I get the heads back on.

No modifications planned to this one, other than the flipped intake. I understand they make some pretty gnarly cams for this engine and the valve geometry has room to play with, but my goal is to put it back together without leaks and running like it was when I pulled it from the SVX.

Still trying to figure out what that damn patch it at the bottom of a couple of the cylinders. From what I gather, it's a stain from either solvent or water that made it's way into the cylinders in the past.

Also, since I plan to go with Cometic MLS gaskets, I'm worried about getting the deck good and clean. The machine shop will have no problem getting the heads back to a 50 RA required finish. But I'm not sure how I'll do the same for the decks... and since the short block is still assembled, I really can't take it to them to have them do any work to it. I'm planning on finding a really good straight edge and using the equivalent 50 RA sandpaper, which to my knowledge is 1000 grit and up.

If you've got questions, take the engine in when you deliver the heads. For a small fee they may clean those up for you and run their straightedge on the decks giving you peace of mind. It'd be worth what they'd want...

That's a good idea. I could at least clean the gasket material off and have them at least give me a go/no go. Thanks!