While trying to track down a lean condition and adjust the acc pump, I also decided to check the timing. I think in doing so somehow I shorted out the pertronix ignition. While setting the timing, I noticed the timing flash became erratic, the engine started to stumble, wouldn't run at idle.

Would a bad acc pump setting (Dellorto DRLA)keep the car from starting and running? I wouldn't think so, I just set it (turned in) for a bigger squirt because at medium or high rpms, when coming off throttle and then LIGHT back on, the engine would go very lean unless I got deeper in the throttle. My goal was to give a bit more squirt so light throttle gave more gas.

Still need to verify it is the ign nodule. All connections are solid, and the spark was erratic before it died. Id definately not fuel related, at least a supply.

Is a pertronix Billet Plug and Play Distributor with an ignitor II, I'm thinking something I did hooking p the timing light shorted the module out. Before this it was solid as a rock and running strong except for the slight lean condition. Just cranks and cranks not even a kick.

Any ideas?

Put some crudy ole points in to see if it works? Good to have a spare set in car anyway.

Once you get it running try larger accelerator pumps. On the other hand how do u know it's lean ,cause of the stumble. That may actually be from too much fuel as u transition from idles to main. Best investment I made wAs purchasing innovative lm2 . This way I could read exactly what was happening.

I'm running a PLX wideband AFM. It was definitely going lean. When you say larger pumps, do you mean the jets or pump/diaphragm?

Well, as the Panthers game was a blow out, I decided to head back to the garage. Was able to do a few things.

I had the neighbor kid crank the motor to confirm no spark he's probably still grinning lol. Confirmed good supply voltage to coil/module, so I ordered a new Ignitor II module from CIP. could be coil, but unlikely.

I also pulled all the plugs, and all look great as far as color (TAN/BROWN) with the exception of #1 which was a bit sooty showing rich mixture. What is interesting is this cyl also pops when first starting. Will swap the wires with # 2 to see if the issue is jetting or plug/plug wire.

Not sure what I did to kill the module but possibly hooking the dwell lead on the timing light to the coil is the only thing I can think of other than a physical mechanical wire break. Will see how this goes. Wanted to upgrade to an MSD dizzy & box but need to let the budget recover....

I returned the accel pump to its prior setting (5 threads showing on shaft, stock was 3) and am looking at ordering bigger pump jets which makes sense to me.

Should I go 55's or 60s? The issue is a lean condition, slight hesitation and AFM goes to 17 for 1-2 seconds or I get deeper in the throttle. The issue is only with slight throttle increase, particularly when returning from an 'off throttle' situation. In other words, 3rd gear rev to say 4000-4500 let foot off gas to shift or come back on throttle. If I go heavy on the gas, no issues, AFM ranges 12-14. If I apply very slight throttle I get a super lean condition. Cruising, idle full throttle, normal operation is fine, it is just the light throttle. I played with the acc pump settings, but still had the problem, that is why I decided to recheck the timing.....

I'm also going to order the single banjo for carb fuel supply. Currently have the double on one side and single on other. At initial start or priming fuel, it takes 3-43 seconds for fuel to fill passenger side. I want to run the fuel line to a T with equal length lines to each carb.

Try some points as a test setup. You should have them on hand anyway, just to make sure your Pertronix never goes TU again. (Proactive use of Murphy's Law.)

--DD

Thanks Dave,

Unfortunately, I am using one of those pertronix billet plug and play distributors. I've ordered a new module, will swap it out & see what happens. Long term would like to move to a stock style distributor with an MSD ignition and control unit, but $$ this was an easy plug & play (pardon the pun) option.

You may want to go with McMarks trigger wheel setup and remove the distributor all together. it's a cool setup that can use a fully digital ignition.

Got the pertronix unit tonight, changed out the module and yeah, you guessed it.... NO dice. So start from scratch tomorrow. Is definitely something I did when adjusting the accel pumps and checking the timing. Other than the slight lean condition, it was running great then nada.....

OK, so this morning, I go out and start from scratch.

1. Confirm fuel pump works and that both carbs are getting fuel, also checked the fuel filter in the banjo fitting, all is well.

2. Confirm TDC and timing is right on.

3. Confirm spark - Has spark, but is a weak yellow, not sharp and blue/white. Checked that the main lead from the coil is good.

The car was running great, I was attempting to correct a very slight lean condition during light throttle input.

Here is what I did.

