Ok, so any day now there should be a nice box headed my way with a D-Jet injection in it. The hopes are that I can remove the Frankenstein L-jet FI and swap back like what the car came with and live happily ever after.

So today was a good day to remove all the old stuff. Check.

I figured that while in the process and while I've got it all out time to replace all the ignition parts. I did learn that not all spark plug have a screw off tip. Unfortunately I destroyed one to learn this. These were Denso. It there any particular brand that I can get that are good for these cars and have the screw off tips?

Next thing is once I got all the items off the engine I found a sensor that isn't hooked to anything next to the distributor. So what is this?



I'm sure once my goodie box arrives I'll have lots more what is this questions. Oh and any other things I should do while I'm in there?

Oil pressure sender, goes to the idiot light in the dash.
The wiring for that sender will be part of the djet harness you will be installing.

Parts are packed. Will be shipped tomorrow. I think these are the spark plugs recommended by the late Cap Crusty

Great thanks I'll get some of those plugs coming.

Reading about vacuum leaks being an issue with these cars I also pulled the oil filler box off. Yep pretty dried cork under there. So I have that coming also.

Vacuum leaks usually aren't a problem with diet if you have new hoses. Nothing like ljet. The hoses on this car were pretty bad and it still ran fine. I think vacuum leaks tend to make the idle run high. - I'm no expert!
I did include the oil filler box.

Hey Mikesjunk,

I also purchased my complete FI system from mepstein.
You are in good hands.

I went from carbs to L-Jetronic ( 1975)

Please let me know if you are looking to sell your L-jet components.

I am looking for Air Flow Meter and Wire Harness to keep as back up.

Thanks

Ok so this weekend started off like Christmas. A big box of goodies arrived. Plus some new parts I've been getting.



While I have pretty much every thing off the top of the motor I thought I'd clean up the hell hole. So I wire brushed it and hit it with some rust conversion. It's not as bad as some I've seen but it will get there in time. Hopefully this will slow it down a bit.



I'm still waiting on some parts to begin the task of putting it back together so I had some time open. Bead blasted the intake tubes and gave them a coat of Eastwoods Alumablast. New seals on injectors.



So now to figure out the puzzle. I have some parts diagrams and some overview pictures that help get the big pieces of this puzzle figured out but now looking for help with the smaller pieces. I'm sure I'll have lots of these questions as I piece this together.

So here's the temperature sensor. It came loosely attached to this bolt and I can see the witness mark on the bracket. So if this is the side it belongs on then this is the direction. But it doesn't look right. If it belongs on the other side it's a little more crowded. So some pointers or a picture of yours would be appreciated.

Also in this photo you can see the engine ground prongs. Since mine had the L-jet items I also had a similar prong set up on the far left (missing bolt) in this photo. Which is where all my grounds were hooked to. Do these have both or just one?

One ground plug, passenger side, rear bolt.
Wiring harness will lay down that way, you will see what I mean.

Don't try to straighten the wiring harness, it was baked into shape, and it is right.
Lay if from the relay board, across the rear of the motor, then under the intake runners on the passenger side, heading forward.

You will see that all the wires fit perfectly that way.

Rich

I hope you will verify function of every component before you bolt it on. Now is the time to do it.

Yes, found an article with some tests for the D-Jet components so I'll run through these. I will also need to pin out the harness to make sure I get the injectors on the right ones. I think most the other connectors should fall where they belong and have the unique connectors. But I'll put the label maker to work again.

As for the added questions for the puzzle. Any pics of the ECU in the hell hole as for how it's mounted would be helpful.

Not great pics but hears what I have. I'm pretty sure I sent you the brackets. It should bolt right in. And what rich said about laying out the harness and attaching connectors is right. Don't overthink it, just start plugging things in. It sort of fits how it fits. Do the electric first then the hoses 2nd. It should fire up when your done. It ran fine just before I tore it down.

Yep, got the brackets and the pic helped so I have that figured out. Pinned out the harness and have it all labeled. So I roughly laid it out in the engine bay. This helped to solve the temp sensor location. Based on the wiring it looks like it belongs on the front bolt. Reaches the harness and looks more right. So progress forward and the puzzle getting solved.

Now new questions. There is a wire with a spade terminal coming from the aux air valve. I don't see where this goes. (see pic red wire on rag)

Also with the L-jet I had a wire from ignition #50 (or the starter solenoid) to the dual relay. Does this belong anywhere now?

And then for stabbing the dist. In my world of V8's with number one plug off and rotate until it blows your finger off then line up timing marks = TDC on compression stroke. So how do these work? I have it on the timing mark. But the rotor ended up about 180 from where I expected it(see pic). I'm thinking with the way the dist engages the gear they can't be 180 out.

And I didn't see anything to hook to oil pressure sensor in D-Jet harness.

Again, once you lay the harness in you will see which injectors go to what wires

The AAR's red wire connects to a wire in the ignition wiring harness.

The extra wife on the starter circuit is not used by D-jet.

The "manifold boots" (the big hoses from the intake runner pipes to the plenum) are smaller than the 1.8/2.0 ones, and were NLA not long ago. I don't know if they still are or not. Mikey might have them available, or you might be able to find (radiator?) hose of the appropriate diameter to use.

--DD

I'm pretty sure the manifold boots I sent are still good. If not, I can probably dig up some more.

I threw some extra core ecu harnesses' in the box but the one attached to the ecu was working fine. I just figured you could keep some extras for spares if you eventually want or need a rebuilt harness.