1. Adjusted the accel pumps to give a bigger squirt. Have decided I need bigger jets not bigger squirt as the issue is NOT on a large pedal movement, just th every slight when coming off throttle condition.

2. Reset the timing - I am using a innovate with built in advance control. This has the typical HT lead, a pos and neg connection as well as a dwell clip to be hooked to neg side of the coil. Initially, I hooked the lead to the #2 cyl, and got no where near the mark. After a few minuted I figured out that I had done, and corrected. While setting the timing, I noticed there was a slight stumble and inconsistency in the flashing of the timing light. I set the timing to 27 BTDC and went for a drive.

After about 2 blocks, things started getting bad, stumble, and barely ran, turned around got home, car died as I pulled in the garage. Hasn't started since. WHen I crank it, it just catches a bit, and an occasional backfire.

I'm thinking now that either the coil went bad (weak/inconsistent spark) or I did something to the carbs while adjusting the accel pump..... I think this is unlikely, but cant imagine what else it could be....... If I had no spark, I'd think the cap or rotor crapped the bed, but this is unlikely. The coil is a .3 ohm Pertronix, sounds like it is oil filled. It was laid on its side. Looking up the specs, is supposed to be a .6 ohm.

Could I have damaged the accel pump diaphragm by tightening too much? It was only 3-4 turns in.

Would appreciate any thoughts.

Update - She lives...... It was the coil. Installed a New coil, and it fired right up. Why a new coil would burn out in 1000 miles is beyond me, but it is up and running. Timing is reset and just got back from an hour drive. I was running the coil for an ignitor 1 series (3 ohm) and replaced it with one made for the Ignitor 2 (.6 ohms) . I can see how the lower resistance is better matched to the ignitor 2 module, and higher voltage for spark and driveability, but not to burn out the coil.

The only thing I can assume is that it was a defective coil, or being oil filled and laying on its side it burnt out. The timing of the crap out is suspect, but I cant see hooking the dwell lead of the timing light to the - side of the coil shorting it out.

The Pertronix unit cost me under $150 for the distributor and coil, and was a temporary low cost 'plug and play' distributor/coil/wire option to get me driving. I planned to upgrade to something better like the system Tangerine sells later. I'll stick and hold for now, but not feeling warm and fuzzy at this point.

Sounds like a bad coil from the start,I went to pertronix II cause its a step up from the older system,seems the coils have to match whatever system you use,I also found out that my solid core leads couldn't be used so went to Clewitt Engineering ones,the supplier Pelican had no mention of this on their site when I ordered.
What leads are you running?
I'am also surprised it did burn the coil as you mentioned.
Besides all this it must be good to have it running right again

Is the new coil one of the epoxy filled as opposed to the ones with oil? Glad you got it worked out.

When doing the build, I bought the Ignitor plug & play billet distributor, coil and wires all together from a well known vendor, and after the initial bid (bought a bunch of stuff) upgraded to the ignitor 2 so I wouldn't have to worry about leaving the key on. I guess the coil wasn't changed out. The wires are the proper one. I bought it almost 3 years ago, and back then I literally knew NOTHING about these cars, engines, etc. It was recommended as a good system and was a great price.

The original stock dizzy was completely shot as was the coil, split and leaking, Becaues I was doing a TOTAL restore from the ground up, I went for cheap and easy, and figured I could update over the years. It performs VERY well, hopefully this wont happen again.

I think I've said this before but I would NOT recommend the Pertronix Plug & Play Billet Distributor. It works well, but requires modification to the cooling tin. When I change it out, I want to go to a stock sized distributor, and cap, but do want to stick with modern electronics, not points. We will see. Budget needs to recover first and I still have to sort out a few things and get the carpet for the trunk area.

The replacement coil is oil as well, but is a .6 ohm as opposed to 3. I plan to change the whole thing out eventually. I was going to save the $ for the system on Tangerine Racing's site, but it looks like it is no longer available, so will have to do some research. Still MANY things to do before I start replacing functioning parts....

But on the bright side, I got to look at my plugs, reapply the copper anti seize, finally put dielectric grease on the boots/plugs (didn't have any when I assembled) I think I pulled the plugs out a total of 3 times, and can do it pretty quick now, except for #4... seems to be at a funny angle.....

Went for a 2 hour drive after church, car runs strong and is very pleasant to drive sedately. Engine is smooth, responsive and has decent low end torque.

Save up for a Mallory. Do you still have the Ljet distributor from the E f.i. System?

I do, though it needs to be rebuilt.