Thanks for this lead. I went out to the regular harness diagrams and found both the AAR and the oil pressure sensor. So this explains the two wires in my original loop that were cut off. Check off two more pieces of the puzzle.

I'm going to try to plot the wiring diagram out on 24 x36 today at work. Old eyes make for trying to follow the wires a pain.

mepstein, yes the boots looked pretty good so we'll see how they work.

Back to the grind todays so won't be much activity until the weekend.

In this picture, you can see the sensor for the cold-start injector (it's the sensor that's under your intake temp sensor, bolted to the case). Unfortunately, the sensor is mounted in the wrong place. It should be farther forward, under the front of the intake plenum (almost directly under the cold-start injector). System-wise, it doesn't make much difference where the sensor is mounted, but your wiring harness might not reach that far back. The sensor goes on a through-bolt by itself.

So today at work I now have a nice 24 X 36 wiring diagram from the plotter. I can see. I can see.

My last box showed up with the plugs and oil filler gasket so should have most of what I need less any vacuum hose I don't happen to have.

So lastly any comments on my rotor position question above? As with my V8s once the distributor is stabbed you then just point it to a wire on the cap and call it #1 and order from there so I'm guessing I can do the same here.

Supposed to warm up into the 40s this weekend so won't have to heat the shop so much to hide out there this weekend.

So I only get today to work on the car this weekend as my daughter has a soccer camp out of town tomorrow. But I've made some pretty good progress. I'm stopping inside to look for vacuum hose routings as that's about what I'm down to. Well at least to fire it up. There's still a large list of todos once it's running.

I did answer my own distributor question and it was 180 off. I just applied my other auto knowledge and pulled the #1, turned it over until I felt compression, then lined up the mark. Rotor is pointing where I expected it so all seems to be good now.

I do have a question of the intake tube hoses. I've seen some with clamps and some without clamps. What is correct?

'Correct' is only that they do not leak, which would suck in 'free air' in to the intake. Factory original have no clamps, but as they age they loosen up and some will clamp them as a fix. I think some of the aftermarket hoses come with clamps. Clamps don't hurt.

It's Alive! It's Alive!

So got the vacuum lines all plumbed. Hot wired the fuel pump. Had a couple hose clamps that needed an extra turn. Flipped the key and bam it starts and runs.

A video for your viewing pleasure.

Frankenstein Running


So while it runs its running rough. So I need to set the timing and then go from there. But I'm much more excited about troubleshooting something that runs but not well than something that wouldn't run.

Fuel pump is at the top, after timing, as it's not getting any voltage. In the video you can see the voltmeter that is hooked to the wires that run to the pump. 0 volts at all times. I have a hot wire running to the pump for now. So going to get out my nice 24x36 wired diagrams and start debugging that issue.

Great its a big steep to get it running eh,do I here the sound of air leaks?...kind of a whistling noise,start off buy checking your bolts on the inlet manifold runners,these can suck air if loose....don't overtighten them though.
Otherwise a good tune up with new ignition parts and a valve set will have it cranking.
Have you checked f/pump relay and wiring to it,presume you are running a jumper on the relay or just straight from the battery? don't know.
Too me first engine starts are always great,makes all the other stuff look easy

Another 914 restored to original FI! You'll find it to be a reliable and effecient fuel system.

[/quote]


Great its a big steep to get it running eh,do I here the sound of air leaks?...kind of a whistling noise,start off buy checking your bolts on the inlet manifold runners,these can suck air if loose....don't overtighten them though.
Otherwise a good tune up with new ignition parts and a valve set will have it cranking.
Have you checked f/pump relay and wiring to it,presume you are running a jumper on the relay or just straight from the battery? don't know.
Too me first engine starts are always great,makes all the other stuff look easy
[/quote]

All new intake gaskets, injector seals, hoses, etc. So I should be good there. The question above is for the intake tube hoses. I think I might look for some oetiker type clamps for these as that would look cleaner than just worm gear.

And the shop is closed up and nice and toasty so I didn't want to carbon monoxide myself so I didn't run it much yet.

Jumper for fuel pump is straight from battery so I've not even started looking into this one yet.

Probably going to be next weekend until I can get back to it. But then I can study up on timing, dwell, searching for clamps, etc. in preparation.

[quote name='mikesjunk' date='Jan 24 2016, 03:44 PM' post='2293397']
[/quote]


Great its a big steep to get it running eh,do I here the sound of air leaks?...kind of a whistling noise,start off buy checking your bolts on the inlet manifold runners,these can suck air if loose....don't overtighten them though.
Otherwise a good tune up with new ignition parts and a valve set will have it cranking.
Have you checked f/pump relay and wiring to it,presume you are running a jumper on the relay or just straight from the battery? don't know.
Too me first engine starts are always great,makes all the other stuff look easy
[/quote]

All new intake gaskets, injector seals, hoses, etc. So I should be good there. The question above is for the intake tube hoses. I think I might look for some oetiker type clamps for these as that would look cleaner than just worm gear.

And the shop is closed up and nice and toasty so I didn't want to carbon monoxide myself so I didn't run it much yet.


Good move on the limited garage running,not nice,can be a good headache or worse,did you replace the cloth covered intake runner hoses?,they tend to dry out and split,new ones require no hose clamps as the engine expands as it
heats up.
Work on your tune up and the rest is fine tuning ,really,well done.